my earliest meaningful memory of pizza is of waiting in line with my mother at papa murphy’s take and bake, bogo coupon in hand, ordering two supreme pizzas. then, there was the costco food stand. our family of 4 would pile into the car, do our shopping, walk out with the largest supreme pizza available, and eat the leftovers over the next few days.
if there’s one thing my mother believed in, it was value. getting anything short of whatever gave you the most amount of toppings was unthinkable. and thus, i was raised on a string of supreme pizzas.
then, the singular experience at 17 that redefined pizza for me: a classic margherita from punch pizza.
for one, it was a topping-less pizza. i remember it coming out, the bare cheese staring back at me, bits of tomato sauce peeking through, naked, like it forgot to put its clothes on.
second, we each got our own individual pizza, as if one entire pizza was an acceptable serving size my parents conveniently forgot to mention to me, a young susceptible mind and a very hungry almost adult.
but most importantly, it was nothing like i had tasted before. the thin base, the wood fired flavor, the satisfying chew of the crust. it was hard for me to believe that we lived in a world where the pizza i knew and loved could coexist with this new pizza i didn’t know and quickly became infatuated with.
i’ve had way more pizza memories than i’d like to admit over this past decade of pizza discovery and re-discovery. pizza seems to hold the constant of re-inventing itself for me just as i keep re-inventing myself.
my newest favorite way to eat pizza is to make a big batch of dough, invite a small group of friends over, and make a couple of pizzas together while we catch up. it’s as collaborative as it is creative, as easy as it is fast, as humble as it is impressive.
i hope these will soon become your favorite pizza memories too.
notes
i have a stiff starter that’s 80% hydration. please adjust amount of water in final dough to account for your starter’s hydration.
we might not get to gather in groups again for a while, but luckily this dough keeps well for a few days in the fridge. in fact, this dough needs a long cold proof. you’ll find it becomes easier to work with and the flavors become more complex the longer it’s been in the fridge. it bakes up quick enough to make for a reasonably achievable weekday work from home lunch.
pizza like this does its best baking at very high temps. unfortunately most home ovens don’t go as high as commercial ones. just crank it to as high as it will go, and make sure your oven is clean. i may or may not have set off my smoke detector at least 5 times over the course of 3 bakes.
this recipe makes enough dough for 3 – 12″ skillet-sized pizzas or 4 – 9″ skill-sized pizzas. scale up or down as needed. i can pretty easily eat an entire one of these.
this recipe is just for the crust. some toppings inspiration:
- du’s: mozz, caramelized onions, roasted garlic, spinach. to prevent burnt ends, put the caramelized onions on post bake or hide beneath spinach. drizzle with honey & chili flakes right before serving.
- margherita: tomato sauce & mozz. put basil on right before serving.
- tie dye: ricotta & mozz, tomato sauce & pesto
- shakshuka: tomato sauce, egg, mozz, feta. top with pepper and arugula post bake
baker’s percentage & basic timetable
the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.
ingredient | baker’s percentage |
all purpose flour | 100% |
water | 70% |
unfed levain (discard) | 20% |
step | time |
autolyse | 30 – 60 min |
bulk rise | 9 hours |
folds | 2 folds |
cold proof | 12 – 72 hours |
bake | 15 – 20 min |
sourdough discard pizza
formula
- 400 g king arthur all purpose flour
- 280 g water @ 90-95°F
- 80 g sourdough starter discard
- 10 g sea salt
- anything you want on a pizza!
method
- in a medium to large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30-60 minutes.
- 8:45 am: mix
- sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
- then, measure out discard starter (room temp or from fridge), and add to bowl. mix, alternating with pincer method and stretch and fold, until well incorporated, for about 6 minutes.
- this dough needs a bulk rise of about 8-9 hours, until the dough is doubled and gaseous, with 2 stretch and folds in the first 2 hours spaced about 30-45 min apart.
- after your last fold, lightly coat dough with olive oil to prevent sticking.
- generously sprinkle flour onto a table and your hands. gently turn your dough out onto your working surface into a somewhat even shape.
- using a bench knife, divide dough into equal sections of about 250 g each for a 3 pizzas in a 12" skillet, or about 200 g each for 4 pizzas in a 9".
- shape into tight dough balls using stretch and fold method. flip over onto its seam and drag ever so slightly on an unfloured surface to seal. repeat with each dough round.
- place the dough balls on a lightly floured baking sheet or container, allowing for some room to expand. lightly oil the tops, then cover. i use aluminum foil (its recyclable in nyc!) for a baking sheet or just a tupperware cover.
- leave in fridge overnight or for at least 8 hours, up to 3 days.
- preheat oven to 525°F or as high as it will go. put cast iron skillet inside oven and heat for 30 min. if you have a finicky smoke detector like i do, watch out.
- it usually takes a full 30 minutes for my ancient brooklyn oven to pre-heat so i usually just leave my skillet in for an hour.
- remove dough from fridge.
- on a generously floured surface, stretch your dough. gently punch down the center, leaving a thin rim (about ½" – 1") for the crust. flip over and repeat.
- i also like to pick up the round, letting the dough dangle vertically, and gently rotate, letting gravity help me stretch and create the final shape.
- continue doing these two steps until you get your desired thin-ness. you want it thin, without holes. no worries if holes do appear though — you can just patch 'em.
- have all your pizza toppings ready to go next to your stove.
- remove the now piping hot cast iron skillet from oven, and place on a stove burner at high heat.
- carefully, with very floured hands, transfer your pizza crust onto the cast iron skillet. gently stretch if needed, but i find that to be very difficult at this stage.
- working quickly, top your pizza.
- at its simplest: spoon some tomato sauce and arrange some mozz slices. drizzle olive oil and lightly sprinkle sea salt over the top.
- place skillet back into oven for about 15 minutes, or until cheese is bubbly and crust turns golden brown. check after 12 minutes and keep an eye on it to prevent burning.
- let cool for a minute or two before transferring to a cutting board. slice and serve immediately with your favorite italian wine (chianti classico perhaps?).
- eat a slice with people you love even more than you love pizza.
Have you ever tried freezing portions of the dough?
I haven’t! Would be curious how it affected taste and texture.