a gluten-forward food diary

Tag: sourdough

pumpkin sourdough

pumpkin sourdough

a post-vaccine life motto i’ve adopted: seek more opportunities to turn ordinary moments into special ones.

i buy all the flowers at the farmers market stand as it closes and cover every surface of my apartment with them. i lug bushels of apples home to make apple crisp in batches, dropping in on my friends on a random tuesday for a special delivery. i thrift a red dress that makes me feel like the 💃🏻 emoji, muster all the main-character-energy i can, and stroll around nyc in it without a so-called occasion.

i find myself delighting in the ability to infuse this everyday magic into the familiar, worn grooves of routine, in a way i have never felt before.

there is something that feels so fun, so dramatic, so extra about decorative sourdough.

unlike a cake, bread isn’t often thought of as pretty. maybe that’s why i’m even more appreciative of those who have made sourdough an art.

it’s decorative gourd season y’all. let’s make sourdough pumpkins!

notes

i’ve wanted to try this pumpkin shaping ever since i saw it on my instagram feed last year.

my variations:

  • added a dash of turmeric for additional color in the dough, and subtle flavor
  • saved and dried a butternut squash nub to top the final loaf for additional flourish
  • included actual pumpkin puree during the autolyse for the full pumpkin effect

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
bread flour70%
whole wheat flour15%
all purpose flour15%
water72%
salt2.5%
levain24%
pumpkin20%
turmeric & spices0.75%

steptime
levain build6 hours
bulk rise8 hours
folds4-5 folds
cold proof12 – 14 hours
bake45 minutes

pumpkin sourdough

a decorative sourdough for all your fall feels. tastes like pumpkin soup in bread form, looks like a pumpkin.

formula

levain build
  • 15 g unfed levain
  • 15 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 60 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 60 g water @ 85°F
dough formula
  • 280 g king arthur bread flour
  • 60 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 60 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 1 tsp turmeric powder
  • 0.5 tsp ginger or garam masala powder (optional)
  • 288 g water @ 95°F
  • 80 g pumpkin puree
  • 10 g sea salt
  • 96 g ripe levain
special equipment
  • 96" baker's twine
  • neutral oil
  • scissors
  • butternut squash top stub, dried & baked

method

7 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
12 pm: autolyse
  • in a large bowl, mix all flours, turmeric powder, and ginger powder together.
  • in another bowl, mix the pumpkin puree with the water. stir well so pumpkin puree is evenly distributed in the liquid mixture. note: you want the resulting temperature of the liquid to be about 93°F. i gradually added water to my pumpkin puree until i reached that temperature.
  • slowly add the liquid mixture into the flour mixture, mixing with a rubber spatula. make sure to incorporate the liquid into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated.
  • let sit, covered, for 60 minutes.
1 pm: bulk fermentation
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times. then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix, alternating between using the rubaud and pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes.
  • let dough rise at room temp until it is about 1.5x in size and appears gaseous, about 8 hours in the fall.
  • this dough needs 4-5 sets of coil folds, spaced 45 min apart, starting at the beginning.
  • sample schedule:
    – 1:45 pm fold #1
    – 2:30 pm fold #2
    – 3:15 fold #3
    – 4 pm fold #4
9 pm: shape
  • i like to shape these as a round boule.
  • on a generously floured surface, gently guide dough onto the table.
  • first tug and fold the dough lightly on itself in each direction: top, left, right, bottom, like you're folding up paper.
  • then, repeat to create a more tightly formed
9:05 pm: proof
  • generously flour an lined round bannetone. flip the dough over with a bench knife, and gently transfer the dough, seasm side up, into the bannetone.
  • if the seam has come undone, stitch it back together.
  • lightly flour the top of the dough.
  • place bannetone inside of a plastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 12 – 14 hours.
[next morning] 10 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
10:50 am: shaping part ii
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • cut 4 pieces of baker's twine, each 24" in length. dip or cover each piece in vegetable oil. remove excess oil with fingers.
  • while the dough is still in the bannetone, lay each piece of twine on top across the center, so that the strings create an asterick shape.
  • flip the dough out onto a precut piece of parchment paper
  • gather the pieces of twine on dough top, and then loosely tie together. i left just under an inch of room for my dough to expand while baking.
  • for an extra flourish, score each section with a leaf pattern using a lame.
  • watch the video above for full demonstration.
11 am: bake
  • transfer scored dough to dutch oven.
  • decrease temperature to 475°F. with the lid on, bake for 30 minutes. then, take the lid off. bake for another 12 – 15 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a medium brown).
  • let this loaf full cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate).
  • after crust is no longer hot to the touch (after 30 min), remove the strings by cutting them.
2 pm: slice & enjoy
  • optional: place your dried butternut squash stem flat on top of the loaf before serving.
  • let loaf cool for at least 3 hours before slicing.
toaster oven sourdough

toaster oven sourdough

what do you really need to bake good sourdough bread?

baking in taipei, without my usual suite of tools, has really pushed me to reflect on this question.

i optimistically brought doug, my sourdough starter, with me, to taiwan.

i say optimistically because it turns out it’s pretty rare to have an oven in a typical taiwanese kitchen. i walked into my airbnb to find a countertop air fryer, a robust blender, and a cabinet where an oven might have been installed.

luckily, a lack of a proper oven was nothing a bit of resourcefulness and a lot of enthusiasm from my roommate couldn’t solve.

together, we managed to get access to a toaster oven for an afternoon, cobble together a suite of tools, and still get pretty incredible results. i’m sharing the process below if ever you find yourself in a similar situation.

may your days be filled with bountiful carbs, wherever you may find yourself!

equipment

  • standard sized toaster oven. i used a panasonic toaster oven which had a maximum temperature of 230°C
  • 8″ x 4″ enamelled steel pot with lid. we had this vardagen pot from ikea, but i think any 2 qt dutch oven would work.
  • soup sized bowl. i used the bowl from this dinera set from ikea, the size of this cereal bowl
  • thin paper or a tea towel. i used thin coffee filter like paper to line my bowl to create a “proofing basket”

necessary tools

  • kitchen thermometer. i brought my thermopop from the u.s.
  • kitchen scale. also brought from home, i have this one

optional tools

  • lame. i brought my wiremonkeyshop one with me because it is small and i am extra.
  • parchment paper. this would help, but i managed without. i used some coarse brown rice flour instead.
  • bench scraper. or dough knife! i brought one from home, but you could use whatever large, sharp knife you have on hand.

notes

  • toaster ovens have lower maximum temperatures than a regular oven. my bake times were much longer in order to bake it all the way through and achieve the crust color i wanted.
  • toaster ovens are smaller than regular ovens. i’d recommend making smaller loaves. i used 450g of flour for two loaves.
  • toaster ovens heat up much faster than regular ovens. i also used a non cast-iron, non-dutch oven. as a result, i reduced the pre-heat time.

toaster oven sourdough

formula

levain build
  • 12 g unfed levain
  • 48 g water @ 85°F
  • 12 g whole wheat flour
  • 48 g bread flour
dough formula
  • 382 g bread flour
  • 68 g whole wheat flour
  • 360 g water @ 90°F
  • 11 g salt
  • 104 g ripe levain

method

8 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
12 pm: autolyse
  • in a large bowl or lidded pot, mix all flours together.
  • slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula or a wooden spoon or with your hands, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well.
  • stop when all the flour is hydrated.
  • let sit, covered, for 40 minutes.
12:30 pm: bulk fermentation
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times. then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix using wet hands, alternating between using stretch & fold and pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes.
  • let dough rise at room temp until it appears gaseous, about 7 hours in the springtime taipei (kitchen ~80°F)
  • this dough needs 4 sets of coil folds, spaced 45 min apart, starting at the beginning
7:30 pm: divide & shape
  • generously flour your clean, flat surface. gently guide dough onto the table.
  • using a bench knife, dough scraper, or regular knife, divide into two parts.
  • shape each part by gently tugging, folding, and rotating the dough a few times until it forms ball.
  • flip dough over, seam side down on an unfloured surface. gently tug and twist to seal
7:35 pm: proof
  • if no proofing basket, line a soup bowl with a coffee-filter like paper or a tea towel. generously flour the lining.
  • flip the dough over with a bench knife, and gently transfer the dough, seasm side up, into the makeshift proofing basket.
  • place bannetone inside of a plastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 12 – 16 hours.
  • repeat with second half of the dough.
[next morning] 10:00 am: preheat oven
  • place your enamel pot with lid on into the toaster oven. pre-heat oven to 230°C or 450°F (ie. the highest setting it would go) for 30 minutes.
10:30 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove one bowl from fridge.
  • generously flour the bottom with flour. i used coarse rice flour here because it was easily available here in taiwan, and it burns less easily.
  • very slowly, flip dough out of the bowl, and onto a cut piece of parchment paper or paper.
  • optional: score your loaf with a lame, a single blade, or a very sharp knife. i like to score boules by drawing an X, or a square.
10:35 am: bake
  • transfer scored dough to enameled pot.
  • with the lid on, bake for 35 minutes.
  • then, take the lid off. bake for another 18-20 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a pretty deep brown).
  • for the second loaf, place empty enameled pot with lid on back into toaster oven to re-heat for 5 more minutes before repeating the same scoring & baking procedure.
2 pm: slice & enjoy
  • allow bread to cool completely (at least 1.5 hours) before slicing and eating!
  • i didn't have a cooling rack, so i just used a fork to prop up the loaf which allowed the air to circulate.

cheddar dill sourdough rolls

cheddar dill sourdough rolls

i’ve always considered dill to be a second tier herb.

my mother cooked with a multitude of herbs, often, even growing chives and green onions in our backyard.

during peak harvest times, my mother would cook nothing but chives for weeks at a time — chive dumplings, chive bao zi, chive pockets. she fed it all to my brother and i until we became bloated from the fiber.

dill just never had a place in my pantry. never harmonized with the warming notes of our rotation of ginger, star anise, and chilis, never made it into our cart during our biweekly trips to shanghai supermarket.

in the past few months, however, i’ve been flirting a lot with dill. a dill-less salad now feels naked, like it’s missing an ingredient as crucial as the lettuce itself. i’ll never leave another PLS ungarnished.

above all, i’ve become hooked on the combination of cheese and dill after trying a roll from la farine.

with the feedback of over seven taste testers, i’ve developed a delicate, puffy, pizza-crust like roll that similarly centers cheddar and dill.

this roll has a crisp and thin crust, encrusted with thinly shredded cheddar and speckled with fresh dill. bready walls surround a small divet where the cheddar pools and bubbles. when you bite in, it’s like eating a sauceless, herby micro pizza.

no matter where you are in your relationship with dill, these rolls will make you fall in love all over again. bread and cheese tend to have that kind of effect.

notes

the secret to the perfect texture and bite is using olive oil instead of flour while shaping! it is of utmost importance that you use as little flour as possible during this step!

i encourage swapping the dill for chives or scallions for a different flavor profile. in fact, i’ve tested this with scallions and the result is just as wonderful (see the three rolls in the left corner of the cover photo).

though i haven’t tried it, gruyere could also be a nice cheese accompaniment to the dill.

if your cheddar is on the saltier side, i would skip the extra salt. the cheddar i used was pretty mild.

as always, my starter is 80% hydration. please adjust the dough formula to match your starter. all timing and schedules are suggestions. i developed this recipe in springtime san francisco kitchen at about 74°F.

baker’s percentage & sample timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
bread flour95%
whole wheat flour5%
water78%
salt2.5%
levain24%
cheddar cheese32%
fresh dill4%
steptime
levain build6 hours
bulk rise8-9 hours
folds6 folds
cold proof16 hours
bake15 min
cheddar dill rolls

cheddar dill sourdough rolls

makes 8 small rolls encrusted with thinly shredded cheddar and speckled with fresh dill featuring bready walls surrounding a small pool of bubbly, herby cheese.

formula

levain build
  • 8 g unfed levain
  • 8 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 32 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 32 g water @ 85°F
dough formula
  • 190 g king arthur bread flour
  • 10 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 156 g water @ 95°F
  • 5 g salt
  • 48 g ripe levain
  • extra virgin olive oil
to top
  • 64 g sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
  • 8 g fresh dill, chopped finely
  • 1 tsp salt (optional, to taste)

method

  • dill and cheddar
8 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using the levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
  • in my current kitchen of 74°F, it takes about 5-6 hrs for my starter to ripen. in a cold wintertime 60°F kitchen, it might take closer to 10 hrs.
1 pm: autolyse
  • in a large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated.
  • let sit, covered, for 30-60 minutes.
1:45 pm: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over the autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • then, measure out the ripe starter, and add to the bowl.
  • with wet hands, mix. i first use the pincer method. then, i alternate between the stretch & fold and the slap & fold method for about 6-7 minutes.
1:50 pm: bulk fermentation
  • let dough rise until it is 1.2x in volume and appears gaseous, about 8-9 hours in a 74°F kitchen.
  • this dough needs 5-6 sets of coil folds, spaced 30-45 min apart, starting at the beginning.
  • sample schedule:
    – 2:30 pm fold #1
    – 3:00 pm fold #2
    – 3:30 pm fold #3
    – 4:00 pm fold #4
    – 4:45 pm fold #5
    – 5:30 pm fold #6
10 pm: divide & shape
  • choose a large plate or vessel to place your final 8 dough balls. remember that they'll expand a little in the fridge.
  • generously oil the bottom (and sides) of the vessel. oil will act as the primary non-stick agent.
  • using as little flour as possible, dust a working surface. gently dump the dough onto your lightly floured surface.
  • again, using as little flour as possible, divide the dough into 8 even pieces. i keep cutting pieces evenly in half until i reach 8.
  • if your fingers are sticking to the dough, cover them lightly in oil.
  • one by one, use the stretch and fold method to form a ball with a tightly closed bottom. flip the ball, seam side down, on an unfloured surface. tug gently and twist slightly to seal.
  • generously oil the top and sides of the dough ball before placing into your vessel. repeat with all 8 balls.
10:15 pm: proof
  • once the balls are shaped, cover them with plastic wrap, or place the entire vessel in a sealed, extra large, gallon ziploc bag.
  • whatever you use, you'll want to make sure the seal is airtight and that they are completely covered so they do not dry out (this means cloth does not work).
  • place in fridge and proof for 14-16 hours.
[next day] 12:55 pm: preheat & prep
  • preheat oven to 500°F.
  • to make the topping, mix the thinly shredded cheddar cheese together with dill. add salt, if needed, to taste.
1 pm: shape, again
  • remove the dough balls from the fridge. they should look like they held their shape for the most part, and like they have expanded slightly.
  • cover a sheet pan with parchment paper.
  • with oiled hands, take one dough ball and set onto the sheet pan, remembering to leave space for all the others.
    cheddar roll shaping part 1
  • cheddar roll shaping part 2
  • using your thumb, indent the center of the dough so that it makes an imprint. using your other fingers, press to widen the indent so it makes a divet, about the size of a quarter.
  • moving quickly, take a small scoop of the cheese topping and press it into the divet you just formed. it is totally normal for the divet to start closing immediately! not to worry at all. just use your fingers to press the topping in.
  • gently cover the rest of the roll with additional cheese mixture.
  • repeat with all the remaining rolls until you have all 8 evenly filled and evenly spaced out on the sheet pan.
    shaped and topped buns ready for baking
1:15 pm: bake
  • place sheet pan on middle rack of oven.
  • bake at 500°F for 5 minutes. then, lower to 475°F and bake for an additional 10 min. you'll want the cheese to look golden or golden brown, but not dark brown or burnt.
1:45 pm: enjoy!
  • let cool for 15 minutes. serve immediately by themselves, or with some beer & pickles.
  • store up to a few days in a tupperware container.
  • to reheat, pop in the microwave for 15 seconds or in the air fryer for a few minutes.

tiny sourdough

tiny sourdough

i made this tiny sourdough reel for april fools’ inspired by how “small batch” has taken off this past year. it quickly became my most popular post! i’m blown away by the response, and wanted to share a longer video and process with all of you.

i’m including the full recipe below so you can make your very own tiny sourdough loaf ✨

notes

  • although i provide a recipe, you can scale down any standard recipe. 60g of total flour will make two tiny sourdough loaves.
  • i used my classic country brown recipe, but decreased the proportion of wheat flour to 10%, and used bread flour in place of all purpose.

materials

tiny sourdough

make your own extra tiny sourdough loaf with a homemade mini proofing basket and an 8 oz cocotte. recipe yields 2.

formula

dough formula
  • 54 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 6 g king arthur bread flour
  • 45 g water @ 90°F
  • 1 g salt
  • 15 g ripe levain

method

12 pm: autolyse
  • in a small bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with fingers making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
12:30 pm: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times. then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl. mix, alternating between pincer and stretch and fold, for about 6-7 minutes.
  • this dough needs 3-4 sets of stretch and folds spaced 45 min apart, at the beginning.
  • let dough rise at room temp until expands and appears gaseous, about 8 hours in the springtime.
make the bannetone
  • get two 2.5 oz sauce or condiment cups, or something similarly sized.
  • option 1: using a pour-over coffee filter. cut off about 1 inch at the top. then, place the filter cone point down into the tin. fold the bottom, and then fold the filter edges over the sauce tin.
  • option 2: using a small piece of linen. find a scrap piece of linen. cut it so that you can fold the edges over and line the sauce tin.
  • whichever option you choose, repeat twice to create two mini proofing baskets.
8:30 pm: divide & shape
  • on a generously floured surface, gently guide dough onto the table. using a bench knife, divide the dough into two equal parts.
  • to shape, first fold the dough on itself: top, left, right, bottom, like you're folding up paper. then, finish with a few stretch and folds around to create a circular, dome shape.
  • flip dough over, seam side down on an unfloured surface, and gently tug to seal.
proof
  • generously flour your makeshift proofing baskets, and your mini boules. flip the dough, seam side up, into your proofing basket.
  • repeat with the other boule.
  • place both bannetones inside of a sealed plastic bag or ziploc. place in fridge overnight for 12-16 hours.
[next morning] 10 am: bake
  • when ready to bake, pre-heat oven to 475°F. place both 8 oz mini dutch ovens (also called a cocotte) with lid on into the oven for about 30 minutes.
  • if you don't have two, you can bake them sequentially. just place the cocotte back in the oven for 5 minutes in between bakes to heat up again.
  • to prepare, flip dough out of sauce tin onto a small, pre-cut piece of parchment paper.
  • optional step: score your loaf.
  • transfer parchment paper and dough to piping hot cocotte.
  • with the lid on, bake for 8 minutes. then, take the lid off. bake for another 10-15 minutes uncovered, or whenever the crust turns a golden brown.
11 am: slice & enjoy
  • this loaf needs to cool for 15 minutes. enjoy with the smallest dab of butter 🧈 and jam 🍓
sourdough cheese rolls

sourdough cheese rolls

i ended last year hung up on three things.

the first: a boy (isn’t it always?). quarantine fact: break ups are much, much harder during a global pandemic when there is not much else to do except sit on a rollercoaster ride of uncomfortable feelings and thought patterns.

the second: brooklyn. seeking proximity to family and an escape from the impending winter, i left new york. quarantine fact: there’s nothing like cinematic nostalgia to leave you on the ground curled up in a blanket burrito, sobbing. watching dash & lily destroyed me.

last, but certainly not least: my beloved arizmendi cheese rolls. back in august, i had scoured the internet for the recipe. i had racked my brain for the taste profile of the cheese. quarantine fact: i had tasted cheesy, bready greatness and i could not go back.

luckily, when i moved last month i discovered cheeseboard, arizmendi’s sister bakery. needless to say, i have since consumed many a cheese roll. luckily, this also had the happy side effect of mitigating the first two aforementioned hang ups. a small sacrifice in the name of research.

after much neighborly taste testing, i’m confident this formula produces a remarkable likeness to the original cheese roll, with improvements. i feel i’m doing a similar type of analysis and reconstruction for the other parts of my life. basking in the sunny, warm winter days. reconnecting with old friends over focaccia. trekking through miles of redwood forest.

i’m not saying these cheese rolls have magically cured my afflictions, though i notice progress everyday.

all i’m saying is this. if even one person is spared from the sadness that is a life without cheese rolls, then my work here will have been worth it.

notes

as always, please adjust the formula based on the hydration of your starter, and adjust the timing of the bulk rise based on the temperature of your kitchen. please treat all times listed below as a sample schedule. this recipe was developed during the winter, in a 60 degree kitchen at 50% humidity.

you might be tempted to use a different type of cheese. i strongly recommend you resist this urge. asiago cheese just hits different. i repeat. these rolls will not have the intended flavor without asiago.

as per my other experiences baking with cheese, parchment paper is a must! melty cheese can easily crust over.

this recipe preserves all of the loveability of these iconic rolls while also providing a softer bite, lighter texture, and smaller size. i’m especially excited about this recipe, and i hope you all will be too.

baker’s percentage & sample timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour50%
bread flour30%
whole wheat flour20%
water75%
salt2.5%
levain24%
asiago cheese35%
steptime
levain build9 hours
bulk rise12 hours
folds3 folds
proof2 hours
bake20-25 min

sourdough cheese rolls

sourdough asiago cheese rolls inspired by one of my favorite pastries at the iconic co-op bakeries cheeseboard collective in berkeley and arizmendi bakery in san francisco.

formula

levain build
  • 10 g unfed levain
  • 10 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 40 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 40 g water @ 85°F
dough formula
  • 150 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 90 g king arthur bread flour
  • 60 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 225 g water @ 95°F
  • 7 g sea salt
  • 75 g ripe levain
add-ins
  • 90 g asiago cheese (shredded)

method

9:30 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method. in wintertime in a cold 60°F kitchen, it takes ~10 hrs for my starter to ripen. in a summertime kitchen, it might take closer to 6 hrs.
7:15 pm: autolyse
  • in a large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30-60 minutes.
8 pm: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times. then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix using the pincer and stretch & fold method for about 6-7 minutes.
  • let dough rise overnight at room temp until it doubles and appears gaseous, ~12 hours in the wintertime (cold kitchen ~60°F), ~9 hrs in the shoulder seasons (kitchen ~67°F), and probably closer to ~7 hours in the summertime (hot kitchen ~75°F)
  • this dough needs 3-4 sets of stretch and folds, spaced 30-45 min apart, starting at the beginning.
9 am: shape
  • gently handle gaseous dough onto a lightly floured surface. stretch gently into a square, about 8×8 inches, such that one side is floured, and the other is slightly tacky.
  • generously and evenly sprinkle ~2/3 (or more) of the shredded cheese onto the square, so the dough square is covered in cheese.
  • similar to rolling cinnamon rolls, roll the square into a cylinder. starting with the edge facing you, slowly roll up the square into a tight spiral.
  • with a bench knife or a string, cut the cylinder into six even pieces.
  • arrange the rolls of dough on parchment paper in your baking vessel of choice.
9:15 am: proof
  • cover and rest for 2 hours.
10:30 am: pre-heat
  • if you're using a cast-iron skillet, you will have to pre-heat the skillet with the oven. to do so, lift parchment paper and rolls off of cast-iron skillet, and set aside. cover again.
  • pre-heat oven to 475°F. place cast-iron skillet inside oven to heat.
11:30 am: bake
  • if using a cast iron skillet, remove now piping hot cast iron from oven and place the parchment paper with rolls back into cast iron.
  • generously top buns with additional cheese.
  • place buns on your middle rack.
  • bake for 20-25 minutes, or until buns are golden brown, checking once at 18 minutes.

cheddar pepper sourdough

cheddar pepper sourdough

we could all use a little more comfort in our lives right now, even in the blistering heat of summer. for me, no other food combination spells out comfort more than cheese and carbs.

this loaf deliciously combines the best of both worlds. the savory creaminess from the melted cheese comes in sporadic pockets, with the subtle spiciness from the black pepper running throughout.

this cheese and black pepper combo has easily become one of my favorites.

notes

as always, please adjust the formula based on the hydration of your starter, and adjust the timing of the bulk rise based on the temperature of your kitchen. this recipe was developed during the summer, in a 80 degree kitchen. please add an hour during the shoulder months, and two hours in winter months.

i used mccormick’s ground black pepper to develop this recipe, which i found to be fairly weak in flavor. i liked the flavor better at 2.5%, which for a 400 g flour loaf was 10 g of black pepper. i did not try this with freshly cracked black pepper. if you do bake this with freshly cracked black pepper which usually carries a stronger flavor, please be sure to reduce the amount.

cubing a block of cheese yourself is the secret to melty cheese pockets! shredded cheese will not yield the same effect. i like to use sharp, white cheddar cheese, but i bet a similar type of cheese would work just as well.

parchment paper is important here because the cheese will melt and get stuck to your dutch oven! that being said, the parchment paper might also get stuck to the loaf due to melted cheese. peel and scrape it off before enjoying.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour60%
whole wheat flour20%
bread flour20%
water80%
salt2.5%
levain22%
cheddar cheese30%
black pepper2.5%
steptime
levain build6 hours
bulk rise6.5 hours
folds4 folds &
1 lamination
cold proof12 – 16 hours
bake45 minutes

cheddar pepper sourdough

like mac and cheese in sourdough bread, this loaf is speckled with black pepper and caves of melted cheddar cheese.

formula

levain build
  • 15 g unfed levain
  • 15 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 60 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 60 g water @ 85°F
dough formula
  • 240 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 80 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur bread flour
  • 320 g water @ 90°F
  • 10 g sea salt
  • 88 g ripe levain
add-ins
  • 120 g white sharp cheddar cheese, cubed
  • 8 – 10 g black pepper, to taste

method

  • cubed cheese and pepper
7 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
12 pm: autolyse
  • in a large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 60 minutes.
1 pm: bulk fermentation
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times. then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix, alternating between using the rubaud and pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes.
  • let dough rise at room temp until it doubles and appears gaseous, about 6.5 hours in the summertime (kitchen ~80°F)
  • this dough needs 4 sets of coil folds, spaced 45 min apart, starting at the beginning. after the first coil fold, perform lamination to incorporate cheese and pepper.
  • sample schedule:
    – 1:45 pm fold #1
    – 2:30 pm laminate in cubed cheese and ground pepper
    – 3:15 pm fold #2
    – 4 pm fold #3
    – 4:45 pm fold #4
7:30 pm: shape
  • i like to shape these like a batard.
  • on a generously floured surface, gently guide dough onto the table. first tug and fold the dough lightly on itself in each direction: top, left, right, bottom, like you're folding up paper.
  • then, knit the left and right sides together like you're stitching up a seam.
  • finish by taking the top end of the dough, and rolling it up like a scroll, perpendicular to the seam.
  • flip dough over, seam side down on an unfloured surface. pinch ends shut.
7:35 pm: proof
  • generously flour an unlined bannetone (for the swirl aesthetic). flip the dough over with a bench knife, and gently transfer the dough, seasm side up, into the bannetone.
  • place bannetone inside of a plastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 12 – 16 hours.
[next morning] 9:30 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
10:30 am: bake
  • scored loaf
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • very slowly, flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • score your loaf with a lame. i like to score this with a single deep cut down the center with some optional lighter flourishes to each side.
  • transfer scored dough to dutch oven. decrease temperature to 475°F. with the lid on, bake for 30 minutes. then, take the lid off. bake for another 12 – 15 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a pretty deep brown).
12:30 pm: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.
sourdough discard dumplings 餃子 part i

sourdough discard dumplings 餃子 part i

dumpling series

this is the first part of my three part series on sourdough discard dumplings!

  • in this part, i explain my formula and method for making dumpling wrappers using sourdough discard.
  • in the second part, i focus on shandong style dumpling wrapping technique (with a vegan filling recipe!), and how i like to pay fry them.
  • the third part describes my formula and method for adding a pretty, extra crispy skirt on your pan fried dumplings with a sourdough discard slurry.

read them all together to re-create my sourdough dumplings, or mix and match with different techniques or store-bought items.

my story

i learned how to make dumplings from generations of women in my family passing down this one tradition.

from a young age my mother made it clear to me that the way we made dumplings was not like other chinese families. first, she said, we made our own wrappers. this skill, she urged, was not one to be overlooked.

thus, my childhood kitchen table became my training ground. me struggling to roll out dumpling wrappers while my palms hurt, mom generously wrapping plump morsels, dad manning the boiling station, brother too young to contribute beyond eating (eventually stepping up into assistant wrapper).

my grandparents and i
my grandparents and i in tai an 泰 安 (2015)

there are many different ways to make “chinese” dumplings. each region has its preferences for wrapping, pleating, filling, and cooking methods.

shandong 山东 style dumplings are known for thicker, chewier dumpling wrappers. they are fat with filling, and don’t care to impress with braided pleating. oftentimes my mother squeezes them shut in a dual cupping pinching motion i have yet to master.

though incorporating sourdough discard into the dumpling dough is far from traditional, it does create a flavor that’s very compatible with the black vinegar sauce and fillings i usually use (cabbage or carrots).

more importantly, i wanted to develop this recipe to bring together two of my most important worlds. i wanted to share this piece of my story with all of you, and share it in an incredibly delicious way.

notes

although the formula is new, this is the process my family has always followed for homemade dumpling wrappers. the rolling method is tricky and will take practice to get used to. i can’t promise that it’s foolproof, but i can promise to try my best in communicating what the women in my family have taught me.

as always, please adjust the water and flour amounts based on the hydration of your starter.

if you have leftover dough, you can use it to make a scallion pancake.

uncooked dumplings

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour100%
water50%
unfed levain (discard)50%
steptime
autolyse2-3 hr
fry7-10 min
boil5 min

sourdough discard dumpling wrappers 餃子皮

mildly tangy DIY dumpling wrappers to wrap any filling of your liking. pairs particularly well with veggies that taste good pickled, like cabbage and carrots.
Prep Time 40 minutes
Resting Time 2 hours
Total Time 2 hours 40 minutes

formula

  • 200 g all purpose flour
  • 100 g warm water
  • 100 g sourdough starter discard

method

  • in a large bowl, mix flour and warm water until it just comes together (the dough will look slightly stringy). then, add the sourdough starter discard.
  • knead the dough together for 3-4 minutes into a ball. the dough should appear smoother, but will not look completely smooth.
  • let rest, covered, for 2-3 hours.
  • take the dough out onto a floured surface, and cut in half.
  • flatten one piece of dough into a rectangle that is 1 inch tall, so that the short end is 2 inches wide, and the long end is around 7 – 8 inches. cut length wise.
  • cut each dough piece into 1 inch-ish segments, resulting in 15 or so segments. roll each segment in flour.
  • flatten each segment into a disc shape.
  • on a floured surface using a rolling pin, roll out each puffy disc into a smooth, flattened dumpling wrapper. you want the edges of the disc to end up slightly thinner, and the center to be slightly thicker. this is both so that when the edges are folded together the thickness will be similar to the rest of the dumpling, and also to prevent tears while cooking.
  • i get this result by first tugging the edge of the puffy disc with my left hand, while rolling over a small section of it on the opposite side with my right hand over the rolling pin. then, i rotate counter-clockwise a small amount, and repeat the rolling motion. this light tugging, rolling, and rotating sequence is repeated until the wrapper is flattened.
  • when complete, put completed wrapper on a well floured surface.
  • repeat with each disc — keep well floured and do not stack to prevent sticking!
  • use immediately to wrap your dumplings or potstickers. no need to wet these when wrapping, as the fresh dough should produce enough stickiness for the sides to naturally adhere to each other.
  • repeat all over again with the other half of the dough, to get around 30 dumpling wrappers (and dumplings) in total.
olive sourdough

olive sourdough

i wish i could say that perusing the olive and cheese selection at the park slope food coop is what inspired me to make this loaf, but alas. i must confess i made this loaf because i once loved a man who really, really loved olives.

he didn’t live in new york (or even in this country), and for some reason i got it in my head that if only he tried a piece of this bread, he would consider moving brooklyn. yes, the loaf was truly that tasty.

a year has gone and passed since then. my hypothesis was never tested, as our relationship was too short-lived for him to try this bread.

luckily, this recipe lives on.

salty, tangy, always leaving you wanting more. feed this to all the lovers and olive lovers in your life. please do let me know if it has the intended effect 😉

notes

be sure to buy pre-pitted olives! i most certainly, definitely am not including this because i learned this the hard way heh (but seriously, de-pitting them was a n00b lesson you will now not have to repeat).

for lamination videos, check out my guava cream cheese post or @fullproofbaking.

my regular batch of caveats: please be wary of starter hydration and seasonal timing adjustments (for me it means about +1 hr in the summer, and about -1 hr in the winter).

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
bread flour50%
all purpose flour20%
whole wheat flour20%
rye flour10%
water80%
salt2.5%
levain24%
steptime
levain build7 hours
bulk rise8 hours
folds3 folds
cold proof14 – 18 hours
bake45 minutes

olive sourdough

the rye, wheat, and olive combo makes for a salty, tangy, loaf that always leaves you wanting more. a great accompaniment to a cheese plate.

formula

levain build
  • 20 g levain
  • 80 g water @ 85-90°F
  • 20 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur all purpose flour
dough formula
  • 164 g king arthur bread flour
  • 66 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 67 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 33 g rye flour
  • 257 g water @ 90-95°F
  • 8 g sea salt
  • 80 g levain
  • 7 g additional water
lamination
  • 82 g pitted olives

method

11pm: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
[next morning] 7 am: autolyse
  • in a separate large bowl, mix all flours together.
  • slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
7:30 am: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough, and pour additional water over it to help the salt absorb. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • measure out the ripe starter, and add to dough.
  • mix using the pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes. target final temperature should be 78 degrees.
7:37 am bulk fermentation
  • this dough bulks for about 8 hrs at room temp during spring/fall, longer if your kitchen runs cool or during winter, and shorter if your kitchen runs warm or during the summer.
  • this dough needs around 3-4 stretch and folds (or coil folds), and an additional round of lamination after the first fold to incorporate the olives. these steps should be spaced about 45 minutes apart if possible.
  • example schedule:
    8:15 AM fold #1. 9 AM lamination. 9:45 AM fold #2. 10:30 AM fold #3.
9 am: lamination
  • cut pitted olives in half.
  • perform lamination by first stretching dough like a pizza crust, and then spreading olive chunks evenly across the dough. fold onto itself into a rectangular shape.
3 pm: shape
  • slowly transfer dough from bowl onto a lightly floured surface, so it lays out in a vaguely rectangular looking shape.
  • i like shaping these like a batard, using what i like to call the "burrito method."
  • 1. gently tug the top, short end of the vaguely rectangular looking shape, and fold over a small section.
  • 2. grab a tiny bit of dough from the left side, and tug it over onto the right side. grab a tiny bit of dough from the right side and tug it over onto the left side. continue pattern downwards to form a stitch-like appearance.
  • 3. when you get close to the bottom end, fold over a small piece upwards. then do one final stitch to seal.
  • 4. take the top end of the burrito, and roll it over onto itself, kind of like a sushi roll.
  • 5. seal the ends by pinching the holes shut.
3:05 pm: proof
  • lightly flour a lined bannetone or other proofing vesicle. flip the top of the dough over, and gently transfer the dough seam side up into the bannetone.
  • place bannetone inside of a plastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 14-18 hours.
[next morning] 6 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
6:55 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • optional: sprinkle coarse corn meal on the bottom. flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • using a lame, score length wise, about 1/8" deep, and 1/2" away from both edges. sometimes, i optionally add a leaf design as well for flourish
7 am: bake
  • slowly and carefully lift the parchment paper with the dough into the hot dutch oven. decrease temperature to 475°F. bake for 30 minutes with the lid on.
  • take the lid off, and bake for another 15-20 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go medium brown for this loaf).
10 am: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.
country brown sourdough

country brown sourdough

i don’t talk about ken forkish enough. i really should because he changed my life.

in 2016, my coworker, artur, brought in a loaf of bread (so crusty, so good) and evangelized a book he used to make it, flour water salt yeast (fwsy, for short). artur kept bringing in bread, each loaf better and more complex than the one before. and i, carb loving individual that i am, kept on eating it, each bite more curious than before.

i picked up a copy later that month and started baking alongside arty.

ken became my first teacher of sourdough, and fwsy became my bible. his story of transitioning from disillusioned banker to james beard celebrated bakery and pizzeria owner resonated with a younger version of me, a frustrated software engineer looking for, if not meaning and fulfillment, at least something where she didn’t have to stare at a screen for hours.

i have read the entire book (and have baked 90% of it) from cover to cover. my copy, you could say, is well loved. the entire middle chunk can be pulled out. there is dried, crusted sourdough starter on the guide to making your own levain pages. you can’t miss the bits of crusted up dough on the recipes i really struggled with (all i can say is, ken, you must have a frigid portland kitchen).

this recipe is inspired by one of my favorite loaves in the book, his country brown sourdough. i’ve incorporated newer techniques that work better for me in wetter doughs, and paired it with the familiar flavor of his country brown. mildly tangy, soft, accessible, and so very versatile.

notes

as always, please adjust the formula based on the hydration of your starter, and adjust the timing of the bulk rise based on the temperature of your kitchen (1 hr shorter during summer, 1 hr longer during winter).

i mentioned that this is a pretty slack, wet dough due to the high hydration and lower protein content of the flours. to introduce more strength, i extend the autolyse to 1 hr (as opposed to 30 min), use the rubaud and slap & fold methods for mixing, and load up on coil folds.

please refer to the above linked videos for the techniques i mention in my recipe, as i do not describe them further.

feel free to experiment with any whole wheat variety. i’ve baked this with both king arthur whole wheat, and locally grown red fife!

the link to ken’s book is an amazon affiliate link. this means if you purchase it from this page, i’ll make money from it. that doesn’t affect my opinion of this book at all. know that i only recommend products and resources that have helped me immensely on my personal sourdough journey and that i consider to be a worthwhile investment.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour70%
whole wheat flour30%
water80%
salt2.5%
levain25%
steptime
levain build7 hours
bulk rise8 – 8.5 hours
folds4 – 5 folds
cold proof12 hours
bake45 minutes

country brown sourdough

a staple, versatile loaf with a long ferment and high hydration for a tangy, custardy, and light crumb.
Total Time 1 day 9 hours

formula

levain build
  • 15 g levain
  • 15 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 60 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 60 g water @ 85-90°F
dough formula
  • 280 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 120 g whole wheat flour of choice
  • 320 g water @ 90-95°F
  • 10 g sea salt
  • 100 g levain

method

7 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
1 pm: autolyse
  • in a large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 60 minutes.
2 pm: bulk fermentation
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times. then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl. mix, alternating between slap & fold and rubaud method, for about 6-7 minutes.
  • this dough needs 4-5 sets of coil folds, spaced 45 min apart, at the beginning.
  • let dough rise at room temp until doubles and appears gaseous, about 8.5 hours in the springtime.
10:30 pm: shape
  • i like to shape these like a boule.
  • on a generously floured surface, gently guide dough onto the table. first fold the dough on itself: top, left, right, bottom, like you're folding up paper. then, finish with a few stretch and folds around to create a circular, dome shape.
  • flip dough over, seam side down on an unfloured surface, and gently tug to seal.
10:35 pm: proof
  • generously flour an unlined bannetone (for the swirl aesthetic). flip the dough over with a bench knife, and gently transfer the dough, seasm side up, into the bannetone.
  • place bannetone inside of a plastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 12 hours.
[next morning] 10 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
10:55 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • very slowly, flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • i like to score this with a box. two light parallel cuts horizontally, followed by two light parallel cuts vertically.
11 am: bake
  • transfer scored dough to dutch oven. decrease temperature to 485°F. with the lid on, bake for 30 minutes. then, decrease to 475°F and take the lid off. bake for another 12 – 15 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a pretty deep brown).
2 pm: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.
cast iron sourdough discard pizza

cast iron sourdough discard pizza

my earliest meaningful memory of pizza is of waiting in line with my mother at papa murphy’s take and bake, bogo coupon in hand, ordering two supreme pizzas. then, there was the costco food stand. our family of 4 would pile into the car, do our shopping, walk out with the largest supreme pizza available, and eat the leftovers over the next few days.

if there’s one thing my mother believed in, it was value. getting anything short of whatever gave you the most amount of toppings was unthinkable. and thus, i was raised on a string of supreme pizzas.

then, the singular experience at 17 that redefined pizza for me: a classic margherita from punch pizza.

for one, it was a topping-less pizza. i remember it coming out, the bare cheese staring back at me, bits of tomato sauce peeking through, naked, like it forgot to put its clothes on.

second, we each got our own individual pizza, as if one entire pizza was an acceptable serving size my parents conveniently forgot to mention to me, a young susceptible mind and a very hungry almost adult.

but most importantly, it was nothing like i had tasted before. the thin base, the wood fired flavor, the satisfying chew of the crust. it was hard for me to believe that we lived in a world where the pizza i knew and loved could coexist with this new pizza i didn’t know and quickly became infatuated with.

i’ve had way more pizza memories than i’d like to admit over this past decade of pizza discovery and re-discovery. pizza seems to hold the constant of re-inventing itself for me just as i keep re-inventing myself.

my newest favorite way to eat pizza is to make a big batch of dough, invite a small group of friends over, and make a couple of pizzas together while we catch up. it’s as collaborative as it is creative, as easy as it is fast, as humble as it is impressive.

i hope these will soon become your favorite pizza memories too.

notes

i have a stiff starter that’s 80% hydration. please adjust amount of water in final dough to account for your starter’s hydration.

we might not get to gather in groups again for a while, but luckily this dough keeps well for a few days in the fridge. in fact, this dough needs a long cold proof. you’ll find it becomes easier to work with and the flavors become more complex the longer it’s been in the fridge. it bakes up quick enough to make for a reasonably achievable weekday work from home lunch.

pizza like this does its best baking at very high temps. unfortunately most home ovens don’t go as high as commercial ones. just crank it to as high as it will go, and make sure your oven is clean. i may or may not have set off my smoke detector at least 5 times over the course of 3 bakes.

this recipe makes enough dough for 3 – 12″ skillet-sized pizzas or 4 – 9″ skill-sized pizzas. scale up or down as needed. i can pretty easily eat an entire one of these.

this recipe is just for the crust. some toppings inspiration:

  • du’s: mozz, caramelized onions, roasted garlic, spinach. to prevent burnt ends, put the caramelized onions on post bake or hide beneath spinach. drizzle with honey & chili flakes right before serving.
  • margherita: tomato sauce & mozz. put basil on right before serving.
  • tie dye: ricotta & mozz, tomato sauce & pesto
  • shakshuka: tomato sauce, egg, mozz, feta. top with pepper and arugula post bake
two slices of sourdough discard pizza from the side

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour100%
water70%
unfed levain (discard)20%
steptime
autolyse30 – 60 min
bulk rise9 hours
folds2 folds
cold proof12 – 72 hours
bake15 – 20 min
top left corner of sourdough discard pizza in cast iron skillet

sourdough discard pizza

adapted from ken forkish's recipe, this versatile pizza dough is made from sourdough discard and baked in a cast iron skillet pan.

formula

dough formula
  • 400 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 280 g water @ 90-95°F
  • 80 g sourdough starter discard
  • 10 g sea salt
toppings
  • anything you want on a pizza!

method

8 am: autolyse
  • in a medium to large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30-60 minutes.
  • 8:45 am: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • then, measure out discard starter (room temp or from fridge), and add to bowl. mix, alternating with pincer method and stretch and fold, until well incorporated, for about 6 minutes.
9 am: bulk fermentation
  • this dough needs a bulk rise of about 8-9 hours, until the dough is doubled and gaseous, with 2 stretch and folds in the first 2 hours spaced about 30-45 min apart.
  • after your last fold, lightly coat dough with olive oil to prevent sticking.
5:30 pm: divide & shape
  • generously sprinkle flour onto a table and your hands. gently turn your dough out onto your working surface into a somewhat even shape.
  • using a bench knife, divide dough into equal sections of about 250 g each for a 3 pizzas in a 12" skillet, or about 200 g each for 4 pizzas in a 9".
  • shape into tight dough balls using stretch and fold method. flip over onto its seam and drag ever so slightly on an unfloured surface to seal. repeat with each dough round.
5:45 pm: proof
  • place the dough balls on a lightly floured baking sheet or container, allowing for some room to expand. lightly oil the tops, then cover. i use aluminum foil (its recyclable in nyc!) for a baking sheet or just a tupperware cover.
  • leave in fridge overnight or for at least 8 hours, up to 3 days.
[next day] 6 pm: preheat
  • preheat oven to 525°F or as high as it will go. put cast iron skillet inside oven and heat for 30 min. if you have a finicky smoke detector like i do, watch out.
  • it usually takes a full 30 minutes for my ancient brooklyn oven to pre-heat so i usually just leave my skillet in for an hour.
7 pm: stretch
  • remove dough from fridge.
  • on a generously floured surface, stretch your dough. gently punch down the center, leaving a thin rim (about ½" – 1") for the crust. flip over and repeat.
  • i also like to pick up the round, letting the dough dangle vertically, and gently rotate, letting gravity help me stretch and create the final shape.
  • continue doing these two steps until you get your desired thin-ness. you want it thin, without holes. no worries if holes do appear though — you can just patch 'em.
7:10 pm: top
  • have all your pizza toppings ready to go next to your stove.
  • remove the now piping hot cast iron skillet from oven, and place on a stove burner at high heat.
  • carefully, with very floured hands, transfer your pizza crust onto the cast iron skillet. gently stretch if needed, but i find that to be very difficult at this stage.
  • working quickly, top your pizza.
  • at its simplest: spoon some tomato sauce and arrange some mozz slices. drizzle olive oil and lightly sprinkle sea salt over the top.
7:15 pm: bake
  • place skillet back into oven for about 15 minutes, or until cheese is bubbly and crust turns golden brown. check after 12 minutes and keep an eye on it to prevent burning.
7:30 pm: enjoy
  • let cool for a minute or two before transferring to a cutting board. slice and serve immediately with your favorite italian wine (chianti classico perhaps?).
  • eat a slice with people you love even more than you love pizza.
sourdough croutons, and other ways to love old bread

sourdough croutons, and other ways to love old bread

if you’re like me and love baking bread just as much as you love eating bread, you might occasionally have the unique, and frankly excellent, problem of sometimes being in possession of perhaps, too much bread (writing this pains me because i’d like to defend that there is no such thing as too much bread, particularly sourdough bread).

over the past few years, in addition to baking slightly smaller loaves and finding more people to share my freshly baked bread with, i’ve developed a few strategies to maximize my bread consumption and to salvage aging (or failed heh) loaves — what else is a carb-loving eco-conscious nerd to do?

1. pre-slice & freeze half

i’ve found that the shelf life of homemade sourdough is around 3 days, though the crust begins to lose its characteristic crunch much sooner than that.

let this be a game changer: you can freeze your bread, and re-toast it to revive the same texture.

i like to pre-slice the portion of the loaf i plan to freeze into toastable sizes, and then store them in a freezer bag. when i’m ready to eat, i just pull out slices one by one and pop them in the toaster on a medium-high setting. when they pop out, they’re crispy on the edges and soft in the center.

you’re welcome.

2. give your bread a second life

sometimes my sourdough gets stale sooner than i’d like. in these cases i give it a second act: savory bread pudding, french toast using day-old guava cream cheese sourdough, or my current favorite — sourdough croutons. like discard focaccia, the recipe is simple while the possibilities for flavor combos are limitless.

this recipe is vaguer than my other ones. just like okonomiyaki is a way to eat a bunch of delicious sauces, i feel like croutons are simply a vehicle to get flavor profiles you want on a very crisp vehicle.

sub olive oil for melted butter for a richer flavor. add whatever flavorings you want. i like a generous amount of italian seasoning and garlic powder. sometimes a bit of parmesan cheese if i’m feeling fancy.

cut toss bake enjoy repeat. i hope this encourages you to love your day-old bread just as much as you love your fresh-out-of-the-oven crackling loaf!

sourdough croutons

Prep Time 5 minutes
Bake Time 15 minutes

formula

the basics
  • stale sourdough bread
  • salt
  • olive oil
the extras
  • italian seasoning
  • garlic powder
  • parmesan cheese

method

  • pre-heat oven to 350°F.
  • cut sourdough bread into small cubes. i like mine around 1/2".
  • drizzle olive oil evenly over the cubed bread. gently sprinkle a light, even amount of salt over cubed bread, and then top with whatever seasonings feel interesting to you.
  • you can combine the ingredients either first in a large bowl, or directly on the sheet pan. i hate doing dishes so i mix em up with my hands directly on the sheet. make sure the sheet pan is large enough as to not crowd the cubes.
  • bake for 15ish minutes, or until croutons are crisp and dry. keep an eye on them to prevent burning. eat them in soups, on top of salads, or straight up as a snack.
  • to store, wait until completely cool and keep in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
sourdough discard focaccia

sourdough discard focaccia

focaccia is like sourdough’s super chill, completely unfussy sister that pulls everything off without even trying. you know the type — the ones that throw their hair up in a bun without having to check their reflection, throw on a jacket that’s just laying about, and still manages to bounce out the door looking effortlessly cool.

some days i want making bread to feel like this too, and on those days i make focaccia. throw everything together, go to sleep, and in the morning, poof, without having to really even think, out comes this miraculously delicious, beautiful thing.

think it’s too good to be true? let’s make it even better. this sourdough focaccia recipe is leavened with sourdough starter discard.

you’re welcome 🙂

sourdough discard focaccia dough

notes

i have a stiff starter that’s 80% hydration. please adjust amount of water in final dough to account for your starter’s hydration.

you might realize you like a different thickness of focaccia than the one described here. a 10×10 inch brownie-ish or cake pan for this quantity of dough will give you a focaccia that just fills the crevices. for a thicker focaccia, use a smaller pan or scale up your dough. i use a pan where the dough doesn’t quite reach the edges and get a thinner focaccia i personally really enjoy. tldr; use what you got!

if you find your focaccia is sticking to the pan or worry it might, a few readers have recommended using parchment paper in addition to oil.

though this recipe tastes great on its own, it is also very adaptable to include whatever toppings you wish and enjoy on focaccia. a few suggestions:

  • roasted garlic: roast 1-2 heads of garlic. dimple in the garlic before adding salt and additional olive oil.
  • zataar: after dimpling and after drizzling olive oil and salt, sprinkle a handful of zataar. drizzle another bit of olive oil on top.
  • veggies: slice a couple handfuls of raw grape or cherry tomatoes in half, and some red onion and peppers into slivers. dimple in the veggies before adding salt and additional olive oil.
  • grapes: dimple in a couple handfuls of grapes before adding salt and additional olive oil.
  • rosemary: top with a few sprigs of rosemary at the end.
sourdough discard focaccia sliced crumb shot stacked

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour60%
einkorn* flour20%
bread flour20%
water80%
unfed levain (discard)20%
steptime
autolyse30 – 60 min
bulk rise10 – 12 hours
folds1 – 2 folds
bake15 – 20 min

*you can sub einkorn flour with whole wheat, or all purpose flour

sourdough discard focaccia sliced

sourdough discard focaccia

simple, unfussy, forgiving, and utterly delicious. this basic focaccia recipe can be enjoyed as is or dressed up with toppings.

formula

dough formula
  • 180 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 60 g king arthur bread flour
  • 60 g einkorn flour
  • 234 g water, 90-95°F
  • 7 g sea salt
  • 60 g sourdough starter discard
  • 6 g additional water (optional)
to top
  • 4 g coarse salt
  • 9 g extra virgin olive oil (perhaps more to drizzle)

method

9 pm: autolyse
  • in a medium to large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30-60 minutes.
9:50 pm: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough, and pour additional water over the salt to encourage absorption. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • then, measure out discard starter (room temp or from fridge), and add to bowl. this is a very wet dough. mix using rubaud or slap and fold method until well incorporated, for about 6-7 minutes.
10 pm: bulk fermentation
  • this dough needs an overnight bulk rise at room temperature of about 10 – 12 hours, until the dough is doubled and bubbly, with 2 stretch and folds in the first 2 hours. i usually do one stretch and fold 30 min after mixing, and then another 30 minutes after that.
[next morning] 9:30 am: preheat
  • preheat oven to 500°F. this takes a while for my oven so i usually do it 30-45 minutes before i plan to bake. at this point the dough should be jiggly and bubbly!
10 am: shape
  • generously oil the bottom of a metal pan (whatever size pan you prefer or have. see notes for recommendations. these photos show a 9×13.)
  • turn the dough out carefully onto the greased pan.
  • using your fingers or knuckles, gently stretch the dough to the shape of the pan, until about 1/2 inch thick, dimpling the dough in the process.
10:04 am: top
  • top with any other toppings that suits your fancy: a head of roasted garlic, a couple sprigs of rosemary, a handful of zataar, grapes.
  • sprinkle coarse salt and drizzle olive oil, to taste on top of dimpled dough.
  • let rest for 5 minutes.
10:10 am: bake
  • bake at 500°F for 15 – 20 minutes, or until the top becomes golden brown.
10:30 am: slice & enjoy
  • let cool on rack for 5 minutes. enjoy while warm or at room temperature, on its own or with a meal.
fluffy sourdough chinese scallion pancakes 发面葱油饼

fluffy sourdough chinese scallion pancakes 发面葱油饼

🧧 happy lunar new year!!! 🧧

this past friday marked the beginning of the two week holiday period known as spring festival 春节, a huge celebration in mainland china to usher in the new year. festivities often include extravagant amounts of delicious food, a lot of quality family time, and even more echos of wishing each other health, happiness, and prosperity.

as a kid, my family used to gather with a few other chinese families in the greater twin cities area for a celebratory potluck dinner, where each family would bring their specialty dish, taking pride in their regional cuisine. raised in northern china where the food is more wheat based (rather than rice), my mom was known for her dumplings and flatbreads.

the apple don’t fall far from the tree i guess.

this recipe is a way to share a piece of my mother’s cooking and pride in our region. i adapted her yeasted scallion pancake 发面葱油饼 (fa mian cong you bing) recipe to use sourdough discard, and fell in love with the result. soft & fluffy on the inside with a perfectly umami laden & crispy exterior, this is a perfect way to get every last bit of leavening power from your sourdough starter discard.

fluffy sourdough discard scallion pancake cut into slices and stacked

notes

i went through a lot of trial and error with this recipe.

  • some variations that were successful: i’ve used discard both at room temp and straight out of the fridge. the water temperature listed in the recipe below is for discard straight out of the fridge. for room temp you can use water 90-95°F.
  • some that were less successful: this dough at a lower hydration doesn’t achieve the lightness we want, and the dough at a higher hydration becomes hard to roll out. i’d recommend sticking to 54-56%
  • i didn’t test an overnight refrigerated proof at all, but that could be interesting to experiment with.

importantly, i use discard from a stiff levain. please tweak flour and water proportions to accommodate for your levain’s hydration. as an example calculation:

  • my starter is 80% hydration with a 5:4:1 ratio of flour to water to starter. this means that 50g of starter is composed of about 28g flour and 22g water (or if you’re real nerdy like me, 50g = x + 0.8x, solve for x)
  • if your starter is 100% hydration (1:1:1 ratio), that means that 50g of starter is composed of 25g of flour and 25g of water. so to match the recipe, add 3g more flour and 3g less water. ta-da!

i also wrote a blog post about this math with a few helpful calculator tools!

lastly, if you enjoyed this, i’d so appreciate you taking a second to rate and leave a comment all the way at the bottom. i love hearing feedback and it brings me so much joy to know you’re making this recipe!

freshly cut scallions green onions

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour100%
water54%
unfed levain (discard)30%
steptime
first rise1 hour
second rise1 hour
proof1 hour
final rise1.5-2 hours
fry12-14 min
fluffy sourdough discard scallion pancake dough

fluffy sourdough discard chinese scallion pancakes 发面葱油饼

fluffy, chinese scallion pancakes are a yeasted flatbread typical of northern china. this delicious adaption is naturally leavened using sourdough discard.
Prep Time 6 minutes
Cook Time 14 minutes
Resting Time 5 hours
Total Time 5 hours 20 minutes

formula

dough formula
  • 165 g all purpose flour
  • 89 g water, 100°F
  • 50 g sourdough starter discard
filling
  • 10 g oil (olive, vegetable, or canola)
  • 3 g fine-grained salt
  • 25 g scallions, chopped finely (2-3 stalks)
optional topping
  • 1 handful sesame seeds

method

  • mix flour and water together until you see chunks and strands, but before it's come together completely. then, add the sourdough starter discard.
  • mix together completely, kneading lightly until dough forms a ball shape. leave in bowl and keep covered for 1 hour.
  • after an hour, knead lightly for 1 minute, until top appears smooth. Put back in bowl and cover again for 1 hour.
  • take dough out of bowl and knead lightly again for 1 minute. drizzle a small amount of oil on top to prevent sticking.
  • oil your working surface to ensure dough does not stick. using a rolling pin, roll out dough until about 1/2 in. thick. rest, covered, for 1 hour.
  • the dough should look slightly puffier. roll out again, like you're making cinnamon rolls, into a rectangular shape until about 1/4 in. thick.
  • drizzle oil evenly across rolled out dough. dab each corner towards the center and wiggle slightly to ensure that oil is evenly spread across dough. lightly sprinkle salt evenly across flat dough, and repeat with the scallions.
  • take the shorter end of the rectangle, and begin rolling up the rectangle like a jelly roll (or a fruit rollup or cinnamon rolls!). roll this tightly to achieve more layers — i recommend going pretty slowly to ensure getting the middle and edges.
  • once complete, shape the roll to form a coil. the end result should look like a circular snail's shell. tuck the end of the roll underneath the coil, and press firmly.
  • oil your working surface again to ensure dough does not stick. using a rolling pin, roll the final circle out slightly to form a 7-8 in circle. cover, and let rest for 1.5-2 hours.
  • the dough should look slightly domed when you uncover it. using a rolling pin, roll lightly until top is flat. you want to maintain the thickness, so careful not to compress. if desired, sprinkle an even layer of sesame seeds on both sides. using a light touch, roll over the sesame seed studded dough with your rolling pin to seal them in.
  • now you're ready to fry! turn your stove to high heat. take a skillet pan and coat the bottom with oil, and wait until oil sizzles.
  • when the oil sizzles, place the dough into the skillet pan. lower heat to medium-high and cook, covered, for 5 minutes. using a spatula, flip and cook other side for 5 minutes.
  • fry until sides are golden brown and crispy, about 2 more minutes per side.
  • when done, remove from skillet pan and let cool slightly before cutting in. serve warm along side vegetables, with a dipping sauce, or as a snack. enjoy the scallion pancake like you've never enjoyed the before.
seeded sourdough

seeded sourdough

we are officially in the thicket of winter, which for most people means a miserable period of darkness and coldness and wetness and <insert your other gloomy adjectives of choice>.

but from misery breeds opportunity i say! an opportunity to indulge and find comfort in all the warm, lovely carbohydrates. an opportunity to crank your oven up to the highest setting and to hover by it as the aromas and heat waft out of the kitchen.

that doesn’t so bad right?

this recipe for seeded sourdough is perfect for those who, like me, also reach for heartier, darker whole grains during the winter. packed with flavor and seeds, serve this loaf warm with a thick slab of butter or with your favorite instant pot stews.

notes

at first glance, the hydration might seem alarmingly high (85%), but the wheat flour absorbs it all and yields an extensible, pliable dough that isn’t sticky or hard to work with. i promise.

i’ve added a hefty portion of rye in addition to the whole wheat to add even more depth of flavor and to balance out water absorption a bit. when i think of my favorite seeded loaves (mostly dutch and german breads), rye is always there.

lastly, the seeds i’m using in the recipe are merely suggestions — i’ve opted for pumpkin, sunflower, hemp, and fennel seeds (the fennel in particular adds a beautiful flavor and i’d highly recommend if you are a fennel fan), but feel free to use whatever fits your fancy. i would recommend 40g of larger seeds and 20g of smaller seeds.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
whole wheat flour50%
bread flour35%
rye flour15%
water85%
salt2.5%
levain25%
seeds (dry)20%
steptime
levain build8 hours
bulk rise9 hours
folds3 folds
1 lamination
cold proof14 – 18 hours
bake45 minutes

seeded sourdough

4 seeds and 50% wheat yield a hearty winter loaf ready to sop up any shakshuka or soup that comes its way.

formula

levain build
  • 15 g levain
  • 15 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 60 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 60 g water @ 85°F
dough formula
  • 150 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 105 g king arthur flour bread flour
  • 45 g bob's red mill dark rye flour
  • 255 g water @ 90°F
  • 7 g sea salt
  • 75 g levain
multi-seed soaker
  • 20 g pumpkin seed
  • 20 g sunflower seed
  • 10 g hemp seed
  • 10 g fennel seed
multi-seed topper
  • 2 tbsp rolled oats
  • 1 tbsp pumpkin seeds
  • 1 tbsp sunflower seeds
  • 1 tbsp flax seeds

method

evening: prepare seeds
  • add seeds to a small jar, and cover with double the amount of water, about 120g. cover, and store in fridge overnight.
10:30 pm: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
[next morning] 6:30 am: autolyse
  • in a large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
7 am: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times. then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl. mix using the pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes. target final temperature should be 78 degrees.
7:10 am: bulk fermentation
  • this dough needs 1 lamination (see below) to incorporate the seeds, and 3 stretch and folds afterwards, spaced 45 minutes apart. in the wintertime with a room temperature of around 70°F, this dough needed a bulk rise of about 9 hours.
7:45 am: laminate in seeds
  • remove seed soaker from the fridge, and strain so there is no excess water.
  • spray a clean surface with water. dump out dough and stretch out onto wet surface, like you're making pizza.
  • sprinkle seed mixture onto dough evenly.
  • fold dough up section by section, until it resembles a stack.
  • incorporate seeds gently by mixing again using the pincer method for a few minutes.
3:30 pm: pre-shape (optional)
  • slowly transfer dough from bowl onto a lightly floured surface, so it lays out in a vaguely rectangular looking shape.
  • stretch the dough very lightly and gently fold it onto itself 4 times
3:40 pm: shape
  • i like shaping these like a batard, using what i like to call the "burrito method."
  • 1. gently tug the top, short end of the vaguely rectangular looking shape, and fold over a small section.
  • 2. grab a tiny bit of dough from the left side, and tug it over onto the right side. grab a tiny bit of dough from the right side and tug it over onto the left side. continue pattern downwards to form a stitch-like appearance.
  • 3. when you get close to the bottom end, fold over a small piece upwards. then do one final stitch to seal.
  • 4. take the top end of the burrito, and roll it over onto itself, kind of like a cinnamon roll.
  • 5. seal the ends by pinching the holes shut.
3:43 pm: coat
  • mix your multi-seed topper. i've included my ratio above, you can use whatever seeds or grains you'd like. just make sure these seeds are raw & untoasted — they'll get pretty toasty in the oven.
  • if the top of the dough is sticky enough, you should be able to grab a handful of your seed coating and directly cover the smooth face of the batard. if the top is not sticky enough, you can take a spray bottle and lightly spray the top until damp. then, the seed coating should pretty easily adhere to the dough.
3:45 pm: proof
  • lightly flour a lined bannetone or other proofing vesicle. flip the top of the dough over, and gently transfer the dough seam side up into the bannetone.
  • place bannetone inside of a blastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 16 hours.
[next morning] 7 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
7:55 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • scoring is tricky with this loaf because the seeds form a sort of crust on the proofed dough. i keep it simple with this loaf with just a single, vertical slash length wise, about 1/8" deep, and 1/4” away from both edges.
8 am: bake
  • transfer scored dough to dutch oven. decrease temperature to 485°F. with the lid on, bake for 30 minutes. then, decrease to 475°F and take the lid off. bake for about another 15 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a pretty deep brown).
11 am: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.

sourdough sticky buns

sourdough sticky buns

flour bakery in cambridge, ma was the first bakery i truly fell in love with. in college, i’d walk the 15 minutes from my dorm on tuesday late afternoons to order my usual breakfast sandwich and a pot of tea, sitting by window doing homework until whoever was closing that day had to politely ask me to leave (also can we agree that breakfast sandwiches are not just reserved for breakfast, and deserve to be eaten at any time of day?).

as an asian american woman who also grew up in flyover states and also went to university in boston, i consider joanne chang to be one of the greats, one of my life heroes.

i’ve adapted her original sticky bun recipe to include ripe sourdough starter rather than yeast. sourdough and brioche sweet bread might seem counter intuitive, but the sourdough doesn’t negatively affect the flavor at all.

whenever i eat these i first get hit by the melt-in-your-mouth gooey goodness, and then by a huge wave of nostalgia. i’m not sure which feeling i enjoy more, and i hope these do the same for you.

notes

like many brioche doughs, this is a fairly wet dough. don’t panic if it seems unwieldy! the dough strengthens with folds and refrigeration.

you could swap the heavy cream in the goo for whole milk, though you will end up with a much thinner (albeit still tasty) goo.

sticky buns are best eaten warm, within 4 hours of baking. share with friends and after a bite, you’ll be their favorite friend.

you can store them in an airtight container for up to 1 day and reheat with microwave or oven. i’ve also stashed them in the freezer for longer term storage. i swear they taste just as good straight out of the freezer, microwaved for a couple of minutes.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

baker’s percentages are percent weight relative to total flour, and refer to the dough only (excludes goo topping)

ingredientsbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour86%
bread flour14%
levain65%
whole milk48%
granulated sugar14%
egg32%
sea salt2.3%
butter16%
steptime
levain build8 hours
bulk rise4 hours
cold proof6 – 12 hours
final proof2 – 3 hours

sourdough sticky buns

pillowy soft cinnamon rolls topped with melt-in-you-mouth toasted pecan caramel goo. flour bakery's famous sticky sticky buns naturally leavened with sourdough.

formula

levain build
  • 25 g levain
  • 100 g water @ 85°F
  • 25 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 100 g king arthur all purpose flour
brioche dough
  • 300 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 50 g king arthur bread flour
  • 227 g levain
  • 170 g whole milk, room temp
  • 50 g granulated sugar
  • 2 large eggs
  • 8 g sea salt
  • 55 g butter, room temp
goo topping formula
  • 175 g butter
  • 275 g light brown sugar
  • 100 g honey
  • 80 g heavy cream
  • 80 g water
  • 2 g salt
  • 70 g chopped pecans, toasted
filling formula
  • 50 g light brown sugar
  • 30 g granulated sugar
  • 50 g chopped pecans, toasted
  • 1 g cinnamon (1/4 tsp)

method

8 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
3:20 pm: prepare brioche dough
  • cut your room temp butter into small, 1/4-inch chunks, and set aside.
  • using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle hook, combine the flours, levain, milk, sugar, salt, and the eggs. beat on low speed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until all the ingredients are combined.
  • pause the mixer as needed to scrape down the bowl to make sure all the flour is incorporated into the wet ingredients.
  • once the dough has come together, let dough rest for 10 minutes
  • then, using the dough hook attachment, work the dough on low speed for another 5 to 7 minutes.
  • slowly cut in the butter pieces on low speed, one piece at a time, until all the butter is incorporated, about 10-15 minutes. don't panic if the dough looks wet! resist the urge to add more flour. dough is done when it starts pulling away from the sides
4 pm: bulk fermentation
  • butter a large bowl with a lid, and transfer the dough. cover, and let dough rise for 4 hours at room temperature.
  • this dough needs 4 folds, one every hour.
8 pm: overnight cold bulk
  • let the dough continue rising, covered, overnight in the fridge, for at least 6 hours.
8:15 pm: prepare goo & pecans
  • in a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. whisk in the brown sugar while cooking, stirring to combine. it'll look separated, and that's ok.
  • remove from heat, and continue to whisk in the honey, cream, water, and salt.
  • let cool for at least 30 min, or until at room temperature. cover and store in fridge for up to 2 weeks.
  • toast 120 g pecans on a baking sheet at 350°F for 5-6 minutes, or until aromatic. let cool completely before storing. reserve 50 g for the filling and 70 g for topping.
[next morning] 6:30 am: prepare filling
  • in a small bowl, mix the sugars, cinnamon, and 50g of the pecans together.
6:35 am: shape
  • roll out the brioche dough (like pie crust) into a rectangle about 12 by 16 inches and 1/4-inch thick on a lightly floured surface. the dough should feel like cold, damp playdoh.
  • sprinkle the filling mixture evenly over the rolled out dough.
  • take the shorter end of the rectangle, and begin rolling up the rectangle like a jelly roll (or a fruit rollup!). roll this tightly to achieve a more defined spiral — i recommend going pretty slowly to ensure getting the middle and edges.
6:45 am: assemble
  • trim off the ends (about 1/4 in), so that the roll is even.
  • using a bench scraper, divide the roll into 8 pieces, about 1.5 inches wide per piece.
  • pour the goo into a 13×9 inch pan, covering the bottom. sprinkle the remaining pecans evenly across the goo.
  • place and arrange the buns evenly into the pan (4 wide and 2 across).
6:50 am: proof
  • cover the buns, and let rise in a warm place for 2 to 3 hours, until puffy, pillowy, and touching.
9:15 am: preheat
  • preheat oven to 350°F.
9:45 am: bake
  • place baking pan on middle rack and bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until buns look golden brown.
  • let buns cool on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes before serving.
10:15 am: serve & enjoy
  • sticky buns are best eaten within 4 hours of baking! to serve, invert buns one at a time onto serving dish, and spoon extra goo on top. sprinkle additional toasted pecans if desired, and enjoy!
everything bagel sourdough

everything bagel sourdough

my only childhood bagel experiences were the day old, half priced bruegger’s asiago bagels my friends and i would sneak out of statistics class to buy at our high school cafeteria. when i moved to nyc, i entered the bagel mecca itself, and oh i had much. to. learn.

i learned not to toast the good ones (the sacrilege!).

i learned that pumpernickel had no association with leprechauns (ok but doesn’t it conjure up the image?).

i learned that the bagel could, and should, be used as a vehicle to consume many other delicious things, like peanut butter, or smoked salmon, or scallion cream cheese (but absolutely no vegetables allowed except for red onions, nuh uh).

this sourdough is an homage to nyc, my home for the last 4 years. it’s encrusted with the everything seasoning we know and love, with a higher percentage of rye and spelt for that familiar tang.

for maximal stickiness, cover the sticky dough with the seasoning post-shape and pre-flour. if you find the seasoning falling off, you can try wetting it a little bit before covering the dough with seasoning by spraying a bit of water.

everything bagel sourdough

the familiar sweet, salty, and savory flavors of an everything bagel paired with a rye-spelt sourdough

formula

levain build
  • 20 g levain
  • 20 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 80 g water @ 85°F
dough formula
  • 164 g king arthur bread flour
  • 100 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 33 g bob's red mill rye flour
  • 33 g spelt flour
  • 257 g water @ 90°F
  • 8 g sea salt
  • 80 g levain
  • 7 g additional water
everything seasoning topper
  • 3 tbsp poppy seeds
  • 3 tbsp sesame seeds
  • 3 tbsp coarse salt
  • 2 tbsp dried minced garlic
  • 2 tbsp dried minced onion

method

11 pm: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
[next morning] 7 am: autolyse
  • in a separate large bowl, mix all flours together.
  • slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
7:30 am: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough, and pour additional water over it to help the salt absorb. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • measure out the ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix using the pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes. target final temperature should be 78 degrees.
7:37 am: bulk fermentation
  • this dough bulks for about 8 hrs during spring/fall, longer if your kitchen runs cool or during winter, and shorter if your kitchen runs warm or during the summer.
  •  this dough needs 3-4 stretch and folds (or coil folds), and a round of lamination after the first fold, spaced about 45 minutes apart if possible.
3:20 pm: pre-shape
  • slowly transfer dough from bowl onto a lightly floured surface, so it lays out in a vaguely rectangular looking shape.
  • stretch the dough very lightly and gently fold it onto itself 4 times
3:30 pm: shape
  • i like shaping these like a batard, using what i like to call the "burrito method."
  • 1. gently tug the top, short end of the vaguely rectangular looking shape, and fold over a small section.
  • 2. grab a tiny bit of dough from the left side, and tug it over onto the right side. grab a tiny bit of dough from the right side and tug it over onto the left side. continue pattern downwards to form a stitch-like appearance.
  • 3. when you get close to the bottom end, fold over a small piece upwards. then do one final stitch to seal.
  • 4. take the top end of the burrito, and roll it over onto itself, kind of like a cinnamon roll.
  • 5. seal the ends by pinching the holes shut.
3:33 pm: coat
  • mix your own everything seasoning using the ratio listed, or buy some from trader joe's.
  • take a handful of the everything seasoning blend, and cover the smooth face of the shaped dough. if the smooth side is not sticky enough, take a spray bottle and lightly spray until just damp. the everything seasoning should adhere to the dough.
3:35 pm: proof
  • lightly flour a lined bannetone or other proofing vesicle. flip the top of the dough over, and gently transfer the dough seam side up into the bannetone.
  • place bannetone inside of a plastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 14-18 hours.
[next morning] 5:30 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
6:25 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • optional: sprinkle coarse corn meal on the bottom.
  • flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • scoring is tricky with this loaf because the everything seasoning forms a sort of crust on the proofed dough. i keep it simple with this loaf with just a single, vertical slash length wise, about 1/8" deep, and 1/4” away from both edges.
6:30 am: bake
  • transfer scored dough to dutch oven. decrease temperature to 485°F. with the lid on, bake for 30 minutes. then, decrease to 475°F and take the lid off. bake for another 15-20 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a pretty deep brown).
9:30 am: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.

guava cream cheese sourdough

guava cream cheese sourdough

peanut butter and jelly. apples and cheddar. chocolate milk shakes and fries. these are the three iconic sweet savory duos from my american childhood.

as i’ve had the opportunity to travel and try new foods in the past 10 years, i’ve discovered a variety of other iconic sweet savory duos: tahini and date spread in israel, matcha and red bean in asia, guava and cream cheese in latin america — the inspiration behind this lovely loaf.

guava is a small tropical fruit, with a light green waxy exterior and a soft, seeded, pink interior, with a texture similar to a soft pear. guava paste tastes kinda like strawberry jam with a hint of pear, and is usually sold in rectangular brick form. thankfully, this makes it way easier to cube.

the savory from the cream cheese beautifully counteracts the sweetness from the guava, all of which is encompassed in a soft, fluffy bread.

best enjoyed on its own as a dessert, snack, or breakfast. be prepared to audibly react to the deliciousness. don’t sleep on this pro-tip: makes for an amazing base for french toast after a couple of days.

notes

i use king arthur bread flour, trader joe’s all purpose, bob’s red mill rye, and farmer ground flour einkorn. i got guava paste from food bazaar, but it’s also available on amazon.

please adjust your levain and bulk times for when your kitchen is colder or warmer, about 1 hour more during the winter and 1 hour less during the summer.

i’ve included a video of the lamination technique, using @fullproofbaking’s lamination method.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
bread flour45%
all purpose flour45%
einkorn* flour5%
rye flour5%
water80%
salt2.5%
levain22%
guava paste30%
cream cheese30%
steptime
levain build7 hours
bulk rise8 hours
folds3 folds
cold proof14 – 18 hours
bake45 minutes

*can sub einkorn for whole wheat

guava cream cheese sourdough

a generous nod to, and bread interpretation, of the beloved latin american pastry, pastelitos de guayaba.

formula

levain build
  • 20 g levain
  • 20 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 80 g water @ 85-90°F
dough formula
  • 200 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 200 g king arthur bread flour
  • 20 g bob's red mill rye flour
  • 20 g einkorn flour
  • 345 g water @ 90-95°F
  • 100 g levain
  • 9 g sea salt
  • 7 g additional water
laminated mix-in
  • 130 g cream cheese cubed
  • 130 g guava paste cubed

method

11 pm: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula and stiff starter method.
[next morning] 7 am: autolyse
  • in a separate large bowl, mix all flours together.
  • slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
7:30 am: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough, and pour additional water over it to help the salt absorb. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • measure out the ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix using the pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes. target final temperature should be 78 degrees.
7:37 am: bulk fermentation
  • this dough bulks for about 8 hrs during spring/fall, longer if your kitchen runs cool or during winter, and shorter if your kitchen runs warm or during the summer.
  • this dough needs 3 stretch and folds, plus a round of lamination to incorporate the guava paste and cream cheese after the 1st fold, spaced about 45 minutes apart if possible. alternatively, you may also perform coil folds, at about the same cadence.
9 am: lamination
  • cut cream cheese and guava paste into cubes of equal size, around 3/4 to 1 inch.
  • perform lamination by first stretching dough like a pizza crust, and then spreading cream cheese and guava chunks evenly across the dough. fold into a rectangular shape.
3 pm: shape
  • i like to shape these like boules. stretch and fold the dough onto itself, rotating in a circular motion like you are doing a regular stretch and fold.
  • when it resembles a fist, flip it over onto itself. flour the top lightly, and then use both hands to drag the bottom about 6 inches to build in tension. this should result in a spherical, ball-like shape.
3:05 pm: proof
  • lightly flour a lined bannetone or proofing baske. gently transfer the dough seam side up to the bannetone. cover with a plastic bag, and put in fridge overnight for 14-18 hrs.
[next morning] 5:30 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
6:30 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • scoring is tricky with this loaf because of the lumpiness of the cream cheese and guava paste. i keep it simple with this loaf with just a single, vertical slash length wise, about 1/8" deep, and 1/4” away from both edges.
6:30 am: bake
  • transfer scored dough to dutch oven. decrease temperature to 485°F. with the lid on, bake for 30 minutes. then, decrease to 475°F and take the lid off. bake for another 15-20 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a medium brown with this loaf).
9:30 am: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.
turmeric onion sourdough

turmeric onion sourdough

venturing into the unknown world of mix-ins and non-flour/water/salt ingredients has always intimidated me. i get nervous about the crumb closing, or the additional ingredients weighing the dough down, or the dough becoming way too sticky.

i didn’t approach experimentation as a way to be creative, as a way to keep developing my craft, a way to learn more about sourdough. i was more nervous about messing up a few times.

i let these thoughts hold me back from trying a bunch of new, fun things — until this year 🙂

the inspiration behind this loaf comes from a baker i really admire in this regard, @fullproofbaking. her beautifully curated, colorful instagram feed showcases many, many unique flavor combinations, the kinds that i’m always dying to try, but scared to.

when i saw this loaf on her feed, it gave me the final push to adapt and bake this yellow, punchy turmeric onion sourdough. this bread is soft, fragrant, and carries so much flavor on its own. i’d recommend eating it plain, the same day it’s baked, untoasted.

here’s to doing all the things that scare us — especially (i’d like to think) if the thing that scares us involves baking lovely, delicious things into bread.

notes

don’t skip the lamination step — it builds strength and yields a wonderful open crumb and soft, light texture. for lamination pointers, check out the video in my guava cream cheese recipe.

you could use oil instead of butter to sautee the onions, but i’m partial to butter (self explanatory).

as always, tweak levain and bulk times for when your kitchen is colder or warmer. for me this means closer to 9 hours in the winter, and 7 hours in the summer.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
bread flour65%
all purpose flour25%
whole wheat flour10%
levain 25%
water78%
salt2.5%
turmeric powder0.7%
caramelized onion25%
steptime
levain build8 hrs
bulk rise8 hrs
folds 3 folds
1 lamination
cold proof12 – 16 hrs
bake45 – 50 min

tumeric onion sourdough

flavorful savory loaf with caramelized onions, sporting a brilliant yellow hue

formula

levain build
  • 20 g levain
  • 80 g water @ 85-90°F
  • 20 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur all purpose flour
dough formula
  • 260 g king arthur bread flour
  • 100 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 40 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 3 g turmeric powder (1.5 tsp)
  • 342 g water @ 90-95°F
  • 10 g fine sea salt
  • 100 g ripe starter
lamination
  • 100 g caramelized onions (200 g raw)

method

8 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method: reserve 20 g of levain, discard the rest, and add in water. mix thoroughly with spoon, or hands. then add the flours, mixing thoroughly again until all flour is absorbed.
8:30 am: prepare onions
  • dice raw onions. melt 1 tbsp butter into saute pan, and cook onions on low heat for about 20 minutes, or until they are golden/caramel color. make sure there is minimal crowding in the pan. let cool completely.
3 pm: autolyse
  • in a separate large bowl, mix all flours and tumeric together.
  • slowly add water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
3:30 pm: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix using the pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes. target final temperature should be 78 degrees.
3:37 pm: bulk fermentation
  • this dough bulks for about 8 hrs during spring/fall, longer if your kitchen runs cool or during winter, and shorter if your kitchen runs warm or during the summer. 
  • this dough needs 3 stretch and folds, and a round of lamination after the first fold to incorporate the onions, spaced about 45 minutes apart if possible. alternatively, you may also perform coil folds, at about the same cadence.
11:30 pm: shape
  • slowly transfer dough from bowl on to lightly floured surface, so it lays out in a rectangular shape. at this point, feel free to use your favorite shaping method. lately, i've been using a simple one: gently grab two horizontal ends and tug. fold the sides onto itself, so it looks like a taquito. then, grab the top and roll it in the other direction, like a burrito.
11:35 pm: proof
  • lightly flour a lined bannetone/proofing basket or generously flour an unlined one. gently transfer the dough seam side up to the bannetone. cover with a plastic bag, and put in fridge for 12-16 hrs.
[next morning] 10 am: preheat
  • preheat oven to 495°F and place a 5-6 qt lidded dutch oven inside.
11 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test.
  • sprinkle coarse corn meal on the bottom (optional), and flip out onto a cut sheet of parchment paper
  • using a lame, score length wise, about 1/8" deep, and 1/2" away from both edges. sometimes, i optionally add a leaf design as well.
11:05 am: bake
  • slowly and carefully lift the parchment paper with the dough into the hot dutch oven. decrease temperature to 475°F. bake for 30 minutes with the lid on.
  • take the lid off, and bake for another 15-20 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a caramel brown for this loaf, or whenever the ears look brown).
2 pm: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.
30% einkorn sourdough

30% einkorn sourdough

2019 has been the year of einkorn. i am nothing short of obsessed.

this is how serious it is: i haven’t been able to stop thinking about it since trying a 100% einkorn sample loaf from bread alone at last year’s growNYC home baker’s meetup in march 2018. i even splurged on a 2 lb bag of nice, local flour milled from farmer ground flour. $7 is not chump change when it comes to a small bag of flour.

einkorn is an “ancient grain”, in the same family as emmer and spelt. it’s known as the oldest variety of wheat, and also for its friendliness to folks with gluten sensitivities. i love it for its nutty taste (which comes through very strongly in higher percentages), and the softness it gives my bread.

speaking of which, this bread is SO soft — and i would really recommend eating it at least once un-toasted.

i love eating a slice of this with an egg for breakfast, dipped in a butternut squash soup, or honestly just with a pat of butter. it eats well plain, but also holds up well to toppings. i bet it would be amazing with some hummus and vegetables.

i have also cut this bread into cubes, let it dry out over a couple days, and made a savory kale, mushroom, parmesan bread pudding.

this recipe assumes you’re familiar with some basic processes already, and already have your own starter. i plan to write about both of these things in future posts, but haven’t gotten there quite yet. thanks for your patience!

bakers percentage & recommended schedule

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

a note on seasonal adjustments: tweak levain and bulk times for when your kitchen is colder or warmer. for example, in the winter, i increase levain to 29%, bulk to 8/8.5 hrs, and in the summer, i decrease levain back to 25% and bulk for shorter — maybe 7 hrs. this will totally change depending on how your kitchen carries heat.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
bread flour60%
einkorn flour30%
all purpose flour10%
water80%
salt2.5%
levain28%
steptime
levain build8 hours
bulk rise8 hours
folds4
cold proof11 – 12 hours
bake45 minutes

30% einkorn sourdough

a very soft, mild yet flavorful loaf with a crumb that can hold its own against toppings

formula

levain build
  • 20 g levain
  • 20 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur all purpose or bread flour
  • 80 g water @ 85-90°F
dough formula
  • 132 g farmer ground flour einkorn flour
  • 264 g king arthur bread flour
  • 44 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 345 g water @ 90-95 degrees F
  • 11 g fine sea salt
  • 126 g levain (less in summertime, this is for winter)

method

6 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method: reserve 20 g of levain, discard the rest, and add in water. mix thoroughly with spoon, or hands. then add the flours, mixing thoroughly again until all flour is absorbed.
1 pm: autolyse
  • in a separate large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
1:30 pm: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix using the pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes. target final temperature should be 78 degrees.
1:37 pm: bulk fermentation
  • his dough bulks for about 8-8.5 hrs during winter months when my kitchen tends to be cool, 7.5 hrs during spring/fall, and even shorter if your kitchen runs warm. this dough needs 3-4 stretch and folds, about every 45 minutes if possible. alternatively, you may also perform coil folds, at about the same cadence.
9:55 pm: shape
  • slowly transfer dough from bowl on to lightly floured surface, so it lays out in a rectangular shape. at this point, feel free to use your favorite shaping method. lately, i've been using a simple one: gently grab two horizontal ends and tug. fold the sides onto itself, so it looks like a taquito. then, grab the top and roll it in the other direction, like a burrito.
  • optional: coat with sesame seeds. the nuttiness from the sesame seeds and einkorn pair so perfectly together.
10 pm: proof
  • lightly flour a lined bannetone/proofing basket or generously flour an unlined one. gently transfer the dough seam side up to the bannetone. cover with a plastic bag, and put in fridge for 11-12 hrs.
[next morning] 9 am: preheat
  • preheat oven to 495°F and place a 5-6 qt lidded dutch oven inside.
9:55 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge. optional: sprinkle coarse corn meal on the bottom. then, flip out onto a cut sheet of parchment paper. using a lame, score length wise, about 1/8" deep, and 1/2" away from both edges. i like to add a leaf design on this loaf as well.
10 am: bake
  • slowly and carefully lift the parchment paper with the dough into the hot dutch oven. decrease temperature to 475°F. bake for 30 minutes with the lid on.
  • take the lid off, and bake for another 15 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it. i go for a deep brown for this loaf.
1 pm: slice & enjoy
  • cut into loaf and enjoy! i like to wait at least 1.5 hours before slicing