a gluten-forward food diary

Tag: savory

pumpkin sourdough

pumpkin sourdough

a post-vaccine life motto i’ve adopted: seek more opportunities to turn ordinary moments into special ones.

i buy all the flowers at the farmers market stand as it closes and cover every surface of my apartment with them. i lug bushels of apples home to make apple crisp in batches, dropping in on my friends on a random tuesday for a special delivery. i thrift a red dress that makes me feel like the 💃🏻 emoji, muster all the main-character-energy i can, and stroll around nyc in it without a so-called occasion.

i find myself delighting in the ability to infuse this everyday magic into the familiar, worn grooves of routine, in a way i have never felt before.

there is something that feels so fun, so dramatic, so extra about decorative sourdough.

unlike a cake, bread isn’t often thought of as pretty. maybe that’s why i’m even more appreciative of those who have made sourdough an art.

it’s decorative gourd season y’all. let’s make sourdough pumpkins!

notes

i’ve wanted to try this pumpkin shaping ever since i saw it on my instagram feed last year.

my variations:

  • added a dash of turmeric for additional color in the dough, and subtle flavor
  • saved and dried a butternut squash nub to top the final loaf for additional flourish
  • included actual pumpkin puree during the autolyse for the full pumpkin effect

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
bread flour70%
whole wheat flour15%
all purpose flour15%
water72%
salt2.5%
levain24%
pumpkin20%
turmeric & spices0.75%

steptime
levain build6 hours
bulk rise8 hours
folds4-5 folds
cold proof12 – 14 hours
bake45 minutes

pumpkin sourdough

a decorative sourdough for all your fall feels. tastes like pumpkin soup in bread form, looks like a pumpkin.

formula

levain build
  • 15 g unfed levain
  • 15 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 60 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 60 g water @ 85°F
dough formula
  • 280 g king arthur bread flour
  • 60 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 60 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 1 tsp turmeric powder
  • 0.5 tsp ginger or garam masala powder (optional)
  • 288 g water @ 95°F
  • 80 g pumpkin puree
  • 10 g sea salt
  • 96 g ripe levain
special equipment
  • 96" baker's twine
  • neutral oil
  • scissors
  • butternut squash top stub, dried & baked

method

7 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
12 pm: autolyse
  • in a large bowl, mix all flours, turmeric powder, and ginger powder together.
  • in another bowl, mix the pumpkin puree with the water. stir well so pumpkin puree is evenly distributed in the liquid mixture. note: you want the resulting temperature of the liquid to be about 93°F. i gradually added water to my pumpkin puree until i reached that temperature.
  • slowly add the liquid mixture into the flour mixture, mixing with a rubber spatula. make sure to incorporate the liquid into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated.
  • let sit, covered, for 60 minutes.
1 pm: bulk fermentation
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times. then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix, alternating between using the rubaud and pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes.
  • let dough rise at room temp until it is about 1.5x in size and appears gaseous, about 8 hours in the fall.
  • this dough needs 4-5 sets of coil folds, spaced 45 min apart, starting at the beginning.
  • sample schedule:
    – 1:45 pm fold #1
    – 2:30 pm fold #2
    – 3:15 fold #3
    – 4 pm fold #4
9 pm: shape
  • i like to shape these as a round boule.
  • on a generously floured surface, gently guide dough onto the table.
  • first tug and fold the dough lightly on itself in each direction: top, left, right, bottom, like you're folding up paper.
  • then, repeat to create a more tightly formed
9:05 pm: proof
  • generously flour an lined round bannetone. flip the dough over with a bench knife, and gently transfer the dough, seasm side up, into the bannetone.
  • if the seam has come undone, stitch it back together.
  • lightly flour the top of the dough.
  • place bannetone inside of a plastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 12 – 14 hours.
[next morning] 10 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
10:50 am: shaping part ii
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • cut 4 pieces of baker's twine, each 24" in length. dip or cover each piece in vegetable oil. remove excess oil with fingers.
  • while the dough is still in the bannetone, lay each piece of twine on top across the center, so that the strings create an asterick shape.
  • flip the dough out onto a precut piece of parchment paper
  • gather the pieces of twine on dough top, and then loosely tie together. i left just under an inch of room for my dough to expand while baking.
  • for an extra flourish, score each section with a leaf pattern using a lame.
  • watch the video above for full demonstration.
11 am: bake
  • transfer scored dough to dutch oven.
  • decrease temperature to 475°F. with the lid on, bake for 30 minutes. then, take the lid off. bake for another 12 – 15 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a medium brown).
  • let this loaf full cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate).
  • after crust is no longer hot to the touch (after 30 min), remove the strings by cutting them.
2 pm: slice & enjoy
  • optional: place your dried butternut squash stem flat on top of the loaf before serving.
  • let loaf cool for at least 3 hours before slicing.
cheddar dill sourdough rolls

cheddar dill sourdough rolls

i’ve always considered dill to be a second tier herb.

my mother cooked with a multitude of herbs, often, even growing chives and green onions in our backyard.

during peak harvest times, my mother would cook nothing but chives for weeks at a time — chive dumplings, chive bao zi, chive pockets. she fed it all to my brother and i until we became bloated from the fiber.

dill just never had a place in my pantry. never harmonized with the warming notes of our rotation of ginger, star anise, and chilis, never made it into our cart during our biweekly trips to shanghai supermarket.

in the past few months, however, i’ve been flirting a lot with dill. a dill-less salad now feels naked, like it’s missing an ingredient as crucial as the lettuce itself. i’ll never leave another PLS ungarnished.

above all, i’ve become hooked on the combination of cheese and dill after trying a roll from la farine.

with the feedback of over seven taste testers, i’ve developed a delicate, puffy, pizza-crust like roll that similarly centers cheddar and dill.

this roll has a crisp and thin crust, encrusted with thinly shredded cheddar and speckled with fresh dill. bready walls surround a small divet where the cheddar pools and bubbles. when you bite in, it’s like eating a sauceless, herby micro pizza.

no matter where you are in your relationship with dill, these rolls will make you fall in love all over again. bread and cheese tend to have that kind of effect.

notes

the secret to the perfect texture and bite is using olive oil instead of flour while shaping! it is of utmost importance that you use as little flour as possible during this step!

i encourage swapping the dill for chives or scallions for a different flavor profile. in fact, i’ve tested this with scallions and the result is just as wonderful (see the three rolls in the left corner of the cover photo).

though i haven’t tried it, gruyere could also be a nice cheese accompaniment to the dill.

if your cheddar is on the saltier side, i would skip the extra salt. the cheddar i used was pretty mild.

as always, my starter is 80% hydration. please adjust the dough formula to match your starter. all timing and schedules are suggestions. i developed this recipe in springtime san francisco kitchen at about 74°F.

baker’s percentage & sample timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
bread flour95%
whole wheat flour5%
water78%
salt2.5%
levain24%
cheddar cheese32%
fresh dill4%
steptime
levain build6 hours
bulk rise8-9 hours
folds6 folds
cold proof16 hours
bake15 min
cheddar dill rolls

cheddar dill sourdough rolls

makes 8 small rolls encrusted with thinly shredded cheddar and speckled with fresh dill featuring bready walls surrounding a small pool of bubbly, herby cheese.

formula

levain build
  • 8 g unfed levain
  • 8 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 32 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 32 g water @ 85°F
dough formula
  • 190 g king arthur bread flour
  • 10 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 156 g water @ 95°F
  • 5 g salt
  • 48 g ripe levain
  • extra virgin olive oil
to top
  • 64 g sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
  • 8 g fresh dill, chopped finely
  • 1 tsp salt (optional, to taste)

method

  • dill and cheddar
8 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using the levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
  • in my current kitchen of 74°F, it takes about 5-6 hrs for my starter to ripen. in a cold wintertime 60°F kitchen, it might take closer to 10 hrs.
1 pm: autolyse
  • in a large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated.
  • let sit, covered, for 30-60 minutes.
1:45 pm: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over the autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • then, measure out the ripe starter, and add to the bowl.
  • with wet hands, mix. i first use the pincer method. then, i alternate between the stretch & fold and the slap & fold method for about 6-7 minutes.
1:50 pm: bulk fermentation
  • let dough rise until it is 1.2x in volume and appears gaseous, about 8-9 hours in a 74°F kitchen.
  • this dough needs 5-6 sets of coil folds, spaced 30-45 min apart, starting at the beginning.
  • sample schedule:
    – 2:30 pm fold #1
    – 3:00 pm fold #2
    – 3:30 pm fold #3
    – 4:00 pm fold #4
    – 4:45 pm fold #5
    – 5:30 pm fold #6
10 pm: divide & shape
  • choose a large plate or vessel to place your final 8 dough balls. remember that they'll expand a little in the fridge.
  • generously oil the bottom (and sides) of the vessel. oil will act as the primary non-stick agent.
  • using as little flour as possible, dust a working surface. gently dump the dough onto your lightly floured surface.
  • again, using as little flour as possible, divide the dough into 8 even pieces. i keep cutting pieces evenly in half until i reach 8.
  • if your fingers are sticking to the dough, cover them lightly in oil.
  • one by one, use the stretch and fold method to form a ball with a tightly closed bottom. flip the ball, seam side down, on an unfloured surface. tug gently and twist slightly to seal.
  • generously oil the top and sides of the dough ball before placing into your vessel. repeat with all 8 balls.
10:15 pm: proof
  • once the balls are shaped, cover them with plastic wrap, or place the entire vessel in a sealed, extra large, gallon ziploc bag.
  • whatever you use, you'll want to make sure the seal is airtight and that they are completely covered so they do not dry out (this means cloth does not work).
  • place in fridge and proof for 14-16 hours.
[next day] 12:55 pm: preheat & prep
  • preheat oven to 500°F.
  • to make the topping, mix the thinly shredded cheddar cheese together with dill. add salt, if needed, to taste.
1 pm: shape, again
  • remove the dough balls from the fridge. they should look like they held their shape for the most part, and like they have expanded slightly.
  • cover a sheet pan with parchment paper.
  • with oiled hands, take one dough ball and set onto the sheet pan, remembering to leave space for all the others.
    cheddar roll shaping part 1
  • cheddar roll shaping part 2
  • using your thumb, indent the center of the dough so that it makes an imprint. using your other fingers, press to widen the indent so it makes a divet, about the size of a quarter.
  • moving quickly, take a small scoop of the cheese topping and press it into the divet you just formed. it is totally normal for the divet to start closing immediately! not to worry at all. just use your fingers to press the topping in.
  • gently cover the rest of the roll with additional cheese mixture.
  • repeat with all the remaining rolls until you have all 8 evenly filled and evenly spaced out on the sheet pan.
    shaped and topped buns ready for baking
1:15 pm: bake
  • place sheet pan on middle rack of oven.
  • bake at 500°F for 5 minutes. then, lower to 475°F and bake for an additional 10 min. you'll want the cheese to look golden or golden brown, but not dark brown or burnt.
1:45 pm: enjoy!
  • let cool for 15 minutes. serve immediately by themselves, or with some beer & pickles.
  • store up to a few days in a tupperware container.
  • to reheat, pop in the microwave for 15 seconds or in the air fryer for a few minutes.

sourdough rosemary crackers

sourdough rosemary crackers

the last time i lived close to wilderness, i was 11. i had a patch of wood in my backyard. a small, trickling creek ran through it. wild turkeys, the size of vacuum cleaners, would often visit.

life whisked me away to more and more urban areas until life found me in the berkeley hills this winter. here, i once again remembered what it was to notice.

how to greet the bickering crows. how to spectate the scurrying squirrels. how to pay attention, in wonder.

at least once a week, too, i would walk down the street to ascend a steep, winding dirt trail above claremont canyon. what started as a simple hike became a stumbling prayer of gratitude.

i learned to recognize the wild rosemary bushes near the top. i began to visit often. when the bushes looked healthy and weren’t flowering, i would pick a few sprigs, taking home a piece of the mountain with me.

when the world gifts something as magical as fresh, wild rosemary, what else is there to do but to share something with the world in return? how do we show gratitude for gifts such as these?

this recipe is my offering. perhaps you, too, will pause when your hands run over the sprigs of rosemary, and when you smell it filling up the crevices of your home.

this ritual has become my small, delicious meditation on all the magic that grows from the earth. i hope it becomes yours too.

notes

i wasn’t planning on re-visiting sourdough crackers. i’ve already written two recipes.

yet i knew there were a few issues i needed to resolve: dryness, thickness, toughness of bite, blandness. this updated recipe addresses all these shortcomings with a wetter, more flavorful dough.

these sourdough rosemary crackers roll out into thin sheets more easily, and bake up more crisply. i am generous with the rosemary. they are pretty, they are aromatic, and they are delicious.

ingredients matter.

  • i strongly encourage you to use fresh rosemary over dried, and flaky salt to top.
  • i haven’t tried adding other herbs or spices, but i encourage experimentation!
  • one exception: if you plan on adding seeds, nuts, or other chunkier toppings, i’d recommend adding it at the end, while rolling out the dough rather than mixing it in. revisit my everything cracker recipe for more details on this process.

lastly but not leastly, i have a stiff starter at 80% hydration. please do adjust the amount of flour if yours differs.

Sourdough Rosemary Crackers

sourdough rosemary crackers

these crispy, aromatic crackers are the perfect way to use up large amounts of sourdough discard. they are the perfect addicting combination of salty, savory, and tangy.

formula

  • 1 cup unfed sourdough starter, 80% hydration (254 g)
  • ¾ cup whole wheat flour (98 g)
  • 4 tbsp olive oil (32 g)
  • 4 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary (12 g)
  • tsp kosher salt (5 g)
  • 1 tbsp-ish flaky sea salt (to top, to taste)

method

  • cracker dough
  • combine starter, flour, oil, rosemary, and kosher salt together in a medium sized bowl. dough should be soft and pliable, not wet and sticky, nor dry and stiff.
  • knead into a ball for 1-2 min. cover and let rest for at least 1 hr, up to overnight at room temperature. i usually let it rest for 4 hrs.
  • preheat oven to 350°F. take out 2 baking sheets and set aside.
  • generously flour your surface. i use wheat flour, but you can use whatever flour you have on hand.
  • divide dough into 4 sections with a bench knife.
  • take one section of the dough.
  • as if you were rolling out pie crust or pasta, roll out each dough section into a thin, flat, rectangular piece. you want to roll out your crackers as thin as you can without the dough tearing when lifting. go as thin as you can go! flip over and rotate as needed to get an even thickness.
  • place 2 flat dough pieces horizontally per baking sheet. i smoosh the edges together so they become one piece.
  • top with flaky salt, to taste. i usually use a bit less than 1 tbsp to cover all 4 sections.
  • using a knife or pizza cutter, cut dough into approx. 2" x 2" squares.
  • bake for 20-25 minutes on the middle rack, or until crackers turn golden and are crispy. rotate halfway through if your oven heats unevenly. these can burn or overbake quite quickly so take care to check on them.
  • crackers may firm up a bit once out of the oven. let cool on a cooling rack for at least 15 minutes before eating.
sourdough cheese rolls

sourdough cheese rolls

i ended last year hung up on three things.

the first: a boy (isn’t it always?). quarantine fact: break ups are much, much harder during a global pandemic when there is not much else to do except sit on a rollercoaster ride of uncomfortable feelings and thought patterns.

the second: brooklyn. seeking proximity to family and an escape from the impending winter, i left new york. quarantine fact: there’s nothing like cinematic nostalgia to leave you on the ground curled up in a blanket burrito, sobbing. watching dash & lily destroyed me.

last, but certainly not least: my beloved arizmendi cheese rolls. back in august, i had scoured the internet for the recipe. i had racked my brain for the taste profile of the cheese. quarantine fact: i had tasted cheesy, bready greatness and i could not go back.

luckily, when i moved last month i discovered cheeseboard, arizmendi’s sister bakery. needless to say, i have since consumed many a cheese roll. luckily, this also had the happy side effect of mitigating the first two aforementioned hang ups. a small sacrifice in the name of research.

after much neighborly taste testing, i’m confident this formula produces a remarkable likeness to the original cheese roll, with improvements. i feel i’m doing a similar type of analysis and reconstruction for the other parts of my life. basking in the sunny, warm winter days. reconnecting with old friends over focaccia. trekking through miles of redwood forest.

i’m not saying these cheese rolls have magically cured my afflictions, though i notice progress everyday.

all i’m saying is this. if even one person is spared from the sadness that is a life without cheese rolls, then my work here will have been worth it.

notes

as always, please adjust the formula based on the hydration of your starter, and adjust the timing of the bulk rise based on the temperature of your kitchen. please treat all times listed below as a sample schedule. this recipe was developed during the winter, in a 60 degree kitchen at 50% humidity.

you might be tempted to use a different type of cheese. i strongly recommend you resist this urge. asiago cheese just hits different. i repeat. these rolls will not have the intended flavor without asiago.

as per my other experiences baking with cheese, parchment paper is a must! melty cheese can easily crust over.

this recipe preserves all of the loveability of these iconic rolls while also providing a softer bite, lighter texture, and smaller size. i’m especially excited about this recipe, and i hope you all will be too.

baker’s percentage & sample timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour50%
bread flour30%
whole wheat flour20%
water75%
salt2.5%
levain24%
asiago cheese35%
steptime
levain build9 hours
bulk rise12 hours
folds3 folds
proof2 hours
bake20-25 min

sourdough cheese rolls

sourdough asiago cheese rolls inspired by one of my favorite pastries at the iconic co-op bakeries cheeseboard collective in berkeley and arizmendi bakery in san francisco.

formula

levain build
  • 10 g unfed levain
  • 10 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 40 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 40 g water @ 85°F
dough formula
  • 150 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 90 g king arthur bread flour
  • 60 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 225 g water @ 95°F
  • 7 g sea salt
  • 75 g ripe levain
add-ins
  • 90 g asiago cheese (shredded)

method

9:30 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method. in wintertime in a cold 60°F kitchen, it takes ~10 hrs for my starter to ripen. in a summertime kitchen, it might take closer to 6 hrs.
7:15 pm: autolyse
  • in a large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30-60 minutes.
8 pm: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times. then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix using the pincer and stretch & fold method for about 6-7 minutes.
  • let dough rise overnight at room temp until it doubles and appears gaseous, ~12 hours in the wintertime (cold kitchen ~60°F), ~9 hrs in the shoulder seasons (kitchen ~67°F), and probably closer to ~7 hours in the summertime (hot kitchen ~75°F)
  • this dough needs 3-4 sets of stretch and folds, spaced 30-45 min apart, starting at the beginning.
9 am: shape
  • gently handle gaseous dough onto a lightly floured surface. stretch gently into a square, about 8×8 inches, such that one side is floured, and the other is slightly tacky.
  • generously and evenly sprinkle ~2/3 (or more) of the shredded cheese onto the square, so the dough square is covered in cheese.
  • similar to rolling cinnamon rolls, roll the square into a cylinder. starting with the edge facing you, slowly roll up the square into a tight spiral.
  • with a bench knife or a string, cut the cylinder into six even pieces.
  • arrange the rolls of dough on parchment paper in your baking vessel of choice.
9:15 am: proof
  • cover and rest for 2 hours.
10:30 am: pre-heat
  • if you're using a cast-iron skillet, you will have to pre-heat the skillet with the oven. to do so, lift parchment paper and rolls off of cast-iron skillet, and set aside. cover again.
  • pre-heat oven to 475°F. place cast-iron skillet inside oven to heat.
11:30 am: bake
  • if using a cast iron skillet, remove now piping hot cast iron from oven and place the parchment paper with rolls back into cast iron.
  • generously top buns with additional cheese.
  • place buns on your middle rack.
  • bake for 20-25 minutes, or until buns are golden brown, checking once at 18 minutes.

easy vegan sourdough discard zucchini fritters

easy vegan sourdough discard zucchini fritters

long, lazy summer days call for simple, produce-centric meals.

i love spending weekends gobbling up as many colors as i can. heirloom tomatoes topped with flaky sea salt. watermelon with handfuls of fresh mint. cucumbers with avocado and dill.

what are your favorite farmers market finds? summer squash is one of mine.

every june, zucchini and its friends burst onto the farm stand and backyard garden scene in abundance. i love cooking them with eggs, putting them in dumpling filling, and baking them into quick breads. i have delicious memories of my grandma cooking them up with noodles for a breakfast noodle soup.

lately, i’ve renewed my love for zucchini in the form of fritters.

crispy and light on the outside, full of oniony and garlicy goodness on the inside. i like to serve them hot, sometimes with a dollop of cold yogurt. for extra fancy summertime vibes, i garnish with some freshly picked herbs.

best of all, they’re super simple and super fast. this verison is also completely vegan thanks to sourdough discard.

notes

the final batter is fairly thick. to reduce the wateriness of the zucchini, i include two additional steps.

  • first, adding salt in the beginning will draw water out of the zucchini.
  • second, squeezing the water out will prevent the batter from becoming too runny. if your final batter still seems too watery or loose, just stir in a bit more flour.

as always, please adjust the recipe to suit your starter’s hydration. as a reminder, i have a stiff starter at 80% hydration.

although you could bake these fritters, i strongly recommend frying them. in my experiments, they tasted way better, and the crispiness can’t be beat.

but you probably already knew i was gonna say that 😉

sourdough discard zucchini fritters

makes 6 small fritters

formula

  • 200 g zucchini, grated (1 md to lg zucchini)
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 75 g onion, finely diced (1/4 of a large onion)
  • 1/2 tsp garlic powder
  • 65 g sourdough discard
  • 1/4 tsp black pepper, to taste
  • neutral oil for frying or nonstick spray for baking

method

  • shredded zucchini
  • add shredded zucchini and salt to a medium sized bowl. cover and let sit for 10 min.
  • using a cheese cloth or with your hands over the sink or another bowl, squeeze out as much water from the zucchini as you can. a lot of water comes out! before squeezing my zucchini weighed ~200 g, and after squeezing it weighed ~125 g.
  • add the chopped onion, garlic powder, and black pepper to the bowl. mix thoroughly.
  • lastly, the add sourdough starter discard. combine until batter is thick and ingredients gel together.
to fry
  • using a cast iron skillet or another heavy bottom pan, heat a layer of neutral oil until hot. to test when oil is ready, drip a small droplet of water into the oil. if oil sizzles, the oil is hot enough to start frying.
  • drop 1/4 cup sized mounds into the sizzling oil, and flatten with a spatula to pancake thickness.
  • fry for 2-3 minutes, until golden brown. flip with spatula, and repeat on the other side.
  • remove from oil, and set aside on a paper towel.
to serve
  • serve with a dollop of sour cream or greek yogurt, along with fresh herbs like mint or dill!
cheddar pepper sourdough

cheddar pepper sourdough

we could all use a little more comfort in our lives right now, even in the blistering heat of summer. for me, no other food combination spells out comfort more than cheese and carbs.

this loaf deliciously combines the best of both worlds. the savory creaminess from the melted cheese comes in sporadic pockets, with the subtle spiciness from the black pepper running throughout.

this cheese and black pepper combo has easily become one of my favorites.

notes

as always, please adjust the formula based on the hydration of your starter, and adjust the timing of the bulk rise based on the temperature of your kitchen. this recipe was developed during the summer, in a 80 degree kitchen. please add an hour during the shoulder months, and two hours in winter months.

i used mccormick’s ground black pepper to develop this recipe, which i found to be fairly weak in flavor. i liked the flavor better at 2.5%, which for a 400 g flour loaf was 10 g of black pepper. i did not try this with freshly cracked black pepper. if you do bake this with freshly cracked black pepper which usually carries a stronger flavor, please be sure to reduce the amount.

cubing a block of cheese yourself is the secret to melty cheese pockets! shredded cheese will not yield the same effect. i like to use sharp, white cheddar cheese, but i bet a similar type of cheese would work just as well.

parchment paper is important here because the cheese will melt and get stuck to your dutch oven! that being said, the parchment paper might also get stuck to the loaf due to melted cheese. peel and scrape it off before enjoying.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour60%
whole wheat flour20%
bread flour20%
water80%
salt2.5%
levain22%
cheddar cheese30%
black pepper2.5%
steptime
levain build6 hours
bulk rise6.5 hours
folds4 folds &
1 lamination
cold proof12 – 16 hours
bake45 minutes

cheddar pepper sourdough

like mac and cheese in sourdough bread, this loaf is speckled with black pepper and caves of melted cheddar cheese.

formula

levain build
  • 15 g unfed levain
  • 15 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 60 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 60 g water @ 85°F
dough formula
  • 240 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 80 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur bread flour
  • 320 g water @ 90°F
  • 10 g sea salt
  • 88 g ripe levain
add-ins
  • 120 g white sharp cheddar cheese, cubed
  • 8 – 10 g black pepper, to taste

method

  • cubed cheese and pepper
7 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
12 pm: autolyse
  • in a large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 60 minutes.
1 pm: bulk fermentation
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times. then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix, alternating between using the rubaud and pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes.
  • let dough rise at room temp until it doubles and appears gaseous, about 6.5 hours in the summertime (kitchen ~80°F)
  • this dough needs 4 sets of coil folds, spaced 45 min apart, starting at the beginning. after the first coil fold, perform lamination to incorporate cheese and pepper.
  • sample schedule:
    – 1:45 pm fold #1
    – 2:30 pm laminate in cubed cheese and ground pepper
    – 3:15 pm fold #2
    – 4 pm fold #3
    – 4:45 pm fold #4
7:30 pm: shape
  • i like to shape these like a batard.
  • on a generously floured surface, gently guide dough onto the table. first tug and fold the dough lightly on itself in each direction: top, left, right, bottom, like you're folding up paper.
  • then, knit the left and right sides together like you're stitching up a seam.
  • finish by taking the top end of the dough, and rolling it up like a scroll, perpendicular to the seam.
  • flip dough over, seam side down on an unfloured surface. pinch ends shut.
7:35 pm: proof
  • generously flour an unlined bannetone (for the swirl aesthetic). flip the dough over with a bench knife, and gently transfer the dough, seasm side up, into the bannetone.
  • place bannetone inside of a plastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 12 – 16 hours.
[next morning] 9:30 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
10:30 am: bake
  • scored loaf
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • very slowly, flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • score your loaf with a lame. i like to score this with a single deep cut down the center with some optional lighter flourishes to each side.
  • transfer scored dough to dutch oven. decrease temperature to 475°F. with the lid on, bake for 30 minutes. then, take the lid off. bake for another 12 – 15 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a pretty deep brown).
12:30 pm: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.
sourdough discard kimchi pancakes (kimchijeon)

sourdough discard kimchi pancakes (kimchijeon)

although my korean food journey began with bowls of stone pot bibimbap in restaurants, i owe the bulk of my learning and appreciation to my korean friends. i have many happy memories of cooking for each other, swapping recipes from our childhoods and stories of our mothers.

those who are fans of my sourdough discard okonomiyaki know i’m a lover of savory pancakes. i’ve adapted this kimchi pancake recipe from maangchi, a true cooking legend. instead of flour and water, sourdough starter discard acts as the primary binder.

the tangy, funky, sourdough discard pairs beautifully with the tangy, funky kimchi. with only 8 ingredients and a 3 minute cook time, these pancakes are super easy, quick, and fun to make.

bonus: they’re vegan! just be sure to grab a vegan kimchi like sinto gourmet or chi kitchen. most store bought brands have seafood of some sort. you can also make it yourself if you’re feeling bold.

notes

the texture of this batter should resemble pancake batter. if it feels runny, add in all purpose flour until it reaches a firmer consistency.

this batter makes enough for two 8″ pancakes. feel free to modify the size of your pancakes! smaller ones will be easier to flip.

lastly, please adjust the recipe to suit your starter’s hydration. i have a stiff starter at 80% hydration. for help, my sourdough hydration math post and calculator explains how to calculate adjustments.

as a quick example, if your starter is 100%, the batter may come out too runny! to adjust, decrease sourdough discard amount to 130 g, and add an additional 20 g of all purpose flour.

sourdough discard kimchi pancakes (kimchijeon)

hot, crispy, chewy, crunchy, tangy, sour, and sweet all at the same time, these kimchi pancakes are incredibly fast and easy to make. adapted from maangchi, and can easily be made vegan.
Prep Time 5 minutes
Cook Time 3 minutes
Total Time 8 minutes

formula

  • 140 g kimchi
  • 80 g onion, chopped (about 1/4 of a medium onion)
  • 2 scallions, chopped
  • 8 g kimchi brine (~2 tbsp)
  • 8 g soy sauce (~2 tbsp)
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 g sugar (1/2 tsp)
  • 150 g sourdough discard
for frying
  • 2 tbsp neutral oil, vegetable or canola per pancake

method

  • combine all ingredients in a medium sized bowl, except the sourdough discard.
  • add the sourdough discard, and mix again until mixture becomes batter-like.
  • heat 1 tbsp of neutral oil in a 8-10" sized skillet on high heat until oil sizzles.
  • pour 1/2 of the batter into pan. spread out evenly into a pancake shape. cook for about 90 seconds, until side is golden brown.
  • using a thin spatula, first loosen edges. then, slide spatula underneath pancake and flip over onto the other side. cook the second side until golden brown, about 90 seconds again.
  • slide pancake carefully onto a plate or a cutting board. let cool slightly before slicing and eating. repeat with second pancake.
  • top optionally with sesame seeds and more chopped scallions. serve with dipping sauce of your choice.
olive sourdough

olive sourdough

i wish i could say that perusing the olive and cheese selection at the park slope food coop is what inspired me to make this loaf, but alas. i must confess i made this loaf because i once loved a man who really, really loved olives.

he didn’t live in new york (or even in this country), and for some reason i got it in my head that if only he tried a piece of this bread, he would consider moving brooklyn. yes, the loaf was truly that tasty.

a year has gone and passed since then. my hypothesis was never tested, as our relationship was too short-lived for him to try this bread.

luckily, this recipe lives on.

salty, tangy, always leaving you wanting more. feed this to all the lovers and olive lovers in your life. please do let me know if it has the intended effect 😉

notes

be sure to buy pre-pitted olives! i most certainly, definitely am not including this because i learned this the hard way heh (but seriously, de-pitting them was a n00b lesson you will now not have to repeat).

for lamination videos, check out my guava cream cheese post or @fullproofbaking.

my regular batch of caveats: please be wary of starter hydration and seasonal timing adjustments (for me it means about +1 hr in the summer, and about -1 hr in the winter).

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
bread flour50%
all purpose flour20%
whole wheat flour20%
rye flour10%
water80%
salt2.5%
levain24%
steptime
levain build7 hours
bulk rise8 hours
folds3 folds
cold proof14 – 18 hours
bake45 minutes

olive sourdough

the rye, wheat, and olive combo makes for a salty, tangy, loaf that always leaves you wanting more. a great accompaniment to a cheese plate.

formula

levain build
  • 20 g levain
  • 80 g water @ 85-90°F
  • 20 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur all purpose flour
dough formula
  • 164 g king arthur bread flour
  • 66 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 67 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 33 g rye flour
  • 257 g water @ 90-95°F
  • 8 g sea salt
  • 80 g levain
  • 7 g additional water
lamination
  • 82 g pitted olives

method

11pm: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
[next morning] 7 am: autolyse
  • in a separate large bowl, mix all flours together.
  • slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
7:30 am: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough, and pour additional water over it to help the salt absorb. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • measure out the ripe starter, and add to dough.
  • mix using the pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes. target final temperature should be 78 degrees.
7:37 am bulk fermentation
  • this dough bulks for about 8 hrs at room temp during spring/fall, longer if your kitchen runs cool or during winter, and shorter if your kitchen runs warm or during the summer.
  • this dough needs around 3-4 stretch and folds (or coil folds), and an additional round of lamination after the first fold to incorporate the olives. these steps should be spaced about 45 minutes apart if possible.
  • example schedule:
    8:15 AM fold #1. 9 AM lamination. 9:45 AM fold #2. 10:30 AM fold #3.
9 am: lamination
  • cut pitted olives in half.
  • perform lamination by first stretching dough like a pizza crust, and then spreading olive chunks evenly across the dough. fold onto itself into a rectangular shape.
3 pm: shape
  • slowly transfer dough from bowl onto a lightly floured surface, so it lays out in a vaguely rectangular looking shape.
  • i like shaping these like a batard, using what i like to call the "burrito method."
  • 1. gently tug the top, short end of the vaguely rectangular looking shape, and fold over a small section.
  • 2. grab a tiny bit of dough from the left side, and tug it over onto the right side. grab a tiny bit of dough from the right side and tug it over onto the left side. continue pattern downwards to form a stitch-like appearance.
  • 3. when you get close to the bottom end, fold over a small piece upwards. then do one final stitch to seal.
  • 4. take the top end of the burrito, and roll it over onto itself, kind of like a sushi roll.
  • 5. seal the ends by pinching the holes shut.
3:05 pm: proof
  • lightly flour a lined bannetone or other proofing vesicle. flip the top of the dough over, and gently transfer the dough seam side up into the bannetone.
  • place bannetone inside of a plastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 14-18 hours.
[next morning] 6 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
6:55 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • optional: sprinkle coarse corn meal on the bottom. flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • using a lame, score length wise, about 1/8" deep, and 1/2" away from both edges. sometimes, i optionally add a leaf design as well for flourish
7 am: bake
  • slowly and carefully lift the parchment paper with the dough into the hot dutch oven. decrease temperature to 475°F. bake for 30 minutes with the lid on.
  • take the lid off, and bake for another 15-20 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go medium brown for this loaf).
10 am: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.
cast iron sourdough discard pizza

cast iron sourdough discard pizza

my earliest meaningful memory of pizza is of waiting in line with my mother at papa murphy’s take and bake, bogo coupon in hand, ordering two supreme pizzas. then, there was the costco food stand. our family of 4 would pile into the car, do our shopping, walk out with the largest supreme pizza available, and eat the leftovers over the next few days.

if there’s one thing my mother believed in, it was value. getting anything short of whatever gave you the most amount of toppings was unthinkable. and thus, i was raised on a string of supreme pizzas.

then, the singular experience at 17 that redefined pizza for me: a classic margherita from punch pizza.

for one, it was a topping-less pizza. i remember it coming out, the bare cheese staring back at me, bits of tomato sauce peeking through, naked, like it forgot to put its clothes on.

second, we each got our own individual pizza, as if one entire pizza was an acceptable serving size my parents conveniently forgot to mention to me, a young susceptible mind and a very hungry almost adult.

but most importantly, it was nothing like i had tasted before. the thin base, the wood fired flavor, the satisfying chew of the crust. it was hard for me to believe that we lived in a world where the pizza i knew and loved could coexist with this new pizza i didn’t know and quickly became infatuated with.

i’ve had way more pizza memories than i’d like to admit over this past decade of pizza discovery and re-discovery. pizza seems to hold the constant of re-inventing itself for me just as i keep re-inventing myself.

my newest favorite way to eat pizza is to make a big batch of dough, invite a small group of friends over, and make a couple of pizzas together while we catch up. it’s as collaborative as it is creative, as easy as it is fast, as humble as it is impressive.

i hope these will soon become your favorite pizza memories too.

notes

i have a stiff starter that’s 80% hydration. please adjust amount of water in final dough to account for your starter’s hydration.

we might not get to gather in groups again for a while, but luckily this dough keeps well for a few days in the fridge. in fact, this dough needs a long cold proof. you’ll find it becomes easier to work with and the flavors become more complex the longer it’s been in the fridge. it bakes up quick enough to make for a reasonably achievable weekday work from home lunch.

pizza like this does its best baking at very high temps. unfortunately most home ovens don’t go as high as commercial ones. just crank it to as high as it will go, and make sure your oven is clean. i may or may not have set off my smoke detector at least 5 times over the course of 3 bakes.

this recipe makes enough dough for 3 – 12″ skillet-sized pizzas or 4 – 9″ skill-sized pizzas. scale up or down as needed. i can pretty easily eat an entire one of these.

this recipe is just for the crust. some toppings inspiration:

  • du’s: mozz, caramelized onions, roasted garlic, spinach. to prevent burnt ends, put the caramelized onions on post bake or hide beneath spinach. drizzle with honey & chili flakes right before serving.
  • margherita: tomato sauce & mozz. put basil on right before serving.
  • tie dye: ricotta & mozz, tomato sauce & pesto
  • shakshuka: tomato sauce, egg, mozz, feta. top with pepper and arugula post bake
two slices of sourdough discard pizza from the side

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour100%
water70%
unfed levain (discard)20%
steptime
autolyse30 – 60 min
bulk rise9 hours
folds2 folds
cold proof12 – 72 hours
bake15 – 20 min
top left corner of sourdough discard pizza in cast iron skillet

sourdough discard pizza

adapted from ken forkish's recipe, this versatile pizza dough is made from sourdough discard and baked in a cast iron skillet pan.

formula

dough formula
  • 400 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 280 g water @ 90-95°F
  • 80 g sourdough starter discard
  • 10 g sea salt
toppings
  • anything you want on a pizza!

method

8 am: autolyse
  • in a medium to large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30-60 minutes.
  • 8:45 am: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • then, measure out discard starter (room temp or from fridge), and add to bowl. mix, alternating with pincer method and stretch and fold, until well incorporated, for about 6 minutes.
9 am: bulk fermentation
  • this dough needs a bulk rise of about 8-9 hours, until the dough is doubled and gaseous, with 2 stretch and folds in the first 2 hours spaced about 30-45 min apart.
  • after your last fold, lightly coat dough with olive oil to prevent sticking.
5:30 pm: divide & shape
  • generously sprinkle flour onto a table and your hands. gently turn your dough out onto your working surface into a somewhat even shape.
  • using a bench knife, divide dough into equal sections of about 250 g each for a 3 pizzas in a 12" skillet, or about 200 g each for 4 pizzas in a 9".
  • shape into tight dough balls using stretch and fold method. flip over onto its seam and drag ever so slightly on an unfloured surface to seal. repeat with each dough round.
5:45 pm: proof
  • place the dough balls on a lightly floured baking sheet or container, allowing for some room to expand. lightly oil the tops, then cover. i use aluminum foil (its recyclable in nyc!) for a baking sheet or just a tupperware cover.
  • leave in fridge overnight or for at least 8 hours, up to 3 days.
[next day] 6 pm: preheat
  • preheat oven to 525°F or as high as it will go. put cast iron skillet inside oven and heat for 30 min. if you have a finicky smoke detector like i do, watch out.
  • it usually takes a full 30 minutes for my ancient brooklyn oven to pre-heat so i usually just leave my skillet in for an hour.
7 pm: stretch
  • remove dough from fridge.
  • on a generously floured surface, stretch your dough. gently punch down the center, leaving a thin rim (about ½" – 1") for the crust. flip over and repeat.
  • i also like to pick up the round, letting the dough dangle vertically, and gently rotate, letting gravity help me stretch and create the final shape.
  • continue doing these two steps until you get your desired thin-ness. you want it thin, without holes. no worries if holes do appear though — you can just patch 'em.
7:10 pm: top
  • have all your pizza toppings ready to go next to your stove.
  • remove the now piping hot cast iron skillet from oven, and place on a stove burner at high heat.
  • carefully, with very floured hands, transfer your pizza crust onto the cast iron skillet. gently stretch if needed, but i find that to be very difficult at this stage.
  • working quickly, top your pizza.
  • at its simplest: spoon some tomato sauce and arrange some mozz slices. drizzle olive oil and lightly sprinkle sea salt over the top.
7:15 pm: bake
  • place skillet back into oven for about 15 minutes, or until cheese is bubbly and crust turns golden brown. check after 12 minutes and keep an eye on it to prevent burning.
7:30 pm: enjoy
  • let cool for a minute or two before transferring to a cutting board. slice and serve immediately with your favorite italian wine (chianti classico perhaps?).
  • eat a slice with people you love even more than you love pizza.
sourdough croutons, and other ways to love old bread

sourdough croutons, and other ways to love old bread

if you’re like me and love baking bread just as much as you love eating bread, you might occasionally have the unique, and frankly excellent, problem of sometimes being in possession of perhaps, too much bread (writing this pains me because i’d like to defend that there is no such thing as too much bread, particularly sourdough bread).

over the past few years, in addition to baking slightly smaller loaves and finding more people to share my freshly baked bread with, i’ve developed a few strategies to maximize my bread consumption and to salvage aging (or failed heh) loaves — what else is a carb-loving eco-conscious nerd to do?

1. pre-slice & freeze half

i’ve found that the shelf life of homemade sourdough is around 3 days, though the crust begins to lose its characteristic crunch much sooner than that.

let this be a game changer: you can freeze your bread, and re-toast it to revive the same texture.

i like to pre-slice the portion of the loaf i plan to freeze into toastable sizes, and then store them in a freezer bag. when i’m ready to eat, i just pull out slices one by one and pop them in the toaster on a medium-high setting. when they pop out, they’re crispy on the edges and soft in the center.

you’re welcome.

2. give your bread a second life

sometimes my sourdough gets stale sooner than i’d like. in these cases i give it a second act: savory bread pudding, french toast using day-old guava cream cheese sourdough, or my current favorite — sourdough croutons. like discard focaccia, the recipe is simple while the possibilities for flavor combos are limitless.

this recipe is vaguer than my other ones. just like okonomiyaki is a way to eat a bunch of delicious sauces, i feel like croutons are simply a vehicle to get flavor profiles you want on a very crisp vehicle.

sub olive oil for melted butter for a richer flavor. add whatever flavorings you want. i like a generous amount of italian seasoning and garlic powder. sometimes a bit of parmesan cheese if i’m feeling fancy.

cut toss bake enjoy repeat. i hope this encourages you to love your day-old bread just as much as you love your fresh-out-of-the-oven crackling loaf!

sourdough croutons

Prep Time 5 minutes
Bake Time 15 minutes

formula

the basics
  • stale sourdough bread
  • salt
  • olive oil
the extras
  • italian seasoning
  • garlic powder
  • parmesan cheese

method

  • pre-heat oven to 350°F.
  • cut sourdough bread into small cubes. i like mine around 1/2".
  • drizzle olive oil evenly over the cubed bread. gently sprinkle a light, even amount of salt over cubed bread, and then top with whatever seasonings feel interesting to you.
  • you can combine the ingredients either first in a large bowl, or directly on the sheet pan. i hate doing dishes so i mix em up with my hands directly on the sheet. make sure the sheet pan is large enough as to not crowd the cubes.
  • bake for 15ish minutes, or until croutons are crisp and dry. keep an eye on them to prevent burning. eat them in soups, on top of salads, or straight up as a snack.
  • to store, wait until completely cool and keep in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
sourdough discard okonomiyaki

sourdough discard okonomiyaki

the wonderfully talented caroline schiff reminded me recently that that frying up sourdough discard on its own makes for a pretty damn tasty pancake. this, of course, had me dreaming of all the savory pancakes i’ve loved in my life and how to recreate them.

okonomiyaki, a japanese savory pancake made predominantly out of cabbage, is one of my favorites. it’s customizable, crisp, chewy, dangerously easy, disproportionately delicious, and very, very, pretty. i think of it as a relatively healthy conduit to eat a bunch of sauces i always want excuses to eat.

cabbage also happens to be one of the heartiest vegetables and lasts forever (at least in quarantine time), so of course i have an unreasonable amount now stocked up in my apt during this pandemic. wishing i could hop on a plane get myself to japan this spring, but this pancake will have to do.

notes

the toppings i’ve listed are mere suggestions. feel to top with whatever you have on hand, and whatever you find delicious. ketchup or kimchi works just as well as sriracha or chili crisp.

maybe cabbage and carrots aren’t your thing. that’s ok. feel free to throw in other vegetables or scallions in you have on hand that have similar texture to substitute (daikon, broccoli stems, etc.) for a non-traditional, but likely still delicious savory pancake.

other additions: for the non-vegetarians, kenji says you also fry it in some pork belly or bacon, and top with dried bonito flakes. for an eggier pancake, add an additional egg and 50 g additional veggies.

i’ve made these the size of a regular pancake or the traditionally larger size, either works. remember that the larger the pancake, the harder it will be to flip!

sourdough discard okonomiyaki

a dangerously easy, disproportionately delicious vegetarian japanese savory cabbage pancake using sourdough discard as a batter base.
Prep Time 2 minutes
Cook Time 8 minutes
Total Time 10 minutes

formula

for the pancake
  • 160 g cabbage, finely chopped or grated
  • 40 g carrots, finely chopped or grated
  • 100 g sourdough starter discard
  • 8 g soy sauce
  • 1 egg
  • pinch of salt
  • vegetable or canola oil (for frying)
for the toppings
  • kewpie (or another mayo)
  • hoison sauce
  • nori sesame seed mix
  • lao gan ma chili crisp
  • sriracha

method

  • in large bowl, combine sourdough discard, egg, soy sauce, and a pinch of salt. mix well with fork or whisk until it becomes a batter like consistency.
  • add in shredded vegetables. toss until vegetables are coated in batter.
  • heat up oil on a skillet on med-high heat. when oil is sizzling hot, spoon in mixture and flatten to form in the shape of a pancake.
  • cover and cook for 3-4 minutes, or until bottom is golden brown. flip, using a spatula or a lid, and continue cook for another 3-4 minutes, uncovered. okonomiyaki is done when both sides are crispy and golden brown.
  • serve immediately, while warm, on a plate with toppings of your choice. i like to drizzle mayo (preferably kewpie) and hoison sauce, and top with sesame seeds, scallions, and lao gan ma chili crisp.
sourdough discard scallion pancakes 葱油饼

sourdough discard scallion pancakes 葱油饼

growing up, my mother made dumplings from scratch at least once a month. she always purposely made extra dumpling dough, and with the remains, we’d make scallion pancakes, often without the scallions.

a thing to know about my mom: whenever my mom makes anything, she always guesstimates. “eyeballing”, she would say, is the chinese way.

unfortunately, i don’t have my mother’s eyeballs. maybe it’s that i’ve absorbed a more western (?) philosophy, finding mostly comfort and curiousity in the precision of baking. thus, most of my adult life has been a journey to furiously scribble down measurements whenever i can and whenever my mom will let me pull out my tools to take weights or temperatures or to ask more questions than necessary.

the first recipe i managed to write down correctly was one for scallion pancakes. i was 17 and in college and really craving something other than our student center’s tofu teriyaki when i emailed home for some ratios. after some trial and error and tweaking, i finally got a version that had the same texture as my mothers.

this recipe is a sourdough discard adaptation of that original recipe.

notes

i have a stiff starter that’s 80% hydration. please adjust amount of water in final dough to account for your starter’s hydration.

these are pretty traditional scallion pancakes. for a fluffy version characteristic of northern china, check out my leavened, fluffy sourdough discard scallion pancake recipe.

if you read the introductory paragraph, you’ll realize that you can use this dough formula to make dumpling wrappers as well! i’d recommend letting the dough rest for an extra hour or two before cutting and rolling out.

this recipe makes one single-serving pancake. feel free to double and triple as you please.

the shaping technique described in this recipe optimizes for distinct layers. you can also use the roll & snail technique found in my other scallion pancake recipe for a more traditional swirl aesthetic.

bonus non-gluten side salad recipe

i sometimes like to serve this with a traditional cucumber salad. the slight tang from the sourdough with the sourness of the black vinegar is a winning combo in my book. the sauce that sits at the bottom ends up being a great dipping sauce.

slice up one cucumber, mince 2-3 cloves of garlic, throw in a couple good glugs of black vinegar, a sprinkle of salt, and a spoonful of extra crunchy peanut butter (optional). shake or toss or mix until all ingredients combined. drizzle with sesame oil to top, and serve immediately.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour100%
water45%
unfed levain (discard)50%
steptime
autolyse1-2 hr
fry6-8 min

sourdough discard scallion pancakes 葱油饼

made with leftover sourdough discard, these scallion pancakes have the traditional crispy exterior with a thin, chewy interior. now featuring my mother's super easy technique for painless, plentiful, distinct pancake layers.
Prep Time 7 minutes
Cook Time 8 minutes
Rest Time 1 hour
Total Time 1 hour 15 minutes

formula

dough formula
  • 100 g all purpose flour
  • 45 g warm water
  • 50 g sourdough starter discard
filling
  • 12 g canola oil (more to fry in)
  • 3 g salt
  • 20-25 g scallions, chopped finely (2-3 stalks)
optional topping
  • 1 handful sesame seeds, to taste

method

  • mix discard (you can use straight from the fridge) and water together. then mix in flour completely, kneading lightly until dough forms a ball shape and until smooth, about 3-5 minutes. the dough should feel smooth and pliable, like a soft playdoh.
  • leave in bowl and keep covered for 1-2 hours.
  • to prevent sticking, oil dough very slightly. using a rolling pin, roll out dough as thin as possible (without it breaking when you pick it up), into a circular or square shape.
  • drizzle oil evenly across rolled out dough. dab each corner towards the center and wiggle slightly to ensure that oil is evenly spread across dough. then, lightly sprinkle salt evenly across flat dough. repeat with the scallions.
  • take one end of the dough, and fold down flatly on itself, about 2-3 inches. keep folding until you get a shape resembling a flattened roll.
  • then, take one end of the flattened roll and continue to fold it onto itself, about 2-3 inches at a time, until you get a final square shape. the dough should be quite folded onto itself at this point.
  • using a rolling pin, roll out thinly and firmly to form about an 8 in circle or a square. don't worry if oil or scallions start peeping out!! you'll want the pancake to be thin, without breaking when handled.
  • once flattened, sprinkle sesame seeds on one side.
  • now you're ready to fry! turn your stove to high heat. take a skillet pan and coat the bottom with oil, and wait until oil sizzles.
  • when the oil sizzles, handle pancake gently and place into the hot skillet pan. cook for 3-4 minutes on each side, until both sides are golden brown.
  • when done, remove from skillet pan and let cool slightly before cutting in!
pandemic focaccia

pandemic focaccia

i’ve been making a lot of focaccia recently. it seems like the entire world is stress baking along with me as a result of coronavirus.

my covid-19 experience thus far has been rocky: i’ve been away from my home and home kitchen this past month as part of a residency program in a different part of brooklyn. i definitely wasn’t expecting to face a once-in-a-lifetime, once-in-a-century global pandemic in not-my-home with not-my-family in the now-global-epicenter, but hey, here we are, and this too, shall pass.

as a result of the unfamiliarity, i’ve been revisiting old recipes that bring me comfort, like this sourdough discard focaccia. i’ve made this specific flavor combination four times this past week and plan to make it many more times this week to pull me through what i can only describe as shared global grief and trauma. i’ve loaded this focaccia with so many of my favorite things: heavy with ricotta, so much so that it tastes quite like a white pizza, generously topped with caramelized onions.

it feels almost luxurious to be able to eat this during a time of crisis, especially when i consider the additional luxury i have to be able to work from home. i keep telling myself that it’s ok to enjoy and appreciate and be grateful for the tiny beautiful things.

so bake this and share it with your loved ones. feed this to those you live with. tell them they mean something to you. don’t hold back on the cheese. don’t hold back on the drizzle. don’t hold anything back at all.

wishing all of you and your communities lots of love, connection, safety, health — and a lot, a lot of bread.

notes

the dough used in this recipe is the exact same formula as my sourdough discard focaccia, but i’ve simplified it a bit. my original recipe uses einkorn flour, but i’ve found i can really use any non-white flour in its stead (though einkorn flour still produces my favorite texture).

i’ve also just defaulted the hydration to 80% and a 12 hour bulk time, given that i’ve found higher hydration and a long bulk time yield a jigglier dough and better structured crumb.

i often double this recipe and make two batches at once. increase the bake time slightly if you’re going to be baking multiple pans or a larger focaccia. the shape of the pan won’t matter too much, but the size does. i usually like to use a pan that is just slightly bigger than my stretched out focaccia.

pandemic focaccia

a sweet, savory, spicy and luxurious focaccia to weather a once in a lifetime global pandemic. or just to eat casually on a monday night to treat yoself.

formula

dough formula
  • 180 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 60 g king arthur bread flour
  • 60 g any low protein flour, like whole wheat
  • 240 g water, 90-95°F
  • 7 g sea salt
  • 60 g discard starter
to top, pre-bake
  • 230 g ricotta
  • 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
  • 4 g coarse salt
  • 9 g extra virgin olive oil
to top, post-bake
  • 1/2 large onion, caramelized (more if desired)
  • 1 tbsp red pepper chili flakes
  • 1 tbsp raw honey

method

9 pm: make dough
10 pm: bulk fermentation
  • this dough needs an overnight bulk rise of about 12 hours.
[next morning] 9:20 am: prepare the onions
  • julienne the onions. add 1-2 tbsp of butter to a skillet on low to medium heat. add onions and cook low and slow for 30-45 minutes, stirring occasionally until onions turn transluscent and then turn a caramel color.
9:30 am: preheat
  • preheat oven to 500°F. this takes a while for my oven so i usually do it 30-45 minutes before i plan to bake. at this point the dough should be jiggly and bubbly!
10 am: shape
  • generously oil the bottom of a 9×13 metal pan. turn the dough out carefully onto the greased pan.
  • using your fingers or knuckles, gently stretch the dough to the shape of the pan, until about 1/2 to 1 inch thick, dimpling the dough in the process.
  • let rest about 5-10 minutes
10:10 am: top, pre-bake
  • take tablespoon-fulls of ricotta and plop evenly on top of focaccia into the dimples. i like to densely spoon ricotta to get a pizza-like focaccia. add as much or as little as you'd like.
  • sprinkle coarse salt and rosemary to taste, on top of dimpled dough. then, drizzle olive oil.
10:15 am: bake
  • bake at 500°F until the top becomes golden brown, usually for 15 – 20 minutes depending on your oven. if you make a double recipe baking time can increase to about 25 minutes.
10:35 am: top, post-bake
  • remove baked focaccia onto a cooling rack. using tongs (or another utensil), gently distribute your caramelized onions on top. sprinkle with red pepper flakes, to taste.
  • let cool for at least 5 minutes, and drizzle honey on top before slicing and serving.
sourdough discard focaccia

sourdough discard focaccia

focaccia is like sourdough’s super chill, completely unfussy sister that pulls everything off without even trying. you know the type — the ones that throw their hair up in a bun without having to check their reflection, throw on a jacket that’s just laying about, and still manages to bounce out the door looking effortlessly cool.

some days i want making bread to feel like this too, and on those days i make focaccia. throw everything together, go to sleep, and in the morning, poof, without having to really even think, out comes this miraculously delicious, beautiful thing.

think it’s too good to be true? let’s make it even better. this sourdough focaccia recipe is leavened with sourdough starter discard.

you’re welcome 🙂

sourdough discard focaccia dough

notes

i have a stiff starter that’s 80% hydration. please adjust amount of water in final dough to account for your starter’s hydration.

you might realize you like a different thickness of focaccia than the one described here. a 10×10 inch brownie-ish or cake pan for this quantity of dough will give you a focaccia that just fills the crevices. for a thicker focaccia, use a smaller pan or scale up your dough. i use a pan where the dough doesn’t quite reach the edges and get a thinner focaccia i personally really enjoy. tldr; use what you got!

if you find your focaccia is sticking to the pan or worry it might, a few readers have recommended using parchment paper in addition to oil.

though this recipe tastes great on its own, it is also very adaptable to include whatever toppings you wish and enjoy on focaccia. a few suggestions:

  • roasted garlic: roast 1-2 heads of garlic. dimple in the garlic before adding salt and additional olive oil.
  • zataar: after dimpling and after drizzling olive oil and salt, sprinkle a handful of zataar. drizzle another bit of olive oil on top.
  • veggies: slice a couple handfuls of raw grape or cherry tomatoes in half, and some red onion and peppers into slivers. dimple in the veggies before adding salt and additional olive oil.
  • grapes: dimple in a couple handfuls of grapes before adding salt and additional olive oil.
  • rosemary: top with a few sprigs of rosemary at the end.
sourdough discard focaccia sliced crumb shot stacked

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour60%
einkorn* flour20%
bread flour20%
water80%
unfed levain (discard)20%
steptime
autolyse30 – 60 min
bulk rise10 – 12 hours
folds1 – 2 folds
bake15 – 20 min

*you can sub einkorn flour with whole wheat, or all purpose flour

sourdough discard focaccia sliced

sourdough discard focaccia

simple, unfussy, forgiving, and utterly delicious. this basic focaccia recipe can be enjoyed as is or dressed up with toppings.

formula

dough formula
  • 180 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 60 g king arthur bread flour
  • 60 g einkorn flour
  • 234 g water, 90-95°F
  • 7 g sea salt
  • 60 g sourdough starter discard
  • 6 g additional water (optional)
to top
  • 4 g coarse salt
  • 9 g extra virgin olive oil (perhaps more to drizzle)

method

9 pm: autolyse
  • in a medium to large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30-60 minutes.
9:50 pm: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough, and pour additional water over the salt to encourage absorption. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • then, measure out discard starter (room temp or from fridge), and add to bowl. this is a very wet dough. mix using rubaud or slap and fold method until well incorporated, for about 6-7 minutes.
10 pm: bulk fermentation
  • this dough needs an overnight bulk rise at room temperature of about 10 – 12 hours, until the dough is doubled and bubbly, with 2 stretch and folds in the first 2 hours. i usually do one stretch and fold 30 min after mixing, and then another 30 minutes after that.
[next morning] 9:30 am: preheat
  • preheat oven to 500°F. this takes a while for my oven so i usually do it 30-45 minutes before i plan to bake. at this point the dough should be jiggly and bubbly!
10 am: shape
  • generously oil the bottom of a metal pan (whatever size pan you prefer or have. see notes for recommendations. these photos show a 9×13.)
  • turn the dough out carefully onto the greased pan.
  • using your fingers or knuckles, gently stretch the dough to the shape of the pan, until about 1/2 inch thick, dimpling the dough in the process.
10:04 am: top
  • top with any other toppings that suits your fancy: a head of roasted garlic, a couple sprigs of rosemary, a handful of zataar, grapes.
  • sprinkle coarse salt and drizzle olive oil, to taste on top of dimpled dough.
  • let rest for 5 minutes.
10:10 am: bake
  • bake at 500°F for 15 – 20 minutes, or until the top becomes golden brown.
10:30 am: slice & enjoy
  • let cool on rack for 5 minutes. enjoy while warm or at room temperature, on its own or with a meal.
fluffy sourdough chinese scallion pancakes 发面葱油饼

fluffy sourdough chinese scallion pancakes 发面葱油饼

🧧 happy lunar new year!!! 🧧

this past friday marked the beginning of the two week holiday period known as spring festival 春节, a huge celebration in mainland china to usher in the new year. festivities often include extravagant amounts of delicious food, a lot of quality family time, and even more echos of wishing each other health, happiness, and prosperity.

as a kid, my family used to gather with a few other chinese families in the greater twin cities area for a celebratory potluck dinner, where each family would bring their specialty dish, taking pride in their regional cuisine. raised in northern china where the food is more wheat based (rather than rice), my mom was known for her dumplings and flatbreads.

the apple don’t fall far from the tree i guess.

this recipe is a way to share a piece of my mother’s cooking and pride in our region. i adapted her yeasted scallion pancake 发面葱油饼 (fa mian cong you bing) recipe to use sourdough discard, and fell in love with the result. soft & fluffy on the inside with a perfectly umami laden & crispy exterior, this is a perfect way to get every last bit of leavening power from your sourdough starter discard.

fluffy sourdough discard scallion pancake cut into slices and stacked

notes

i went through a lot of trial and error with this recipe.

  • some variations that were successful: i’ve used discard both at room temp and straight out of the fridge. the water temperature listed in the recipe below is for discard straight out of the fridge. for room temp you can use water 90-95°F.
  • some that were less successful: this dough at a lower hydration doesn’t achieve the lightness we want, and the dough at a higher hydration becomes hard to roll out. i’d recommend sticking to 54-56%
  • i didn’t test an overnight refrigerated proof at all, but that could be interesting to experiment with.

importantly, i use discard from a stiff levain. please tweak flour and water proportions to accommodate for your levain’s hydration. as an example calculation:

  • my starter is 80% hydration with a 5:4:1 ratio of flour to water to starter. this means that 50g of starter is composed of about 28g flour and 22g water (or if you’re real nerdy like me, 50g = x + 0.8x, solve for x)
  • if your starter is 100% hydration (1:1:1 ratio), that means that 50g of starter is composed of 25g of flour and 25g of water. so to match the recipe, add 3g more flour and 3g less water. ta-da!

i also wrote a blog post about this math with a few helpful calculator tools!

lastly, if you enjoyed this, i’d so appreciate you taking a second to rate and leave a comment all the way at the bottom. i love hearing feedback and it brings me so much joy to know you’re making this recipe!

freshly cut scallions green onions

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour100%
water54%
unfed levain (discard)30%
steptime
first rise1 hour
second rise1 hour
proof1 hour
final rise1.5-2 hours
fry12-14 min
fluffy sourdough discard scallion pancake dough

fluffy sourdough discard chinese scallion pancakes 发面葱油饼

fluffy, chinese scallion pancakes are a yeasted flatbread typical of northern china. this delicious adaption is naturally leavened using sourdough discard.
Prep Time 6 minutes
Cook Time 14 minutes
Resting Time 5 hours
Total Time 5 hours 20 minutes

formula

dough formula
  • 165 g all purpose flour
  • 89 g water, 100°F
  • 50 g sourdough starter discard
filling
  • 10 g oil (olive, vegetable, or canola)
  • 3 g fine-grained salt
  • 25 g scallions, chopped finely (2-3 stalks)
optional topping
  • 1 handful sesame seeds

method

  • mix flour and water together until you see chunks and strands, but before it's come together completely. then, add the sourdough starter discard.
  • mix together completely, kneading lightly until dough forms a ball shape. leave in bowl and keep covered for 1 hour.
  • after an hour, knead lightly for 1 minute, until top appears smooth. Put back in bowl and cover again for 1 hour.
  • take dough out of bowl and knead lightly again for 1 minute. drizzle a small amount of oil on top to prevent sticking.
  • oil your working surface to ensure dough does not stick. using a rolling pin, roll out dough until about 1/2 in. thick. rest, covered, for 1 hour.
  • the dough should look slightly puffier. roll out again, like you're making cinnamon rolls, into a rectangular shape until about 1/4 in. thick.
  • drizzle oil evenly across rolled out dough. dab each corner towards the center and wiggle slightly to ensure that oil is evenly spread across dough. lightly sprinkle salt evenly across flat dough, and repeat with the scallions.
  • take the shorter end of the rectangle, and begin rolling up the rectangle like a jelly roll (or a fruit rollup or cinnamon rolls!). roll this tightly to achieve more layers — i recommend going pretty slowly to ensure getting the middle and edges.
  • once complete, shape the roll to form a coil. the end result should look like a circular snail's shell. tuck the end of the roll underneath the coil, and press firmly.
  • oil your working surface again to ensure dough does not stick. using a rolling pin, roll the final circle out slightly to form a 7-8 in circle. cover, and let rest for 1.5-2 hours.
  • the dough should look slightly domed when you uncover it. using a rolling pin, roll lightly until top is flat. you want to maintain the thickness, so careful not to compress. if desired, sprinkle an even layer of sesame seeds on both sides. using a light touch, roll over the sesame seed studded dough with your rolling pin to seal them in.
  • now you're ready to fry! turn your stove to high heat. take a skillet pan and coat the bottom with oil, and wait until oil sizzles.
  • when the oil sizzles, place the dough into the skillet pan. lower heat to medium-high and cook, covered, for 5 minutes. using a spatula, flip and cook other side for 5 minutes.
  • fry until sides are golden brown and crispy, about 2 more minutes per side.
  • when done, remove from skillet pan and let cool slightly before cutting in. serve warm along side vegetables, with a dipping sauce, or as a snack. enjoy the scallion pancake like you've never enjoyed the before.
everything sourdough discard crackers

everything sourdough discard crackers

these crackers were born out of resourcefulness and convenience. after making my everything sourdough bread, i took the extra starter discard and made my basic cheesy cracker (like usual). then thinking nothing of it, i rolled the dough in the everything seasoning i had leftover.

little did i know that these crackers would become, by far, the most addicting thing i have ever baked. i have seen my friends demolish jars of these in one sitting. i have seen myself demolish jars of these in one sitting.

if you’re interested in witnessing the same progression of events, please proceed.

you’ve been warned.

notes

this recipe is shockingly simple for the flavor it delivers. there’s plenty of salt in the everything seasoning mix, which omits the need to add it directly to the crackers (i tried it once, and it was like the equivalent of eating double strength sea water).

to get an even distribution of everything seasoning, generously sprinkle the everything seasoning on the surface you plan to roll the dough on, and then directly roll the dough into the seasoning.

you can buy everything seasoning from the store or use the ratios i use for a DIY mix. the formula i’ve included will leave you with extra everything seasoning you can use for your next batch of crackers.

the proportions i’ve specified will make exactly one cookie sheet pan worth of crackers. this recipe can be easily doubled, tripled, etc. to satisfy any further cracker cravings.

everything sourdough discard crackers

the most addicting sourdough discard cracker recipe you will ever try — guaranteed.
Prep Time 10 minutes
Cook Time 30 minutes
Resting Time 4 hours
Total Time 4 hours 40 minutes

formula

crackers
  • 1/2 cup sourdough starter discard (127 g)
  • 1/2 cup whole wheat flour (65 g)
  • 2 tbsp olive oil (6 g)
  • 1/4 cup shredded cheese, i like parmesan or cheddar or a mix of both (30 g)
  • 20 g everything seasoning
everything seasoning
  • 3 tbsp poppy seeds
  • 3 tbsp sesame seeds
  • 2 tbsp dried minced garlic
  • 2 tbsp dried minced onion
  • 3 tbsp coarse salt

method

  • combine starter, flours, oil, and cheese together in a medium sized bowl. texture should be stiffer and dryer than cookie dough but still wet enough to knead.
  • let rest at room temperature for 4-8 hours.
  • preheat oven to 350 degrees
  • sprinkle 20 g everything seasoning on a table. take the dough, place on top of the seasoning.
  • as if you were rolling out pie crust, roll dough in the topping with a rolling pin. continue rolling, flipping over once, until it covers the surface area and shape of your baking sheet.
  • bake for about 20-25 min, or whenever the edges curl up and turn golden brown.
  • let cool for 15 minutes.
  • break up crackers for a rustic look. serve with cheese and dips, or enjoy on its own.
seeded sourdough

seeded sourdough

we are officially in the thicket of winter, which for most people means a miserable period of darkness and coldness and wetness and <insert your other gloomy adjectives of choice>.

but from misery breeds opportunity i say! an opportunity to indulge and find comfort in all the warm, lovely carbohydrates. an opportunity to crank your oven up to the highest setting and to hover by it as the aromas and heat waft out of the kitchen.

that doesn’t so bad right?

this recipe for seeded sourdough is perfect for those who, like me, also reach for heartier, darker whole grains during the winter. packed with flavor and seeds, serve this loaf warm with a thick slab of butter or with your favorite instant pot stews.

notes

at first glance, the hydration might seem alarmingly high (85%), but the wheat flour absorbs it all and yields an extensible, pliable dough that isn’t sticky or hard to work with. i promise.

i’ve added a hefty portion of rye in addition to the whole wheat to add even more depth of flavor and to balance out water absorption a bit. when i think of my favorite seeded loaves (mostly dutch and german breads), rye is always there.

lastly, the seeds i’m using in the recipe are merely suggestions — i’ve opted for pumpkin, sunflower, hemp, and fennel seeds (the fennel in particular adds a beautiful flavor and i’d highly recommend if you are a fennel fan), but feel free to use whatever fits your fancy. i would recommend 40g of larger seeds and 20g of smaller seeds.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
whole wheat flour50%
bread flour35%
rye flour15%
water85%
salt2.5%
levain25%
seeds (dry)20%
steptime
levain build8 hours
bulk rise9 hours
folds3 folds
1 lamination
cold proof14 – 18 hours
bake45 minutes

seeded sourdough

4 seeds and 50% wheat yield a hearty winter loaf ready to sop up any shakshuka or soup that comes its way.

formula

levain build
  • 15 g levain
  • 15 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 60 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 60 g water @ 85°F
dough formula
  • 150 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 105 g king arthur flour bread flour
  • 45 g bob's red mill dark rye flour
  • 255 g water @ 90°F
  • 7 g sea salt
  • 75 g levain
multi-seed soaker
  • 20 g pumpkin seed
  • 20 g sunflower seed
  • 10 g hemp seed
  • 10 g fennel seed
multi-seed topper
  • 2 tbsp rolled oats
  • 1 tbsp pumpkin seeds
  • 1 tbsp sunflower seeds
  • 1 tbsp flax seeds

method

evening: prepare seeds
  • add seeds to a small jar, and cover with double the amount of water, about 120g. cover, and store in fridge overnight.
10:30 pm: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
[next morning] 6:30 am: autolyse
  • in a large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
7 am: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times. then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl. mix using the pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes. target final temperature should be 78 degrees.
7:10 am: bulk fermentation
  • this dough needs 1 lamination (see below) to incorporate the seeds, and 3 stretch and folds afterwards, spaced 45 minutes apart. in the wintertime with a room temperature of around 70°F, this dough needed a bulk rise of about 9 hours.
7:45 am: laminate in seeds
  • remove seed soaker from the fridge, and strain so there is no excess water.
  • spray a clean surface with water. dump out dough and stretch out onto wet surface, like you're making pizza.
  • sprinkle seed mixture onto dough evenly.
  • fold dough up section by section, until it resembles a stack.
  • incorporate seeds gently by mixing again using the pincer method for a few minutes.
3:30 pm: pre-shape (optional)
  • slowly transfer dough from bowl onto a lightly floured surface, so it lays out in a vaguely rectangular looking shape.
  • stretch the dough very lightly and gently fold it onto itself 4 times
3:40 pm: shape
  • i like shaping these like a batard, using what i like to call the "burrito method."
  • 1. gently tug the top, short end of the vaguely rectangular looking shape, and fold over a small section.
  • 2. grab a tiny bit of dough from the left side, and tug it over onto the right side. grab a tiny bit of dough from the right side and tug it over onto the left side. continue pattern downwards to form a stitch-like appearance.
  • 3. when you get close to the bottom end, fold over a small piece upwards. then do one final stitch to seal.
  • 4. take the top end of the burrito, and roll it over onto itself, kind of like a cinnamon roll.
  • 5. seal the ends by pinching the holes shut.
3:43 pm: coat
  • mix your multi-seed topper. i've included my ratio above, you can use whatever seeds or grains you'd like. just make sure these seeds are raw & untoasted — they'll get pretty toasty in the oven.
  • if the top of the dough is sticky enough, you should be able to grab a handful of your seed coating and directly cover the smooth face of the batard. if the top is not sticky enough, you can take a spray bottle and lightly spray the top until damp. then, the seed coating should pretty easily adhere to the dough.
3:45 pm: proof
  • lightly flour a lined bannetone or other proofing vesicle. flip the top of the dough over, and gently transfer the dough seam side up into the bannetone.
  • place bannetone inside of a blastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 16 hours.
[next morning] 7 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
7:55 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • scoring is tricky with this loaf because the seeds form a sort of crust on the proofed dough. i keep it simple with this loaf with just a single, vertical slash length wise, about 1/8" deep, and 1/4” away from both edges.
8 am: bake
  • transfer scored dough to dutch oven. decrease temperature to 485°F. with the lid on, bake for 30 minutes. then, decrease to 475°F and take the lid off. bake for about another 15 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a pretty deep brown).
11 am: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.

everything bagel sourdough

everything bagel sourdough

my only childhood bagel experiences were the day old, half priced bruegger’s asiago bagels my friends and i would sneak out of statistics class to buy at our high school cafeteria. when i moved to nyc, i entered the bagel mecca itself, and oh i had much. to. learn.

i learned not to toast the good ones (the sacrilege!).

i learned that pumpernickel had no association with leprechauns (ok but doesn’t it conjure up the image?).

i learned that the bagel could, and should, be used as a vehicle to consume many other delicious things, like peanut butter, or smoked salmon, or scallion cream cheese (but absolutely no vegetables allowed except for red onions, nuh uh).

this sourdough is an homage to nyc, my home for the last 4 years. it’s encrusted with the everything seasoning we know and love, with a higher percentage of rye and spelt for that familiar tang.

for maximal stickiness, cover the sticky dough with the seasoning post-shape and pre-flour. if you find the seasoning falling off, you can try wetting it a little bit before covering the dough with seasoning by spraying a bit of water.

everything bagel sourdough

the familiar sweet, salty, and savory flavors of an everything bagel paired with a rye-spelt sourdough

formula

levain build
  • 20 g levain
  • 20 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 80 g water @ 85°F
dough formula
  • 164 g king arthur bread flour
  • 100 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 33 g bob's red mill rye flour
  • 33 g spelt flour
  • 257 g water @ 90°F
  • 8 g sea salt
  • 80 g levain
  • 7 g additional water
everything seasoning topper
  • 3 tbsp poppy seeds
  • 3 tbsp sesame seeds
  • 3 tbsp coarse salt
  • 2 tbsp dried minced garlic
  • 2 tbsp dried minced onion

method

11 pm: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
[next morning] 7 am: autolyse
  • in a separate large bowl, mix all flours together.
  • slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
7:30 am: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough, and pour additional water over it to help the salt absorb. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • measure out the ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix using the pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes. target final temperature should be 78 degrees.
7:37 am: bulk fermentation
  • this dough bulks for about 8 hrs during spring/fall, longer if your kitchen runs cool or during winter, and shorter if your kitchen runs warm or during the summer.
  •  this dough needs 3-4 stretch and folds (or coil folds), and a round of lamination after the first fold, spaced about 45 minutes apart if possible.
3:20 pm: pre-shape
  • slowly transfer dough from bowl onto a lightly floured surface, so it lays out in a vaguely rectangular looking shape.
  • stretch the dough very lightly and gently fold it onto itself 4 times
3:30 pm: shape
  • i like shaping these like a batard, using what i like to call the "burrito method."
  • 1. gently tug the top, short end of the vaguely rectangular looking shape, and fold over a small section.
  • 2. grab a tiny bit of dough from the left side, and tug it over onto the right side. grab a tiny bit of dough from the right side and tug it over onto the left side. continue pattern downwards to form a stitch-like appearance.
  • 3. when you get close to the bottom end, fold over a small piece upwards. then do one final stitch to seal.
  • 4. take the top end of the burrito, and roll it over onto itself, kind of like a cinnamon roll.
  • 5. seal the ends by pinching the holes shut.
3:33 pm: coat
  • mix your own everything seasoning using the ratio listed, or buy some from trader joe's.
  • take a handful of the everything seasoning blend, and cover the smooth face of the shaped dough. if the smooth side is not sticky enough, take a spray bottle and lightly spray until just damp. the everything seasoning should adhere to the dough.
3:35 pm: proof
  • lightly flour a lined bannetone or other proofing vesicle. flip the top of the dough over, and gently transfer the dough seam side up into the bannetone.
  • place bannetone inside of a plastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 14-18 hours.
[next morning] 5:30 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
6:25 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • optional: sprinkle coarse corn meal on the bottom.
  • flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • scoring is tricky with this loaf because the everything seasoning forms a sort of crust on the proofed dough. i keep it simple with this loaf with just a single, vertical slash length wise, about 1/8" deep, and 1/4” away from both edges.
6:30 am: bake
  • transfer scored dough to dutch oven. decrease temperature to 485°F. with the lid on, bake for 30 minutes. then, decrease to 475°F and take the lid off. bake for another 15-20 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a pretty deep brown).
9:30 am: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.

guava cream cheese sourdough

guava cream cheese sourdough

peanut butter and jelly. apples and cheddar. chocolate milk shakes and fries. these are the three iconic sweet savory duos from my american childhood.

as i’ve had the opportunity to travel and try new foods in the past 10 years, i’ve discovered a variety of other iconic sweet savory duos: tahini and date spread in israel, matcha and red bean in asia, guava and cream cheese in latin america — the inspiration behind this lovely loaf.

guava is a small tropical fruit, with a light green waxy exterior and a soft, seeded, pink interior, with a texture similar to a soft pear. guava paste tastes kinda like strawberry jam with a hint of pear, and is usually sold in rectangular brick form. thankfully, this makes it way easier to cube.

the savory from the cream cheese beautifully counteracts the sweetness from the guava, all of which is encompassed in a soft, fluffy bread.

best enjoyed on its own as a dessert, snack, or breakfast. be prepared to audibly react to the deliciousness. don’t sleep on this pro-tip: makes for an amazing base for french toast after a couple of days.

notes

i use king arthur bread flour, trader joe’s all purpose, bob’s red mill rye, and farmer ground flour einkorn. i got guava paste from food bazaar, but it’s also available on amazon.

please adjust your levain and bulk times for when your kitchen is colder or warmer, about 1 hour more during the winter and 1 hour less during the summer.

i’ve included a video of the lamination technique, using @fullproofbaking’s lamination method.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
bread flour45%
all purpose flour45%
einkorn* flour5%
rye flour5%
water80%
salt2.5%
levain22%
guava paste30%
cream cheese30%
steptime
levain build7 hours
bulk rise8 hours
folds3 folds
cold proof14 – 18 hours
bake45 minutes

*can sub einkorn for whole wheat

guava cream cheese sourdough

a generous nod to, and bread interpretation, of the beloved latin american pastry, pastelitos de guayaba.

formula

levain build
  • 20 g levain
  • 20 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 80 g water @ 85-90°F
dough formula
  • 200 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 200 g king arthur bread flour
  • 20 g bob's red mill rye flour
  • 20 g einkorn flour
  • 345 g water @ 90-95°F
  • 100 g levain
  • 9 g sea salt
  • 7 g additional water
laminated mix-in
  • 130 g cream cheese cubed
  • 130 g guava paste cubed

method

11 pm: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula and stiff starter method.
[next morning] 7 am: autolyse
  • in a separate large bowl, mix all flours together.
  • slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
7:30 am: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough, and pour additional water over it to help the salt absorb. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • measure out the ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix using the pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes. target final temperature should be 78 degrees.
7:37 am: bulk fermentation
  • this dough bulks for about 8 hrs during spring/fall, longer if your kitchen runs cool or during winter, and shorter if your kitchen runs warm or during the summer.
  • this dough needs 3 stretch and folds, plus a round of lamination to incorporate the guava paste and cream cheese after the 1st fold, spaced about 45 minutes apart if possible. alternatively, you may also perform coil folds, at about the same cadence.
9 am: lamination
  • cut cream cheese and guava paste into cubes of equal size, around 3/4 to 1 inch.
  • perform lamination by first stretching dough like a pizza crust, and then spreading cream cheese and guava chunks evenly across the dough. fold into a rectangular shape.
3 pm: shape
  • i like to shape these like boules. stretch and fold the dough onto itself, rotating in a circular motion like you are doing a regular stretch and fold.
  • when it resembles a fist, flip it over onto itself. flour the top lightly, and then use both hands to drag the bottom about 6 inches to build in tension. this should result in a spherical, ball-like shape.
3:05 pm: proof
  • lightly flour a lined bannetone or proofing baske. gently transfer the dough seam side up to the bannetone. cover with a plastic bag, and put in fridge overnight for 14-18 hrs.
[next morning] 5:30 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
6:30 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • scoring is tricky with this loaf because of the lumpiness of the cream cheese and guava paste. i keep it simple with this loaf with just a single, vertical slash length wise, about 1/8" deep, and 1/4” away from both edges.
6:30 am: bake
  • transfer scored dough to dutch oven. decrease temperature to 485°F. with the lid on, bake for 30 minutes. then, decrease to 475°F and take the lid off. bake for another 15-20 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a medium brown with this loaf).
9:30 am: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.