a gluten-forward food diary

Tag: asian

pumpkin spice mooncakes

pumpkin spice mooncakes

in my early 20’s, i wasted way too much time worrying if my interests were cool.

when i moved to brooklyn, i found myself surrounded by a cluster of late 20-somethings with impeccable style and taste in music, two things i thought i sorely lacked.

i wanted to be quirky. i wanted to be hip. i knew at least, that i didn’t want to be basic.

and so, i began to keep quiet about the things i loved. sweetgreen salads. taylor swift. pumpkin spice.

luckily, i came to my senses and adopted a new perspective: who the f*ck cares? slowly, i learned to stop prioritizing the potential judgment of others over my own joy.

these mooncakes are a gift to that past self, dedicated to all the joys and comforts that fall brings us. embrace the things that make you you, and enjoy these with people that make you feel cozy 🥰.

notes

  • i prefer making 50g mooncakes. you can find pretty inexpensive molds on amazon.
  • i’ve tried adding the pumpkin spice to the puree mixture over heat, and found that it’s best to add towards the end. this prevents any spices from burning.
  • try to use the dough the same day or within a day. filling can be made the night before and refrigerated.
  • i tested storing the dough in the fridge overnight for one batch, and i’d say avoid resting it in the fridge if you can. it’s still workable, but will make the dough extra crumbly, crackly, and harder to handle. if you must, bring the dough balls up to room temp first before molding. it helps.
  • the dough recipe is from kristina cho’s honeyed pistachio mooncakes, and the filling is loosely inspired by this easy mooncake recipe from yan cooks food. if the mooncake wrapping and stamping instructions are unclear, please refer to either of the aforementioned instructions!
  • the final dough will be pretty oily. i add the oil in last, and sometimes will cut out 10g, which seems to have no change in workability or taste/texture

pumpkin spice mooncakes

a classic baked mooncake with a pumpkin spice paste interior

formula

for the dough
  • 300 g all purpose flour
  • 110 g canola (or another neutral) oil
  • 160 g lyle's golden syrup
  • 1 tsp lye water (pre-make)
for the filling
  • 1 can chickpeas (15 oz)
  • 150 g pumpkin puree
  • 110 g canola (or another neutral) oil, i used avocado
  • 2 tbsp maple syrup
  • 2 tbsp sugar
  • 2-3 tsp pumpkin spice mix (to taste)
for the wash
  • 1 egg
helpful tools
  • 1 egg wash brush
  • 1 scale
  • parchment paper
  • mooncake stamp molds

method

prepare the dough
  • make lye water in advance: preheat oven to 250℉. bake 1 tsp of baking soda on a small metal tray for 1 hour (you can also make a bigger batch in one go, and store it in a little jar). after it cools, mix 1 tsp of baked baking soda with 1 tbsp room temp water. stir until completely dissolved.
  • combine flour, golden syrup, oil, and lye water in a bowl.
  • knead to form a cohesive dough. shape into a disk.
  • cover completely in saran wrap or store in a bowl with a lid.
  • let rest at room temp for at least 40 min, up to 4 hours. do not store in fridge (this will cause the dough to stiffen)
make the filling
  • drain and rinse the can of chickpeas. if you see any skin peeling off, you can either throw them out or leave them (i've done both, and it's about the same)
  • add the chickpeas in a food processor, and blend until texture resembles wet sand. add pumpkin puree and blend until completely mixed.
    pumpkin puree filling immediately after blended
  • add the puree to a (preferably non stick) pan, and start cooking on low to medium heat.
  • slowly add and mix in the oil until fully incorporated.
  • then, stir in the maple syrup and sugar until fully incorporated.
  • continue cooking over low to medium heat, stirring continuously, until texture once again resembles stiff wet sand and can pile onto itself, ~40 min
    stiffened pumpkin filling
  • you don't have to hover over the stove the entire time, but you will want to make sure it's not sticking to the bottom or burning (maybe every ~5-10 min?)
  • when paste is ready, remove from heat and stir in the desired amount of pumpkin spice, to taste.
  • allow to cool completely before using.
assembly
  • preheat oven to 350℉
  • roll dough into balls of 20g, and roll pumpkin filling into balls of 25g. +/- 1g should be fine, you don't need to perfect with it.
  • place dough ball between two small pieces of parchment paper and flatten with fingers.
    flattening a mooncake wrapper
  • continue flattening until about 1mm thick, you'll want thickness to resemble a corn tortilla. you can use the bottom of a glass, a tortilla press, or your fingers.
  • carefully remove the dough wrapper from the parchment paper (it'll be fragile!) and place on palm of non-dominant hand (left hand for most people).
  • using your right hand, slowly pinch the dough wrapper around the filling ball, removing excess as you go. patch up the top with the extras at the end if needed.
    wrapping the mooncake filling
  • place the wrapped dough and filling ball seam side down on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
  • make sure the ball is shaped in a way that your stamp mold can encompass it. cover the ball with your mold, and tamp down firmly but gently.
  • remove by pushing the completed mooncake through the stamp, and gently wiggling the mooncake out if needed.
  • repeat until you've used up all the filling balls!
bake
  • place baking tray on top third of oven, and bake for 10 min, or until edges are lightly golden.
  • let cool for 10-15 minutes.
  • while cooling, make egg wash by beating 1 egg and 2 tbsp of water.
  • after cooling, brush a thin layer of egg wash over the tops and sides of the mooncakes.
  • bake for an additional 10 minutes.
serve
  • let cool completely before serving. mooncakes will have a crunchier exterior on the first day.
  • store in an airtight container for at least 1 day for the more traditional, soft and chewy exterior.
  • store in airtight container for up to 5 days.
sourdough discard sesame flatbread (shao bing 燒餅)

sourdough discard sesame flatbread (shao bing 燒餅)

this is the very first guest post on this blog! charlotte, the author, and i share a long, beautiful friendship over our love and appreciation for food (among many, many other things). we first met in 6th grade in surburban minnesota! her culinary creativity constantly inspires my own. i’ve made this recipe of hers a few times now, devouring most of the batch immediately after making them. without further ado, i’ll let charlotte take it from here. i hope you love these shao bing as much as we do!

– erica

taiwanese shao bing, as told and adapted by charlotte

while versions of this sesame flatbread abound throughout the chinese speaking world, most of my memories of shao bing 燒餅 are from summers spent in taiwan. there, shao bing are often served with a kind of fried cruller— you tiao 油條—sandwiched in between its flaky layers, then dunked in a steaming bowl of freshly pressed soy milk.

when i was younger, we would go to the neighborhood breakfast shop with my Ah Gong and Ah Ma, still shaking off the jet lag of a long international flight, sweating in the heat and humidity of the morning. we’d cram around one of the plastic tables ringed by round metal stools and order from the Lao Ban, watching him sling ladles of rice milk and flip rows of egg crepes at the front of the shop. everywhere the smell of frying dough, steaming xiao long bao, motorcycles, sun-on-asphalt. these little breakfast shops, once ubiquitous in taipei, have mostly given way to western-style cafes and bakeries.

but a few remain, and my family and i make a point to go every year. unable to travel to see family in taiwan this year, we’ve resorted to sighing longingly over old photos of past breakfasts, and occasionally attempting to recreate our favorites.

shao bing is one of my mother’s favorite breakfasts, and my sister and i endeavored to recreate them for mother’s day. i very loosely adapted this recipe from edwina at cooking in chinglish, incorporating sourdough discard rather than using instant yeast.

to serve

eat immediately after baking, for breakfast. we like them split open on the side with a scallion-flecked omelette nestled into the layers, or filled with heaps of fresh alfalfa sprouts and tomatoes and a dash of salt. honestly, they’re also pretty great plain.

serve with some freshly made peanut rice milk for a taste of a classic taiwanese breakfast.

bonus recipe: peanut rice milk

1/4 cup uncooked short grain white rice
1/2 cup peanuts, toasted
3 cups water
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

soak white rice 6-8 hours or overnight, then blend with peanuts and water until smooth. heat in a pan, stirring, until the milk begins to bubble and thicken. add sugar, and cook to desired consistency. tastes just as good iced as warm!

makes 2 servings

notes from erica

storage: in my experience, these don’t keep very well beyond a day. if you were to store them for later, i’d recommend underbaking them slightly, freezing them, and then popping them in a toaster oven for ~3-5 minutes to crisp them back up.

adjustments: as always, please adjust flour and water amounts based on the hydration of your starter.

oil: charlotte uses olive oil and i’ve tried both canola and vegetable oil. any of these work for a “neutral oil”.

sourdough discard sesame flatbread (taiwanese shaobing 燒餅)

crispy and studded with sesame seeds on the outside, soft and layered on the inside, this adaptation of a taiwanese breakfast favorite uses sourdough discard instead of yeast.

formula

dough
  • 180 g all purpose flour
  • 4 g sugar (1 tsp)
  • 105 g warm to hot water
  • 35 g sourdough starter discard (80% hydration)
  • 13 g neutral oil (1 tbsp)
  • 2 g salt (1/2 tsp)
oil paste
  • 35 g neutral oil (2.5 tbsp)
  • 30 g all purpose flour
  • 5 g cornstarch
topping
  • toasted white sesame seeds
  • black sesame seeds (optional)

method

prepare dough
  • mix flour, sugar, and 100 g water together in a medium sized bowl until it forms a cohesive dough. it should be pretty stiff. cover and let rest for 30 minutes.
  • with wet hands, mix in the remaining water and dough ingredients. knead well until it forms a soft, smooth dough, about 5-10 minutes by hand.
  • cover and let rest on counter for at least 4 hours, and up to 12 hours.
prepare oil paste
  • sift flour and cornstarch together in a small bowl.
  • heat oil in a pan on medium heat until hot. stirring constantly, add the sifted mixture into the oil, until the paste is darkens slightly and is toasty smelling (mmmm), about 5-10 minutes.
  • the paste should be smooth and spreadable, and should have the approximate consistency of tahini. if it is clumping, add more oil. if it seems too thin, add a little more flour.
  • pour into a small bowl, and set aside to cool.
assemble
  • preheat oven to 425°F.
  • on a lightly floured surface, dump out your dough. flour your rolling pin, and roll out dough into a roughly 10 x 16 in rectangle.
  • orient the rectangle such that the long side is facing you, and the shorter sides are on your left and right.
  • leaving about 1/2 in at the top, spread the oil paste to cover the surface area of the rectangle. you could do this with a spatula or your fingers!
  • like you would a cinnamon roll or a scallion pancake, slowly roll the dough up. pinch the seam at the top to close.
  • use a bench knife to divide the roll into 6 even sections.
shape
  • take one chunk of dough. fold the dough so you can pinch the cut ends together, forming a seam. if it starts to come apart a little, no worries! repeat for each piece.
  • take your first piece and orient it such that the seam side is up and is pointed towards you. using your rolling pin, flatten the dough it into an oval. the seam should be perpendicular to the rolling pin.
  • then, create a little dough envelope by first folding the top third of the oval down, and then folding the bottom third of the oval up.
  • repeat this process with each piece of dough until you have 6 dough envelopes.
  • repeat this rolling and folding procedure a second time for each piece, making sure you are always rolling perpendicular to the seam and folding the seam side in.
  • cover and let rest for 5-10 minutes to let the dough relax. in the meantime, prepare your sesame seed topping and line a large 18×13 in baking sheet or two smaller cookie sheets with parchment paper.
bake
  • take a roll of dough and press the smooth side into the sesame seeds. if the dough doesn't feel sticky, you can first brush or spritz the surface of the dough with a little bit of water before pressing into the seeds.
  • with the sesame seed side facing up, roll the dough out into a rectangle about 5-6 in long, and 3 in wide. set the completed flatbread sesame-side face up onto the baking sheet.
  • repeat with each piece of dough. these don't really spread, so don't worry about putting them close together.
  • bake for about 12 minutes, until they start to get golden brown on top but before they turn fully golden.
  • let cool on cooling rack for a couple minutes before digging in. to fill, slice along the side, or cut open with scissors.
sourdough discard kimchi pancakes (kimchijeon)

sourdough discard kimchi pancakes (kimchijeon)

although my korean food journey began with bowls of stone pot bibimbap in restaurants, i owe the bulk of my learning and appreciation to my korean friends. i have many happy memories of cooking for each other, swapping recipes from our childhoods and stories of our mothers.

those who are fans of my sourdough discard okonomiyaki know i’m a lover of savory pancakes. i’ve adapted this kimchi pancake recipe from maangchi, a true cooking legend. instead of flour and water, sourdough starter discard acts as the primary binder.

the tangy, funky, sourdough discard pairs beautifully with the tangy, funky kimchi. with only 8 ingredients and a 3 minute cook time, these pancakes are super easy, quick, and fun to make.

bonus: they’re vegan! just be sure to grab a vegan kimchi like sinto gourmet or chi kitchen. most store bought brands have seafood of some sort. you can also make it yourself if you’re feeling bold.

notes

the texture of this batter should resemble pancake batter. if it feels runny, add in all purpose flour until it reaches a firmer consistency.

this batter makes enough for two 8″ pancakes. feel free to modify the size of your pancakes! smaller ones will be easier to flip.

lastly, please adjust the recipe to suit your starter’s hydration. i have a stiff starter at 80% hydration. for help, my sourdough hydration math post and calculator explains how to calculate adjustments.

as a quick example, if your starter is 100%, the batter may come out too runny! to adjust, decrease sourdough discard amount to 130 g, and add an additional 20 g of all purpose flour.

sourdough discard kimchi pancakes (kimchijeon)

hot, crispy, chewy, crunchy, tangy, sour, and sweet all at the same time, these kimchi pancakes are incredibly fast and easy to make. adapted from maangchi, and can easily be made vegan.
Prep Time 5 minutes
Cook Time 3 minutes
Total Time 8 minutes

formula

  • 140 g kimchi
  • 80 g onion, chopped (about 1/4 of a medium onion)
  • 2 scallions, chopped
  • 8 g kimchi brine (~2 tbsp)
  • 8 g soy sauce (~2 tbsp)
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 g sugar (1/2 tsp)
  • 150 g sourdough discard
for frying
  • 2 tbsp neutral oil, vegetable or canola per pancake

method

  • combine all ingredients in a medium sized bowl, except the sourdough discard.
  • add the sourdough discard, and mix again until mixture becomes batter-like.
  • heat 1 tbsp of neutral oil in a 8-10" sized skillet on high heat until oil sizzles.
  • pour 1/2 of the batter into pan. spread out evenly into a pancake shape. cook for about 90 seconds, until side is golden brown.
  • using a thin spatula, first loosen edges. then, slide spatula underneath pancake and flip over onto the other side. cook the second side until golden brown, about 90 seconds again.
  • slide pancake carefully onto a plate or a cutting board. let cool slightly before slicing and eating. repeat with second pancake.
  • top optionally with sesame seeds and more chopped scallions. serve with dipping sauce of your choice.
extra crispy potstickers with sourdough discard skirt 煎饺

extra crispy potstickers with sourdough discard skirt 煎饺

years ago on one of my buzzfeed tasty binges, i saw a method of pan frying potstickers i had never seen before. using a cornstarch slurry, the mystery hand effortless created a lacy, crispy, delicious looking “skirt”.

as i recipe tested my dumplings last weekend, a light bulb went off in my head. what if i replaced the cornstarch slurry with watered down sourdough discard?

a few rounds of trial and error later, lo and behold — the crispiest, most delicious addition to a potsticker was born.

for the skeptics out there, do not sleep on this!! it’s absurdly good.

dumpling series

this is the last part of my three part series on sourdough discard dumplings!

  • in the first part, i explain my formula and method for making dumpling wrappers using sourdough discard.
  • in the second part, i focus on shandong style dumpling wrapping technique (with a vegan filling recipe!), and how i like to pay fry them.
  • this part describes my formula and method for adding a pretty, extra crispy skirt on your pan fried dumplings with a sourdough discard slurry.

read them all together to re-create my sourdough dumplings, or mix and match with different techniques or store-bought items.

notes

please adjust the hydration of the slurry based on your sourdough starter.

you can use this crispy skirt recipe and technique with any sort of homemade dumpling. it should even work with store-bought potstickers!

potstickers with extra crispy skirt from side angle

extra crispy potstickers with sourdough discard skirt

extra delicious, extra pretty potstickers decorated with sourdough discard slurry to create the extra crispy skirt. this recipe makes enough for a single 8" skillet serving. scale as needed, adjusting for skillet size.
Cook Time 11 minutes

formula

  • 25 g sourdough starter discard
  • 100 g warm water

method

  • on medium to medium-high heat, heat up a thin layer of oil in a 8" non-stick skillet.
  • while waiting, mix together discard and water with a fork or a whisk.
  • place 5 – 6 potstickers in a pinwheel shape in sizzling skillet. fry until lightly golden, about 1 minute.
  • then, slowly pour liquid slurry mixture into skillet. it should completely cover the bottom of the skillet.
  • cover with lid immediately. cook, covered, for 5 minutes.
  • remove cover, and let cook until water completely evaporated, about another 5 minutes. while cooking, loosen up sides with a spatula.
  • potstickers are done when skirt is thin, dry, and crisp. sides should be loose enough so that you can slide the spatula underneath the crispy skirt, and transfer it onto a plate.
  • make more slurry and repeat as desired with remaining potstickers. if you know you're making 5 batches of 6 potstickers each in total, you could make 5x the slurry up front, pouring 125g of it per batch, making sure to stir well before each pour.
  • enjoy on its own or with a black vinegar chili oil garlic-based dipping sauce!

sourdough discard dumplings 餃子 part ii

sourdough discard dumplings 餃子 part ii

dumpling series

this is the second part of my three part series on sourdough discard dumplings!

  • in the first part, i explain my formula and method for making dumpling wrappers using sourdough discard.
  • in this part, i focus on shandong style dumpling wrapping technique (with a vegan filling recipe!), and how i like to pay fry them.
  • the third part describes my formula and method for adding a pretty, extra crispy skirt on your pan fried dumplings with a sourdough discard slurry.

read them all together to re-create my sourdough dumplings, or mix and match with different techniques or store-bought items.

notes

this guide assumes you are beginning with a set of dumpling wrappers.

after wrapping your dumplings, you can freeze them for 3 months. i put dumplings on a well floured sheet pan and pop them into the freezer until firm before transferring them into a re-usable ziploc like container for longer term freezer storage.

easy vegan filling

vegan cabbage dumpling filling

formula

  • 200 g firm tofu
  • 200 g cabbage
  • 10 g salt
  • sesame oil
  • soy sauce

method

  • in a food processor, blend firm tofu until smooth, like the consistency of cream cheese. remove and transfer to large bowl.
  • blend cabbage in food processor until cabbage is in fine chunks. then add to tofu, and mix until well combined into a cabbage-tofu paste.
  • heat up a small amount of oil in a large skillet on medium – high. when sizzling, add cabbage-tofu mixture. add 10 g salt, and a drizzle of sesame oil and soy sauce to taste.
  • cook for 3 – 4 minutes until cabbage changes color and any liquid has evaporated.
  • let cool for at least 15 minutes before using.

shandong style wrapping method

to begin, hold a single wrapper flat in your open-facing left hand.

next, put a spoonful of filling inside the center of the wrapper. this photo shows a generous amount, but i would start off with less filling until you get a hang of it. you may need to pack your filling slightly.

after filling, pinch opposite sides together at the middle with your other hand so it looks kind of like a cannoli.

to close, we start at the left end of the dumpling.

start by tucking the filling in on the left side by poking it lightly inward. then, fold the dough at the tip inward slightly and firmly pinch shut.

continue firmly pinching upwards until you meet the center pinch. the dough can overlap at times but you don’t need to be precise with it.

when shut securely, repeat with the other side! give it an extra squeeze for closure.

when complete, set aside on a well floured surface, and repeat with the rest of your dumplings. freeze or cook them immediately.

pan frying potstickers

to cook, i usually pan fry or boil them. serious eats wrote up a great guide that approximates what my family does for both fresh and frozen homemade dumplings.

on medium to medium-high heat, heat up a thin layer of oil in a non-stick skillet. place as many dumplings as you can fit in sizzling skillet. fry until lightly golden, about 1 minute.

then, pour a thin layer of water, covering the bottom of the skillet. cover the lid immediately and cook for 5 minutes. remove cover and cook until bottoms are golden brown and water is completely evaporated.

sourdough discard dumplings 餃子 part i

sourdough discard dumplings 餃子 part i

dumpling series

this is the first part of my three part series on sourdough discard dumplings!

  • in this part, i explain my formula and method for making dumpling wrappers using sourdough discard.
  • in the second part, i focus on shandong style dumpling wrapping technique (with a vegan filling recipe!), and how i like to pay fry them.
  • the third part describes my formula and method for adding a pretty, extra crispy skirt on your pan fried dumplings with a sourdough discard slurry.

read them all together to re-create my sourdough dumplings, or mix and match with different techniques or store-bought items.

my story

i learned how to make dumplings from generations of women in my family passing down this one tradition.

from a young age my mother made it clear to me that the way we made dumplings was not like other chinese families. first, she said, we made our own wrappers. this skill, she urged, was not one to be overlooked.

thus, my childhood kitchen table became my training ground. me struggling to roll out dumpling wrappers while my palms hurt, mom generously wrapping plump morsels, dad manning the boiling station, brother too young to contribute beyond eating (eventually stepping up into assistant wrapper).

my grandparents and i
my grandparents and i in tai an 泰 安 (2015)

there are many different ways to make “chinese” dumplings. each region has its preferences for wrapping, pleating, filling, and cooking methods.

shandong 山东 style dumplings are known for thicker, chewier dumpling wrappers. they are fat with filling, and don’t care to impress with braided pleating. oftentimes my mother squeezes them shut in a dual cupping pinching motion i have yet to master.

though incorporating sourdough discard into the dumpling dough is far from traditional, it does create a flavor that’s very compatible with the black vinegar sauce and fillings i usually use (cabbage or carrots).

more importantly, i wanted to develop this recipe to bring together two of my most important worlds. i wanted to share this piece of my story with all of you, and share it in an incredibly delicious way.

notes

although the formula is new, this is the process my family has always followed for homemade dumpling wrappers. the rolling method is tricky and will take practice to get used to. i can’t promise that it’s foolproof, but i can promise to try my best in communicating what the women in my family have taught me.

as always, please adjust the water and flour amounts based on the hydration of your starter.

if you have leftover dough, you can use it to make a scallion pancake.

uncooked dumplings

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour100%
water50%
unfed levain (discard)50%
steptime
autolyse2-3 hr
fry7-10 min
boil5 min

sourdough discard dumpling wrappers 餃子皮

mildly tangy DIY dumpling wrappers to wrap any filling of your liking. pairs particularly well with veggies that taste good pickled, like cabbage and carrots.
Prep Time 40 minutes
Resting Time 2 hours
Total Time 2 hours 40 minutes

formula

  • 200 g all purpose flour
  • 100 g warm water
  • 100 g sourdough starter discard

method

  • in a large bowl, mix flour and warm water until it just comes together (the dough will look slightly stringy). then, add the sourdough starter discard.
  • knead the dough together for 3-4 minutes into a ball. the dough should appear smoother, but will not look completely smooth.
  • let rest, covered, for 2-3 hours.
  • take the dough out onto a floured surface, and cut in half.
  • flatten one piece of dough into a rectangle that is 1 inch tall, so that the short end is 2 inches wide, and the long end is around 7 – 8 inches. cut length wise.
  • cut each dough piece into 1 inch-ish segments, resulting in 15 or so segments. roll each segment in flour.
  • flatten each segment into a disc shape.
  • on a floured surface using a rolling pin, roll out each puffy disc into a smooth, flattened dumpling wrapper. you want the edges of the disc to end up slightly thinner, and the center to be slightly thicker. this is both so that when the edges are folded together the thickness will be similar to the rest of the dumpling, and also to prevent tears while cooking.
  • i get this result by first tugging the edge of the puffy disc with my left hand, while rolling over a small section of it on the opposite side with my right hand over the rolling pin. then, i rotate counter-clockwise a small amount, and repeat the rolling motion. this light tugging, rolling, and rotating sequence is repeated until the wrapper is flattened.
  • when complete, put completed wrapper on a well floured surface.
  • repeat with each disc — keep well floured and do not stack to prevent sticking!
  • use immediately to wrap your dumplings or potstickers. no need to wet these when wrapping, as the fresh dough should produce enough stickiness for the sides to naturally adhere to each other.
  • repeat all over again with the other half of the dough, to get around 30 dumpling wrappers (and dumplings) in total.
sourdough discard okonomiyaki

sourdough discard okonomiyaki

the wonderfully talented caroline schiff reminded me recently that that frying up sourdough discard on its own makes for a pretty damn tasty pancake. this, of course, had me dreaming of all the savory pancakes i’ve loved in my life and how to recreate them.

okonomiyaki, a japanese savory pancake made predominantly out of cabbage, is one of my favorites. it’s customizable, crisp, chewy, dangerously easy, disproportionately delicious, and very, very, pretty. i think of it as a relatively healthy conduit to eat a bunch of sauces i always want excuses to eat.

cabbage also happens to be one of the heartiest vegetables and lasts forever (at least in quarantine time), so of course i have an unreasonable amount now stocked up in my apt during this pandemic. wishing i could hop on a plane get myself to japan this spring, but this pancake will have to do.

notes

the toppings i’ve listed are mere suggestions. feel to top with whatever you have on hand, and whatever you find delicious. ketchup or kimchi works just as well as sriracha or chili crisp.

maybe cabbage and carrots aren’t your thing. that’s ok. feel free to throw in other vegetables or scallions in you have on hand that have similar texture to substitute (daikon, broccoli stems, etc.) for a non-traditional, but likely still delicious savory pancake.

other additions: for the non-vegetarians, kenji says you also fry it in some pork belly or bacon, and top with dried bonito flakes. for an eggier pancake, add an additional egg and 50 g additional veggies.

i’ve made these the size of a regular pancake or the traditionally larger size, either works. remember that the larger the pancake, the harder it will be to flip!

sourdough discard okonomiyaki

a dangerously easy, disproportionately delicious vegetarian japanese savory cabbage pancake using sourdough discard as a batter base.
Prep Time 2 minutes
Cook Time 8 minutes
Total Time 10 minutes

formula

for the pancake
  • 160 g cabbage, finely chopped or grated
  • 40 g carrots, finely chopped or grated
  • 100 g sourdough starter discard
  • 8 g soy sauce
  • 1 egg
  • pinch of salt
  • vegetable or canola oil (for frying)
for the toppings
  • kewpie (or another mayo)
  • hoison sauce
  • nori sesame seed mix
  • lao gan ma chili crisp
  • sriracha

method

  • in large bowl, combine sourdough discard, egg, soy sauce, and a pinch of salt. mix well with fork or whisk until it becomes a batter like consistency.
  • add in shredded vegetables. toss until vegetables are coated in batter.
  • heat up oil on a skillet on med-high heat. when oil is sizzling hot, spoon in mixture and flatten to form in the shape of a pancake.
  • cover and cook for 3-4 minutes, or until bottom is golden brown. flip, using a spatula or a lid, and continue cook for another 3-4 minutes, uncovered. okonomiyaki is done when both sides are crispy and golden brown.
  • serve immediately, while warm, on a plate with toppings of your choice. i like to drizzle mayo (preferably kewpie) and hoison sauce, and top with sesame seeds, scallions, and lao gan ma chili crisp.
sourdough discard scallion pancakes 葱油饼

sourdough discard scallion pancakes 葱油饼

growing up, my mother made dumplings from scratch at least once a month. she always purposely made extra dumpling dough, and with the remains, we’d make scallion pancakes, often without the scallions.

a thing to know about my mom: whenever my mom makes anything, she always guesstimates. “eyeballing”, she would say, is the chinese way.

unfortunately, i don’t have my mother’s eyeballs. maybe it’s that i’ve absorbed a more western (?) philosophy, finding mostly comfort and curiousity in the precision of baking. thus, most of my adult life has been a journey to furiously scribble down measurements whenever i can and whenever my mom will let me pull out my tools to take weights or temperatures or to ask more questions than necessary.

the first recipe i managed to write down correctly was one for scallion pancakes. i was 17 and in college and really craving something other than our student center’s tofu teriyaki when i emailed home for some ratios. after some trial and error and tweaking, i finally got a version that had the same texture as my mothers.

this recipe is a sourdough discard adaptation of that original recipe.

notes

i have a stiff starter that’s 80% hydration. please adjust amount of water in final dough to account for your starter’s hydration.

these are pretty traditional scallion pancakes. for a fluffy version characteristic of northern china, check out my leavened, fluffy sourdough discard scallion pancake recipe.

if you read the introductory paragraph, you’ll realize that you can use this dough formula to make dumpling wrappers as well! i’d recommend letting the dough rest for an extra hour or two before cutting and rolling out.

this recipe makes one single-serving pancake. feel free to double and triple as you please.

the shaping technique described in this recipe optimizes for distinct layers. you can also use the roll & snail technique found in my other scallion pancake recipe for a more traditional swirl aesthetic.

bonus non-gluten side salad recipe

i sometimes like to serve this with a traditional cucumber salad. the slight tang from the sourdough with the sourness of the black vinegar is a winning combo in my book. the sauce that sits at the bottom ends up being a great dipping sauce.

slice up one cucumber, mince 2-3 cloves of garlic, throw in a couple good glugs of black vinegar, a sprinkle of salt, and a spoonful of extra crunchy peanut butter (optional). shake or toss or mix until all ingredients combined. drizzle with sesame oil to top, and serve immediately.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour100%
water45%
unfed levain (discard)50%
steptime
autolyse1-2 hr
fry6-8 min

sourdough discard scallion pancakes 葱油饼

made with leftover sourdough discard, these scallion pancakes have the traditional crispy exterior with a thin, chewy interior. now featuring my mother's super easy technique for painless, plentiful, distinct pancake layers.
Prep Time 7 minutes
Cook Time 8 minutes
Rest Time 1 hour
Total Time 1 hour 15 minutes

formula

dough formula
  • 100 g all purpose flour
  • 45 g warm water
  • 50 g sourdough starter discard
filling
  • 12 g canola oil (more to fry in)
  • 3 g salt
  • 20-25 g scallions, chopped finely (2-3 stalks)
optional topping
  • 1 handful sesame seeds, to taste

method

  • mix discard (you can use straight from the fridge) and water together. then mix in flour completely, kneading lightly until dough forms a ball shape and until smooth, about 3-5 minutes. the dough should feel smooth and pliable, like a soft playdoh.
  • leave in bowl and keep covered for 1-2 hours.
  • to prevent sticking, oil dough very slightly. using a rolling pin, roll out dough as thin as possible (without it breaking when you pick it up), into a circular or square shape.
  • drizzle oil evenly across rolled out dough. dab each corner towards the center and wiggle slightly to ensure that oil is evenly spread across dough. then, lightly sprinkle salt evenly across flat dough. repeat with the scallions.
  • take one end of the dough, and fold down flatly on itself, about 2-3 inches. keep folding until you get a shape resembling a flattened roll.
  • then, take one end of the flattened roll and continue to fold it onto itself, about 2-3 inches at a time, until you get a final square shape. the dough should be quite folded onto itself at this point.
  • using a rolling pin, roll out thinly and firmly to form about an 8 in circle or a square. don't worry if oil or scallions start peeping out!! you'll want the pancake to be thin, without breaking when handled.
  • once flattened, sprinkle sesame seeds on one side.
  • now you're ready to fry! turn your stove to high heat. take a skillet pan and coat the bottom with oil, and wait until oil sizzles.
  • when the oil sizzles, handle pancake gently and place into the hot skillet pan. cook for 3-4 minutes on each side, until both sides are golden brown.
  • when done, remove from skillet pan and let cool slightly before cutting in!
fluffy sourdough chinese scallion pancakes 发面葱油饼

fluffy sourdough chinese scallion pancakes 发面葱油饼

🧧 happy lunar new year!!! 🧧

this past friday marked the beginning of the two week holiday period known as spring festival 春节, a huge celebration in mainland china to usher in the new year. festivities often include extravagant amounts of delicious food, a lot of quality family time, and even more echos of wishing each other health, happiness, and prosperity.

as a kid, my family used to gather with a few other chinese families in the greater twin cities area for a celebratory potluck dinner, where each family would bring their specialty dish, taking pride in their regional cuisine. raised in northern china where the food is more wheat based (rather than rice), my mom was known for her dumplings and flatbreads.

the apple don’t fall far from the tree i guess.

this recipe is a way to share a piece of my mother’s cooking and pride in our region. i adapted her yeasted scallion pancake 发面葱油饼 (fa mian cong you bing) recipe to use sourdough discard, and fell in love with the result. soft & fluffy on the inside with a perfectly umami laden & crispy exterior, this is a perfect way to get every last bit of leavening power from your sourdough starter discard.

fluffy sourdough discard scallion pancake cut into slices and stacked

notes

i went through a lot of trial and error with this recipe.

  • some variations that were successful: i’ve used discard both at room temp and straight out of the fridge. the water temperature listed in the recipe below is for discard straight out of the fridge. for room temp you can use water 90-95°F.
  • some that were less successful: this dough at a lower hydration doesn’t achieve the lightness we want, and the dough at a higher hydration becomes hard to roll out. i’d recommend sticking to 54-56%
  • i didn’t test an overnight refrigerated proof at all, but that could be interesting to experiment with.

importantly, i use discard from a stiff levain. please tweak flour and water proportions to accommodate for your levain’s hydration. as an example calculation:

  • my starter is 80% hydration with a 5:4:1 ratio of flour to water to starter. this means that 50g of starter is composed of about 28g flour and 22g water (or if you’re real nerdy like me, 50g = x + 0.8x, solve for x)
  • if your starter is 100% hydration (1:1:1 ratio), that means that 50g of starter is composed of 25g of flour and 25g of water. so to match the recipe, add 3g more flour and 3g less water. ta-da!

i also wrote a blog post about this math with a few helpful calculator tools!

lastly, if you enjoyed this, i’d so appreciate you taking a second to rate and leave a comment all the way at the bottom. i love hearing feedback and it brings me so much joy to know you’re making this recipe!

freshly cut scallions green onions

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour100%
water54%
unfed levain (discard)30%
steptime
first rise1 hour
second rise1 hour
proof1 hour
final rise1.5-2 hours
fry12-14 min
fluffy sourdough discard scallion pancake dough

fluffy sourdough discard chinese scallion pancakes 发面葱油饼

fluffy, chinese scallion pancakes are a yeasted flatbread typical of northern china. this delicious adaption is naturally leavened using sourdough discard.
Prep Time 6 minutes
Cook Time 14 minutes
Resting Time 5 hours
Total Time 5 hours 20 minutes

formula

dough formula
  • 165 g all purpose flour
  • 89 g water, 100°F
  • 50 g sourdough starter discard
filling
  • 10 g oil (olive, vegetable, or canola)
  • 3 g fine-grained salt
  • 25 g scallions, chopped finely (2-3 stalks)
optional topping
  • 1 handful sesame seeds

method

  • mix flour and water together until you see chunks and strands, but before it's come together completely. then, add the sourdough starter discard.
  • mix together completely, kneading lightly until dough forms a ball shape. leave in bowl and keep covered for 1 hour.
  • after an hour, knead lightly for 1 minute, until top appears smooth. Put back in bowl and cover again for 1 hour.
  • take dough out of bowl and knead lightly again for 1 minute. drizzle a small amount of oil on top to prevent sticking.
  • oil your working surface to ensure dough does not stick. using a rolling pin, roll out dough until about 1/2 in. thick. rest, covered, for 1 hour.
  • the dough should look slightly puffier. roll out again, like you're making cinnamon rolls, into a rectangular shape until about 1/4 in. thick.
  • drizzle oil evenly across rolled out dough. dab each corner towards the center and wiggle slightly to ensure that oil is evenly spread across dough. lightly sprinkle salt evenly across flat dough, and repeat with the scallions.
  • take the shorter end of the rectangle, and begin rolling up the rectangle like a jelly roll (or a fruit rollup or cinnamon rolls!). roll this tightly to achieve more layers — i recommend going pretty slowly to ensure getting the middle and edges.
  • once complete, shape the roll to form a coil. the end result should look like a circular snail's shell. tuck the end of the roll underneath the coil, and press firmly.
  • oil your working surface again to ensure dough does not stick. using a rolling pin, roll the final circle out slightly to form a 7-8 in circle. cover, and let rest for 1.5-2 hours.
  • the dough should look slightly domed when you uncover it. using a rolling pin, roll lightly until top is flat. you want to maintain the thickness, so careful not to compress. if desired, sprinkle an even layer of sesame seeds on both sides. using a light touch, roll over the sesame seed studded dough with your rolling pin to seal them in.
  • now you're ready to fry! turn your stove to high heat. take a skillet pan and coat the bottom with oil, and wait until oil sizzles.
  • when the oil sizzles, place the dough into the skillet pan. lower heat to medium-high and cook, covered, for 5 minutes. using a spatula, flip and cook other side for 5 minutes.
  • fry until sides are golden brown and crispy, about 2 more minutes per side.
  • when done, remove from skillet pan and let cool slightly before cutting in. serve warm along side vegetables, with a dipping sauce, or as a snack. enjoy the scallion pancake like you've never enjoyed the before.