a gluten-forward food diary

Tag: add-in

cheddar pepper sourdough

cheddar pepper sourdough

we could all use a little more comfort in our lives right now, even in the blistering heat of summer. for me, no other food combination spells out comfort more than cheese and carbs.

this loaf deliciously combines the best of both worlds. the savory creaminess from the melted cheese comes in sporadic pockets, with the subtle spiciness from the black pepper running throughout.

this cheese and black pepper combo has easily become one of my favorites.

notes

as always, please adjust the formula based on the hydration of your starter, and adjust the timing of the bulk rise based on the temperature of your kitchen. this recipe was developed during the summer, in a 80 degree kitchen. please add an hour during the shoulder months, and two hours in winter months.

i used mccormick’s ground black pepper to develop this recipe, which i found to be fairly weak in flavor. i liked the flavor better at 2.5%, which for a 400 g flour loaf was 10 g of black pepper. i did not try this with freshly cracked black pepper. if you do bake this with freshly cracked black pepper which usually carries a stronger flavor, please be sure to reduce the amount.

cubing a block of cheese yourself is the secret to melty cheese pockets! shredded cheese will not yield the same effect. i like to use sharp, white cheddar cheese, but i bet a similar type of cheese would work just as well.

parchment paper is important here because the cheese will melt and get stuck to your dutch oven! that being said, the parchment paper might also get stuck to the loaf due to melted cheese. peel and scrape it off before enjoying.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
all purpose flour60%
whole wheat flour20%
bread flour20%
water80%
salt2.5%
levain22%
cheddar cheese30%
black pepper2.5%
steptime
levain build6 hours
bulk rise6.5 hours
folds4 folds &
1 lamination
cold proof12 – 16 hours
bake45 minutes

cheddar pepper sourdough

like mac and cheese in sourdough bread, this loaf is speckled with black pepper and caves of melted cheddar cheese.

formula

levain build
  • 15 g unfed levain
  • 15 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 60 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 60 g water @ 85°F
dough formula
  • 240 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 80 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur bread flour
  • 320 g water @ 90°F
  • 10 g sea salt
  • 88 g ripe levain
add-ins
  • 120 g white sharp cheddar cheese, cubed
  • 8 – 10 g black pepper, to taste

method

  • cubed cheese and pepper
7 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
12 pm: autolyse
  • in a large bowl, mix all flours together. slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 60 minutes.
1 pm: bulk fermentation
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times. then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix, alternating between using the rubaud and pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes.
  • let dough rise at room temp until it doubles and appears gaseous, about 6.5 hours in the summertime (kitchen ~80°F)
  • this dough needs 4 sets of coil folds, spaced 45 min apart, starting at the beginning. after the first coil fold, perform lamination to incorporate cheese and pepper.
  • sample schedule:
    – 1:45 pm fold #1
    – 2:30 pm laminate in cubed cheese and ground pepper
    – 3:15 pm fold #2
    – 4 pm fold #3
    – 4:45 pm fold #4
7:30 pm: shape
  • i like to shape these like a batard.
  • on a generously floured surface, gently guide dough onto the table. first tug and fold the dough lightly on itself in each direction: top, left, right, bottom, like you're folding up paper.
  • then, knit the left and right sides together like you're stitching up a seam.
  • finish by taking the top end of the dough, and rolling it up like a scroll, perpendicular to the seam.
  • flip dough over, seam side down on an unfloured surface. pinch ends shut.
7:35 pm: proof
  • generously flour an unlined bannetone (for the swirl aesthetic). flip the dough over with a bench knife, and gently transfer the dough, seasm side up, into the bannetone.
  • place bannetone inside of a plastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 12 – 16 hours.
[next morning] 9:30 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
10:30 am: bake
  • scored loaf
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • very slowly, flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • score your loaf with a lame. i like to score this with a single deep cut down the center with some optional lighter flourishes to each side.
  • transfer scored dough to dutch oven. decrease temperature to 475°F. with the lid on, bake for 30 minutes. then, take the lid off. bake for another 12 – 15 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a pretty deep brown).
12:30 pm: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.
olive sourdough

olive sourdough

i wish i could say that perusing the olive and cheese selection at the park slope food coop is what inspired me to make this loaf, but alas. i must confess i made this loaf because i once loved a man who really, really loved olives.

he didn’t live in new york (or even in this country), and for some reason i got it in my head that if only he tried a piece of this bread, he would consider moving brooklyn. yes, the loaf was truly that tasty.

a year has gone and passed since then. my hypothesis was never tested, as our relationship was too short-lived for him to try this bread.

luckily, this recipe lives on.

salty, tangy, always leaving you wanting more. feed this to all the lovers and olive lovers in your life. please do let me know if it has the intended effect 😉

notes

be sure to buy pre-pitted olives! i most certainly, definitely am not including this because i learned this the hard way heh (but seriously, de-pitting them was a n00b lesson you will now not have to repeat).

for lamination videos, check out my guava cream cheese post or @fullproofbaking.

my regular batch of caveats: please be wary of starter hydration and seasonal timing adjustments (for me it means about +1 hr in the summer, and about -1 hr in the winter).

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
bread flour50%
all purpose flour20%
whole wheat flour20%
rye flour10%
water80%
salt2.5%
levain24%
steptime
levain build7 hours
bulk rise8 hours
folds3 folds
cold proof14 – 18 hours
bake45 minutes

olive sourdough

the rye, wheat, and olive combo makes for a salty, tangy, loaf that always leaves you wanting more. a great accompaniment to a cheese plate.

formula

levain build
  • 20 g levain
  • 80 g water @ 85-90°F
  • 20 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur all purpose flour
dough formula
  • 164 g king arthur bread flour
  • 66 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 67 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 33 g rye flour
  • 257 g water @ 90-95°F
  • 8 g sea salt
  • 80 g levain
  • 7 g additional water
lamination
  • 82 g pitted olives

method

11pm: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method.
[next morning] 7 am: autolyse
  • in a separate large bowl, mix all flours together.
  • slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
7:30 am: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough, and pour additional water over it to help the salt absorb. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • measure out the ripe starter, and add to dough.
  • mix using the pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes. target final temperature should be 78 degrees.
7:37 am bulk fermentation
  • this dough bulks for about 8 hrs at room temp during spring/fall, longer if your kitchen runs cool or during winter, and shorter if your kitchen runs warm or during the summer.
  • this dough needs around 3-4 stretch and folds (or coil folds), and an additional round of lamination after the first fold to incorporate the olives. these steps should be spaced about 45 minutes apart if possible.
  • example schedule:
    8:15 AM fold #1. 9 AM lamination. 9:45 AM fold #2. 10:30 AM fold #3.
9 am: lamination
  • cut pitted olives in half.
  • perform lamination by first stretching dough like a pizza crust, and then spreading olive chunks evenly across the dough. fold onto itself into a rectangular shape.
3 pm: shape
  • slowly transfer dough from bowl onto a lightly floured surface, so it lays out in a vaguely rectangular looking shape.
  • i like shaping these like a batard, using what i like to call the "burrito method."
  • 1. gently tug the top, short end of the vaguely rectangular looking shape, and fold over a small section.
  • 2. grab a tiny bit of dough from the left side, and tug it over onto the right side. grab a tiny bit of dough from the right side and tug it over onto the left side. continue pattern downwards to form a stitch-like appearance.
  • 3. when you get close to the bottom end, fold over a small piece upwards. then do one final stitch to seal.
  • 4. take the top end of the burrito, and roll it over onto itself, kind of like a sushi roll.
  • 5. seal the ends by pinching the holes shut.
3:05 pm: proof
  • lightly flour a lined bannetone or other proofing vesicle. flip the top of the dough over, and gently transfer the dough seam side up into the bannetone.
  • place bannetone inside of a plastic bag to cover, and place in fridge overnight for 14-18 hours.
[next morning] 6 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
6:55 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • optional: sprinkle coarse corn meal on the bottom. flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • using a lame, score length wise, about 1/8" deep, and 1/2" away from both edges. sometimes, i optionally add a leaf design as well for flourish
7 am: bake
  • slowly and carefully lift the parchment paper with the dough into the hot dutch oven. decrease temperature to 475°F. bake for 30 minutes with the lid on.
  • take the lid off, and bake for another 15-20 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go medium brown for this loaf).
10 am: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.
pandemic focaccia

pandemic focaccia

i’ve been making a lot of focaccia recently. it seems like the entire world is stress baking along with me as a result of coronavirus.

my covid-19 experience thus far has been rocky: i’ve been away from my home and home kitchen this past month as part of a residency program in a different part of brooklyn. i definitely wasn’t expecting to face a once-in-a-lifetime, once-in-a-century global pandemic in not-my-home with not-my-family in the now-global-epicenter, but hey, here we are, and this too, shall pass.

as a result of the unfamiliarity, i’ve been revisiting old recipes that bring me comfort, like this sourdough discard focaccia. i’ve made this specific flavor combination four times this past week and plan to make it many more times this week to pull me through what i can only describe as shared global grief and trauma. i’ve loaded this focaccia with so many of my favorite things: heavy with ricotta, so much so that it tastes quite like a white pizza, generously topped with caramelized onions.

it feels almost luxurious to be able to eat this during a time of crisis, especially when i consider the additional luxury i have to be able to work from home. i keep telling myself that it’s ok to enjoy and appreciate and be grateful for the tiny beautiful things.

so bake this and share it with your loved ones. feed this to those you live with. tell them they mean something to you. don’t hold back on the cheese. don’t hold back on the drizzle. don’t hold anything back at all.

wishing all of you and your communities lots of love, connection, safety, health — and a lot, a lot of bread.

notes

the dough used in this recipe is the exact same formula as my sourdough discard focaccia, but i’ve simplified it a bit. my original recipe uses einkorn flour, but i’ve found i can really use any non-white flour in its stead (though einkorn flour still produces my favorite texture).

i’ve also just defaulted the hydration to 80% and a 12 hour bulk time, given that i’ve found higher hydration and a long bulk time yield a jigglier dough and better structured crumb.

i often double this recipe and make two batches at once. increase the bake time slightly if you’re going to be baking multiple pans or a larger focaccia. the shape of the pan won’t matter too much, but the size does. i usually like to use a pan that is just slightly bigger than my stretched out focaccia.

pandemic focaccia

a sweet, savory, spicy and luxurious focaccia to weather a once in a lifetime global pandemic. or just to eat casually on a monday night to treat yoself.

formula

dough formula
  • 180 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 60 g king arthur bread flour
  • 60 g any low protein flour, like whole wheat
  • 240 g water, 90-95°F
  • 7 g sea salt
  • 60 g discard starter
to top, pre-bake
  • 230 g ricotta
  • 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
  • 4 g coarse salt
  • 9 g extra virgin olive oil
to top, post-bake
  • 1/2 large onion, caramelized (more if desired)
  • 1 tbsp red pepper chili flakes
  • 1 tbsp raw honey

method

9 pm: make dough
10 pm: bulk fermentation
  • this dough needs an overnight bulk rise of about 12 hours.
[next morning] 9:20 am: prepare the onions
  • julienne the onions. add 1-2 tbsp of butter to a skillet on low to medium heat. add onions and cook low and slow for 30-45 minutes, stirring occasionally until onions turn transluscent and then turn a caramel color.
9:30 am: preheat
  • preheat oven to 500°F. this takes a while for my oven so i usually do it 30-45 minutes before i plan to bake. at this point the dough should be jiggly and bubbly!
10 am: shape
  • generously oil the bottom of a 9×13 metal pan. turn the dough out carefully onto the greased pan.
  • using your fingers or knuckles, gently stretch the dough to the shape of the pan, until about 1/2 to 1 inch thick, dimpling the dough in the process.
  • let rest about 5-10 minutes
10:10 am: top, pre-bake
  • take tablespoon-fulls of ricotta and plop evenly on top of focaccia into the dimples. i like to densely spoon ricotta to get a pizza-like focaccia. add as much or as little as you'd like.
  • sprinkle coarse salt and rosemary to taste, on top of dimpled dough. then, drizzle olive oil.
10:15 am: bake
  • bake at 500°F until the top becomes golden brown, usually for 15 – 20 minutes depending on your oven. if you make a double recipe baking time can increase to about 25 minutes.
10:35 am: top, post-bake
  • remove baked focaccia onto a cooling rack. using tongs (or another utensil), gently distribute your caramelized onions on top. sprinkle with red pepper flakes, to taste.
  • let cool for at least 5 minutes, and drizzle honey on top before slicing and serving.
guava cream cheese sourdough

guava cream cheese sourdough

peanut butter and jelly. apples and cheddar. chocolate milk shakes and fries. these are the three iconic sweet savory duos from my american childhood.

as i’ve had the opportunity to travel and try new foods in the past 10 years, i’ve discovered a variety of other iconic sweet savory duos: tahini and date spread in israel, matcha and red bean in asia, guava and cream cheese in latin america — the inspiration behind this lovely loaf.

guava is a small tropical fruit, with a light green waxy exterior and a soft, seeded, pink interior, with a texture similar to a soft pear. guava paste tastes kinda like strawberry jam with a hint of pear, and is usually sold in rectangular brick form. thankfully, this makes it way easier to cube.

the savory from the cream cheese beautifully counteracts the sweetness from the guava, all of which is encompassed in a soft, fluffy bread.

best enjoyed on its own as a dessert, snack, or breakfast. be prepared to audibly react to the deliciousness. don’t sleep on this pro-tip: makes for an amazing base for french toast after a couple of days.

notes

i use king arthur bread flour, trader joe’s all purpose, bob’s red mill rye, and farmer ground flour einkorn. i got guava paste from food bazaar, but it’s also available on amazon.

please adjust your levain and bulk times for when your kitchen is colder or warmer, about 1 hour more during the winter and 1 hour less during the summer.

i’ve included a video of the lamination technique, using @fullproofbaking’s lamination method.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
bread flour45%
all purpose flour45%
einkorn* flour5%
rye flour5%
water80%
salt2.5%
levain22%
guava paste30%
cream cheese30%
steptime
levain build7 hours
bulk rise8 hours
folds3 folds
cold proof14 – 18 hours
bake45 minutes

*can sub einkorn for whole wheat

guava cream cheese sourdough

a generous nod to, and bread interpretation, of the beloved latin american pastry, pastelitos de guayaba.

formula

levain build
  • 20 g levain
  • 20 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 80 g water @ 85-90°F
dough formula
  • 200 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 200 g king arthur bread flour
  • 20 g bob's red mill rye flour
  • 20 g einkorn flour
  • 345 g water @ 90-95°F
  • 100 g levain
  • 9 g sea salt
  • 7 g additional water
laminated mix-in
  • 130 g cream cheese cubed
  • 130 g guava paste cubed

method

11 pm: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula and stiff starter method.
[next morning] 7 am: autolyse
  • in a separate large bowl, mix all flours together.
  • slowly add the water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
7:30 am: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough, and pour additional water over it to help the salt absorb. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • measure out the ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix using the pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes. target final temperature should be 78 degrees.
7:37 am: bulk fermentation
  • this dough bulks for about 8 hrs during spring/fall, longer if your kitchen runs cool or during winter, and shorter if your kitchen runs warm or during the summer.
  • this dough needs 3 stretch and folds, plus a round of lamination to incorporate the guava paste and cream cheese after the 1st fold, spaced about 45 minutes apart if possible. alternatively, you may also perform coil folds, at about the same cadence.
9 am: lamination
  • cut cream cheese and guava paste into cubes of equal size, around 3/4 to 1 inch.
  • perform lamination by first stretching dough like a pizza crust, and then spreading cream cheese and guava chunks evenly across the dough. fold into a rectangular shape.
3 pm: shape
  • i like to shape these like boules. stretch and fold the dough onto itself, rotating in a circular motion like you are doing a regular stretch and fold.
  • when it resembles a fist, flip it over onto itself. flour the top lightly, and then use both hands to drag the bottom about 6 inches to build in tension. this should result in a spherical, ball-like shape.
3:05 pm: proof
  • lightly flour a lined bannetone or proofing baske. gently transfer the dough seam side up to the bannetone. cover with a plastic bag, and put in fridge overnight for 14-18 hrs.
[next morning] 5:30 am: preheat
  • place dutch oven with lid on into the oven. pre-heat oven to 495°F for an hour.
6:30 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test. remove bannetone from fridge.
  • flip dough out of bannetone onto a cut piece of parchment paper.
  • scoring is tricky with this loaf because of the lumpiness of the cream cheese and guava paste. i keep it simple with this loaf with just a single, vertical slash length wise, about 1/8" deep, and 1/4” away from both edges.
6:30 am: bake
  • transfer scored dough to dutch oven. decrease temperature to 485°F. with the lid on, bake for 30 minutes. then, decrease to 475°F and take the lid off. bake for another 15-20 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a medium brown with this loaf).
9:30 am: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.
turmeric onion sourdough

turmeric onion sourdough

venturing into the unknown world of mix-ins and non-flour/water/salt ingredients has always intimidated me. i get nervous about the crumb closing, or the additional ingredients weighing the dough down, or the dough becoming way too sticky.

i didn’t approach experimentation as a way to be creative, as a way to keep developing my craft, a way to learn more about sourdough. i was more nervous about messing up a few times.

i let these thoughts hold me back from trying a bunch of new, fun things — until this year 🙂

the inspiration behind this loaf comes from a baker i really admire in this regard, @fullproofbaking. her beautifully curated, colorful instagram feed showcases many, many unique flavor combinations, the kinds that i’m always dying to try, but scared to.

when i saw this loaf on her feed, it gave me the final push to adapt and bake this yellow, punchy turmeric onion sourdough. this bread is soft, fragrant, and carries so much flavor on its own. i’d recommend eating it plain, the same day it’s baked, untoasted.

here’s to doing all the things that scare us — especially (i’d like to think) if the thing that scares us involves baking lovely, delicious things into bread.

notes

don’t skip the lamination step — it builds strength and yields a wonderful open crumb and soft, light texture. for lamination pointers, check out the video in my guava cream cheese recipe.

you could use oil instead of butter to sautee the onions, but i’m partial to butter (self explanatory).

as always, tweak levain and bulk times for when your kitchen is colder or warmer. for me this means closer to 9 hours in the winter, and 7 hours in the summer.

baker’s percentage & basic timetable

the percentages for water and flour only account for the final dough build, and do not include the levain formula build.

ingredientbaker’s percentage
bread flour65%
all purpose flour25%
whole wheat flour10%
levain 25%
water78%
salt2.5%
turmeric powder0.7%
caramelized onion25%
steptime
levain build8 hrs
bulk rise8 hrs
folds 3 folds
1 lamination
cold proof12 – 16 hrs
bake45 – 50 min

tumeric onion sourdough

flavorful savory loaf with caramelized onions, sporting a brilliant yellow hue

formula

levain build
  • 20 g levain
  • 80 g water @ 85-90°F
  • 20 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 80 g king arthur all purpose flour
dough formula
  • 260 g king arthur bread flour
  • 100 g king arthur all purpose flour
  • 40 g king arthur whole wheat flour
  • 3 g turmeric powder (1.5 tsp)
  • 342 g water @ 90-95°F
  • 10 g fine sea salt
  • 100 g ripe starter
lamination
  • 100 g caramelized onions (200 g raw)

method

8 am: feed levain
  • refresh your starter using levain build formula, and stiff starter method: reserve 20 g of levain, discard the rest, and add in water. mix thoroughly with spoon, or hands. then add the flours, mixing thoroughly again until all flour is absorbed.
8:30 am: prepare onions
  • dice raw onions. melt 1 tbsp butter into saute pan, and cook onions on low heat for about 20 minutes, or until they are golden/caramel color. make sure there is minimal crowding in the pan. let cool completely.
3 pm: autolyse
  • in a separate large bowl, mix all flours and tumeric together.
  • slowly add water, mixing with a rubber spatula, making sure to incorporate the water into the flour well, stopping when all the flour is hydrated. let sit, covered, for 30 minutes.
3:30 pm: mix
  • sprinkle salt evenly over autolysed dough. incorporate gently by folding dough over a 2-3 times.
  • then, measure out ripe starter, and add to bowl.
  • mix using the pincer method, for about 6-7 minutes. target final temperature should be 78 degrees.
3:37 pm: bulk fermentation
  • this dough bulks for about 8 hrs during spring/fall, longer if your kitchen runs cool or during winter, and shorter if your kitchen runs warm or during the summer. 
  • this dough needs 3 stretch and folds, and a round of lamination after the first fold to incorporate the onions, spaced about 45 minutes apart if possible. alternatively, you may also perform coil folds, at about the same cadence.
11:30 pm: shape
  • slowly transfer dough from bowl on to lightly floured surface, so it lays out in a rectangular shape. at this point, feel free to use your favorite shaping method. lately, i've been using a simple one: gently grab two horizontal ends and tug. fold the sides onto itself, so it looks like a taquito. then, grab the top and roll it in the other direction, like a burrito.
11:35 pm: proof
  • lightly flour a lined bannetone/proofing basket or generously flour an unlined one. gently transfer the dough seam side up to the bannetone. cover with a plastic bag, and put in fridge for 12-16 hrs.
[next morning] 10 am: preheat
  • preheat oven to 495°F and place a 5-6 qt lidded dutch oven inside.
11 am: score
  • dough is proofed when it passes the finger dent test.
  • sprinkle coarse corn meal on the bottom (optional), and flip out onto a cut sheet of parchment paper
  • using a lame, score length wise, about 1/8" deep, and 1/2" away from both edges. sometimes, i optionally add a leaf design as well.
11:05 am: bake
  • slowly and carefully lift the parchment paper with the dough into the hot dutch oven. decrease temperature to 475°F. bake for 30 minutes with the lid on.
  • take the lid off, and bake for another 15-20 minutes, or whenever the crust turns the color you like it (i go for a caramel brown for this loaf, or whenever the ears look brown).
2 pm: slice & enjoy
  • let this loaf cool on a wire rack (or something else that allows the air to circulate) for at least 2 hours before slicing.